mfg
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Posts posted by mfg
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6 hours ago, Leo B said:
The problem was that the Power Steering pump leaked from the central seam of the pump and the pump got empty and the Power Steering do not work after I put in new oil (STP Steering Oil). I haven't opened anything yet. I will repair the pump anyway. It seems to me that the oil is not circulating.
I'm convinced that the pump can break down without oil, but does the lack of oil damage also other parts?
Lack of p/s fluid would not harm the other items in the system, but would be very detrimental to the pump itself if car were driven for extended period with belt on.
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Once again…. a very special Avanti with an attractive price!
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If your mechanic is familiar with the workings of older vehicles, especially the power steering systems used on similar year Ford Motor Company vehicles, he should not have any problem diagnosing and repairing the Studebaker Avanti power steering system……
Purchasing and supplying your guy with a reprint of the ‘63-‘64 Stude Avanti factory workshop manual would be a big help to him… Best of luck…. Ed
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7 hours ago, r1lark said:
If you drilled out the '61/'62 bellhousing as Ed suggests, you could use either an early T10 or the later T10. I guess that is "either direction".
Paul, I believe what Dwight actually means is that a person can install a ‘63-‘64 Stude T-10 behind a ‘61-‘62 clutch housing….. but a ‘ 61-‘62 Stude T-10 cannot be installed behind a ‘63-‘64 clutch housing… and I agree with him!
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To A0136…. Thanks much for posting the pics…. You have certainly made clearer what I was trying to get across!
Best of luck with your ‘59!…Ed
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3 hours ago, A0136 said:
I have the McCulloch set up (Pulleys and bracket) with an SN Paxton on a 59 lark.
Nice!
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9 hours ago, Nelson said:
Interesting. Might be fun to try one on a Lark. Kick down would be an easy install but I guess you would need to plug the pressure limiting or over rev control hole.
I run the McCulloch setup on my ‘55 President Speedster without the kickdown connected…. I down shift to second overdrive when I need more ZIP!!!
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5 hours ago, r1lark said:
False, because the VS at least requires a kickdown switch and wiring to be adapted that the Lark didn't use.
Would disagree here with “ false”…. The two units directly interchange… the installation of a kickdown switch for the Lark is a good, but not mandatory, idea!
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1 hour ago, Nelson said:
Also the pulley is displaced further from the Main body than the Paxton so the belts wouldn’t line up..
Although it appears that way, the supercharger pullies on both the ‘VS’ and the ‘SN’ units both run in the same plane.
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1 hour ago, Nelson said:
A driver, five balls, output bearing, two outer races, maybe the scroll housing and impeller.
You’ve ‘hit’ the eight key pieces, but need to leave out the ball driver, scroll, and impeller.
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5 hours ago, r1lark said:
I'll say #4, eight parts because I think there are 5 balls, plus the ball driver, and two races. (if the output shaft surface is damaged, that would be another item to replace.)
Paul you are correct with EIGHT… however, you need to include the output shaft as a definitive part of the assembly, whereas the ball driver is not.
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Good going Leo!… that makes perfect sense!
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It’s always amazed me how Studebaker parts are so adaptable to different situations… if one only takes the time to look!….Especially since the last Stude parts department closed some fifty odd years ago!!!
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8 hours ago, Leo B said:
I would think that when the car is stationary, the engine is running, the gear is on and the clutch is in the bottom, then the tight pivot bearing would wear looser.🤔
Me too….. however on the Jeep I mentioned I ended up pulling the engine… at least Studes use a bushing, while some vehicles use a sealed ball bearing pilot that sometimes goes south!
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On a ‘63 Avanti powered Lark R2, a McCulloch VS supercharger taken from a ‘58 Packard Hawk would be a simple ‘bolt on’ replacement for a damaged Paxton SN supercharger (after clocking scroll housing)……True?
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The most common failure in a Paxton ‘SN’ supercharger is a failed planetary drive…
This can involve as many as …..?….. parts.
1) two…..2) five…..3) seven…. or…..4) eight
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4 hours ago, Dwight FitzSimons said:
How so? Please explain.
ANSWER!….. The ‘61-‘62 Stude V8 four speed clutch housing was originally created by modifying the ‘58-‘64 Ford pattern Stude V8 clutch housing……
Although the holes to mount up the ‘63-‘64 Ford pattern four speed trans would need to be drilled and tapped to accommodate the later transmission, the ‘61-‘62 clutch housing has the same bosses and machined surface as the later ‘63-‘64 housing.
A bit extreme?… of course… However, IN A PINCH IT WOULD INDEED WORK!!!!
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2 hours ago, A0136 said:
False. The 61 bell housing would need a 61-62 Stude T10. Or the 64 T10 would need a 63-64 bell housing.
Sorry, the answer to this puzzler is TRUE!
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10 minutes ago, Leo B said:
Very good point. Tightness can occur when the pilot bearing is tapped into place. When replace the pilot bearing, for checking, I could make a test shaft that would be exactly the same size as the shaft of the gear box. Not a difficult thing.👍
Good thought…. and sometimes dried up or gummy old grease at pilot bearing can cause an annoying drag on input even with pedal at full travel.
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Someone converting a Studebaker Avanti from automatic to manual transmission could utilize a ‘61 Stude V8 four speed clutch housing and a ‘64 Stude four speed T-10 transmission…..True?
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On 5/27/2024 at 8:05 AM, Leo B said:
I will remove the transmission and check the alignment of the Bell Housing. It is now installed according to the alignment of the dovel pins and all the surfaces are clean, but it may be wrong if Bell Housing has been replaced or installed without checking alignment. I'll tell you how wrong it is (if it is).
Could possibly be a tight pilot bearing causing input shaft to drag…. I owned an ‘89 Jeep Wrangler that had that problem…with same symptoms.
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Sorry Geoff… Stacey is indeed correct at approx 20 lbs!
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6 hours ago, r1lark said:
Don't know if there is any real right or wrong to this. I've found that (on Larks at least, haven't had an Avanti yet) there are a lot more places for wear on the suspended pedal clutch linkage. I have one 'thru the floor' clutch linkage car ('54 Regal 4-door sedan) and several Lark suspended setups, but I think I prefer the under the floor setup better.
I'm sure to the buying public it was a big improvement at the time................and of course a 'thru the floor' clutch would look pretty stupid on a "modern" sports car like the Avanti.
Anyway, I'll say FALSE because of the increase in the number of wear points.
I, for one, agree with you… the earlier clutch linkage setup is all but unbreakable, while the later ‘modern’ setup simply did not age very well.
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The ‘suspended pedal’ clutch linkage, introduced by Studebaker on the ‘61 Larks and later on the Avantis, was a big improvement over the old pre-61 Stude passenger car clutch linkage……True?
First Avanti I Ever Saw!
in Avanti Pub
Posted
Great story Michaelb….and I believe that all of us Avanti owners have had that ‘stopped in our tracks’ moment when we viewed our first one! …. Ed