StudeNorm
-
Posts
236 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by StudeNorm
-
-
I had to replace a couple of studs on my car. They were splined shaft studs. It sounds like your stud is spinning where the press in splines on the shaft should be gripping the hub. If this is the case hope that it is the splines that are worn and the new stud will still press into the hub. If your studs are not the splined type then replacing with the splined type shouldn't be a problem.
-
You say it came as a "kit" so did it come with the correct HD starter or does it have the standard duty starter?
-
So I just heard Steve Miller was "Going to Mexico" in his '53 Studebaker. Possibly already mentioned here but I am on my BlackBerry so can't check. I found that kind of cool, nevertheless.
-
This may be something I will look into when we get there. It would be really nice to find a rebuilt carb for my R2 while I am there but I won't hold my breath. I would be willing to swap it on the spot. We will have to see what kind of budget we are bringing across the border.
-
I had a look the other day and could not find a number. It had an embossed ND on the back center line. Take your old one to a knowledgeable auto-electric shop and they may also have one on their shelf.
-
I installed a 60 amp from a Toyota in mine. It was a bolt-in and is set up as a one-wire system. I left the old regulator in place and "cleverly" wired the original connections around it so under casual inspection it still looks stock. It was also CASO priced right at $85.00 Canadian.
-
Normally a fluctuating needle will indicate a pooched regulator. This can also spike the voltage of your system and damage some other components but I doubt it in this case. I replaced my alternator with a one-wire 60 amp system from a Toyota. It has a built in regulator, was essentially bolt-in and it looks almost stock.
As the others said, you may have a blown in-line fuse to the radio. Also, as Paulie said, check (ALL) your grounds...
-
Thanks for all this info, Joe. My R2 is mostly stock right now but as the car has a number of cosmetic changes it will never be "stock original". For this reason I would not be averse to making modern upgrades to the drivability of the car. After the last dive into the carb it has sorted out quite nicely but still there is nothing as good as a well engineered FI system, so that will always be an option I don't mind taking.
I have about a years worth of waiting to do to before my new digs are ready for moving into so I really don't want to start any more projects before I get resettled. I will be trailering the car to Tacoma "as-is" and see how it fares in the SDC judging. This will give me a big heads up on what I need to do to it once I retire, move and finally have the time and space to tear into it. My wife will be joining me in Tacoma thus the need to tow it. Our truck has AC and a big, comfy interior and the suspension is not a super stiff set up like the Avanti.
This has been an interesting exercise and now I need to have the car keep it together for a bit so I can drive and enjoy it for the rest of the summer. Failing passenger power window mechanism and all...
The pic shows the float angle when a valve seat backs out in the carb. You can also see where I missed threading the gasket onto the carb hat mounting stud. Late nights in Norm's Garage...
Later. Or maybe not as this thread may soon be closed.
-
Back from "holidays"... I need to get back to work so I can relax a bit. Clearing out a small forest with only a chain saw was not easy! I am sure I carried out about 8000 lbs of logs by hand.
So I pulled the carb last night and took the top off. I found my problem right away and I am a bit humbled but must say the problem was me... It seems I didn't tighten down the new Daytona style valve seats enough and the assemblies started backing out. This resulted in the floats closing the valve and shutting off fuel flow when the bowls were nearly empty. I am not sure how I missed that but have a sneaking suspicion that rebuilding the carb at one in the morning might have had something to do with it. Oh well. Lets just say lesson learned.
I took it for a quick test drive and backed out of the throttle at a solid buck twenty. It starts and idles nice but I still get an occasional wiff of fuel so may need to give it a quick once over again. Never seems to end.
So now on to my latest issue. I had the windows rolled down while I was away and when I was on my test drive I tried rolling up the passenger window... No go. When I got home I had to give it a bit of a pull to help get it moving so I may not be opening it again soon. At least not for a year or so.
Thanks for the EFI info, Avanti 83. Since my latest rebuild seems to have fixed my problem I am hoping that I can keep the car together and drivable until we get moved into our new home next year where I will have a "proper" shop waiting for me. That was the reason for clearing the trees.
Later.
-
When I ordered floats from Daytona I very specifically said they were for a pressurized carb. They replied no problem and sent me a set of floats. I installed them a year ago and now I seem to be having float problems. It will be a week and a bit before I get home to work on this issue but we will see then.
-
Thanks, Gunslinger. I took a look at Summit and noticed pretty much all the FI systems said 'not for forced air systems'. Probably something to do with needing a 2 bar mass air sensor, or some such thing. I did see a bolt on FI system being installed on a turbo'd SBC on one episode of "Engine Power" but something says Cubic Dollars for that system. Being the CASO that I am I will have to do a bit more research first. As for quick turn-around... I am north of the border and would love to send my carb to Dave T or Jon M or Mr. Erb but I am not sure it would make it through all the hoops and back in time for Tacoma so now I have decisions to make. Unfortunately I am away on 3 weeks holidays starting tomorrow, hence the reference to packing the trailer. I have a new 1406 Edelbrock carb that I am considering modifying for pressure but that won't happen until I get back. I love high maintenance cars!!!
-
So I found some time between making pickled eggs and packing the trailer... I re-installed the ballast resistor and went for a drive. The car acted great, but it was still cold. Drove down the hiway and through the river valley and all was OK. Drove back and as I was entering the valley my spidey senses were going off. This didn't feel good. As I tried to drive up out of the valley the car started chugging and losing power to the point of I had to drop into second before I got to the top.
