mfg

Is there anyone local that you think would treat you fairly on the exhaust/ rear cross install?…..Pretty straightforward jobs for someone with a lift.

That’s it!… The spring pressure

The inch pound force necessary to rotate the drive pulley of a Paxton supercharger is in direct relation to the……?……. on the drive ball assembly.

Your ‘91 is probably the most perfected of the GM chassis Avantis… Truly gorgeous vehicle!

Good question for Lew, the forum administrator.

Good old Massachusetts has always insisted on passenger side lower corner Dwight.

God bless.

Wow!… Very interesting!

Yes a ‘name’ blower rebuilder said 5 lbs……using stock tension spring on arm.

Seven is a tad high!

With a factory ‘top mount’ Paxton Supercharger installation (ala R2 Hawk), belt slippage usually begins to occur at a blower pressure of …?… psi. 1) three….2) five …..3) seven….or….4) nine

That’s where Studebaker put it… but you may have an issue putting it there if your State requires a vehicle inspection sticker be placed at that location!

Wow! you went through heck on that lower shock mount…. but kept swinging until you resolved the issue… Well done!!

I use a really thin oil or a bit of ATF on the moving parts

I run the plastic headlamp covers on my ‘63 for general use, and save a set of NOS glass for?? The plastic covers are the same diameter as the glass… although the original glass covers may be thicker. The gasket should fit around the circumference of the cover. With the four holes in the gasket lined up with the four slots in the plastic (or the glass) covers. The gasket should not be on the outside of the chrome retaining ring.

Folks seem to really like the newer fuel injection bolt on fuel injection systems.. But if a worn out original Carter AFB is driving you crazy, a brand new Edelbrock 500 or 600 CFM carb is a drop on and hard to beat!

I was speaking about the early Stude type SW tachs…. Not sure about later ones!

Nope Mel… has to come apart… but that isn’t too difficult if you place it face down on table and carefully pry the crimped down outer chromed retainer up…. Then the retainer, seal, and glass can be removed.

I’m convinced… pedal location is FINE!!

Yes… that was the magazine road testers results!

With the A/C off and in good tune ( and, as you say, a light foot) I would have guessed that… however, the magazine road testers said different!

According to a (then) major auto magazine, a new Studebaker Avanti equipped with R1 engine, auto trans, p/s, and air conditioning…..In ‘normal’ driving, averaged …..?….. miles per gallon of gasoline. 1) 10-12…..2) 13-16…...3) 15-18…..or…..4) 17-22

I’d guess minor door striker, hood latch and deck lid adjustments were done on Avantis during production… but as we all know it’s impossible to bend/twist fiberglass parts the way metal items can be ‘tweaked’.

Yes… I’ve driven a few stick shift Lark types with suspended pedals and haven’t ever felt the clutch/brake pedals were in an awkward position…. I believe the driver’s height, weight, and seat position have a lot to do with this issue…….Also, period Studebaker steering wheels, on models other than the Avanti, were somewhat large in diameter.

Just an awesome historic vehicle!!! And YES Nels….. Mr Carroll felt the pedals were too far to the left of steering column for his comfort….… May I ask… do you notice that as you drive your Daytona?