I crawled it back in my garage and noticed(!) it wouldn't even rev up. I pushed it to get some revs and it back-fired big time so I shut it down. I immediately popped the hood and removed the carb hat. Gave it two shots on the throttle while viewing with a light and there was NOTHING! No fuel from accel pump. Carb was dry. Pulled the filter off at carb side and got a gush of fuel. Put the filter end in a bottle and cranked the engine. It started right away and I got 5 ounces of fuel in about 5 seconds at idle. Pump works. Hooked everything back up and started car. Climbed on fender to get a good look down the throat and noticed a strange sight. There was fuel dribbling into the throat on the right side and nothing on the left. Revved it up and more showing up on the right but still nothing on the left. Shut down and tried to see if any accel pump action. None. Seems the left side of the carb has a stuck closed float. What? MY Carb is POOCHED.
Anybody got a bolt on FI system for the R2? I want one!
Thanks for listening to this long drawn out saga.
-
It has been offered for awhile. I renewed using this rate 2 years ago. My expiry is 2021.
-
The thin "sheet metal" speed nuts come in a variety of sizes. Head to your local parts store and buy the size you need. I had to do this when I installed the script on the back of mine. Be very careful when you install them. Barely tight enough to stop any movement is all you need...
-
I have to agree with mfg that a filter before the pump is a good idea. I am not certain how to fit it between the end of the steel line and the pump but when I get some time (there is that word again) I might see about installing a stainless line in behind the rad and routing it back up to the pump. Still haven't changed out the coil and might not get to it until I get back from a 'working' holiday starting Friday and returning for the last week of July.
Three weeks away from the car is going to be tough but I need it in order to lay the groundwork for the new shop I will be building at our retirement property. Later...
-
Coil may be the easiest fix to try. I will install the original with the ballast resister and see where it gets me... Thanks.
-
Brakes, at the wheel calipers.
-
I remember something later about that boat that stated it was decommissioned due to the salt water corroding the manifolds and water jackets. It had a salt water pick-up cooling system rather than a sealed glycol system. Maybe 40 year old memories failing me again...
-
OK, so I am back from the far north.
Fuel tank line has been changed years ago for a clear TYGON style so no chance of crud coming form there. I installed new filter and drove to a small gathering of Stude folks last weekend. The car ran OK on the way but started stumbling on the way home. Maybe 10 miles on new filter. Got home and pulled filter. No crud in this one so replaced and tried to get to a car show this weekend. Made it maybe 5 miles and stumbling started again. It is a pulsing type miss.One secong of smooth followed by about a second of missing cylinders followed again by a second of good, etc. until it finally starts to run mostly on missing cylinders. It is worse the more I put my foot into it such as climbing a steep hill.
This has me stumped... Do I modify the 1406 carb I just received to accept blower pressure and the 3507S carb hat or should I replace the dizzy with the Delco type I gave a minor rebuild to? So long as I get it done before Tacoma, it seems all I need is time, and right now that is starting to become a rare commodity.
-
A bit expensive for me to ship north of the border but nice looking and good quality if they are what you want on your car. Your choice.
-
I am going to address the fuel line at the tank when I return from the north this weekend. I have replaced the rubber lines at the fuel pump. The tank itself may be next. The particles I am seeing are very fine and blow away when the absorbant mat I dump them on dries out. Later.
-
When I installed my track bar bushings the outer axle rubber on the left wanted to migrate either inside or outside the bracket. All the rest are stable. I knew it was outside the bracket when I started hearing the bar chattering against the axle mounting plate. Luckily it never fell off. I tried everything to stabilize it but it kept moving. The only thing I didn't do was replace the bracket with new. I have found a fix but it is not factory. Any thoughts as to what caused this and what I needed to do to correct it? I got my bushings from SI. Thanks.
-
I almost want to install a Diesel style pre-filter in the line before the fuel pump. I will see what I can come up with.
-
I'm baaaack.
Took the fuel filter off and dumped out a pile of crud. I would post a pic but this site has me limited to 700K file size (whaaat?). It seems those in-line filters really do work as advertised. As stated earlier I will pick up a new filter on the morrow and fire the beast up when installed.
I am now on my phone and don't have the easy editing capability for reducing file size. So does this mean if I want to post new pics I have to delete previous photos?
Edited: pic posted.
Once again, later, and thanks...
Upgrade 40 amp alternator to 60-80 amps
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted · Edited by StudeNorm
low rpm energizing insert
I got it from a local auto electric parts supplier called Cooper Brothers here in Edmonton. They took one look at the Avanti unit and buddy walked to the back and came out with the Toyota job. Memory not so good as it used to be but I believe he said around 1985 Toyo. He said this should do the trick. He was right. He didn't check numbers or ask for applications, he just knew his stuff. The mounting holes lined up perfect with the existing brackets.
I had to swap pulleys and install a jumper on two of the terminals, as per Bob's Studebaker Resources pages, to make it a one wire charger, then reroute the wires from the old regulator so as to retain said reg on the firewall and it was a done deal. I did not do anything to the amp guage circuit. The guage shows fairly high output if I have to crank for a longer than normal time and draw down the battery but it settles down and works as advertised once the batt is back up to charge. It has been in 4 years now with no problems.
I have read about the alternator not energizing until it reaches 1500 or so rpm but have never had that issue occur with this unit. When I start it the ammeter always shows a positive output even if the engine is already warmed up and sits on low idle right away.
Looking at Rockauto it seems like the Camry alts have the correct mounts so you might want to go to your local Autozone or Napa or? and see what they can pull out for you. Good hunting.