StudeNorm
-
Posts
236 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by StudeNorm
-
-
Nice pics. Now I can see what my car looked like out of the factory. My build sheet says Avanti gold. I expect it also had a Fawn interior.
My car was completely changed to a Chrysler metallic red. They did a heck of a job of covering all the original paint including engine compartment, under body, inside doors and every other place I have been able to see into. It also has a custom interior of black leatherette with burgundy inserts in the seats.
I like the little tool tray under the hood of the car that is pictured above.
Is there a build sheet that goes with this car?
-
I just was reading a sales brochure for a new Nissan Sentra. It stated that the compression ratio of the standard engine was 9.9:1 and it would run on regular fuel. I believe the lowest ratio in an R-engined Stude was 9.25:1 and Studebaker recomended high-test or 102 octane gas in all the R-engined cars. Kind of shows the difference between then and now as far as engine tuning and management goes.
I personally wouldn't use E-85 in a carburated engine without doing a lot of research and testing and also changing to most if not all modern components. I am thinking of replacing the 2bbl carb on my Lark with a Holley 350cfm unit but until then I will be using all the tricks I can find on these forums to keep things going using the parts that came with my cars. And I still won't be using E-85.
The problem with alcohol is that it likes to evaporate. In a modern car the fuel system is closed and pressurised. Evaporation is not a factor. A carburated car has an open system and the fuel evaporates quite readily, especialy out of a hot engine. The more alcohol, the faster the evaporation. Do you really want to use E-85? Just sayin'...
-
I have been mixing and matching oils in my cars for over 40 years. I have never had an engine fail or even show signs of excess oil consumption. My Nissan Sentra used no oil between changes and had over 300K miles on it when the car started failing around the engine. My 300TE Mercedes Benz actually started using LESS oil once I started blending its' oil. I also advise people to use the BEST filter they can find. I personally use Quaker State, WIX or even John Deere if I can get. So my short answer also is "Yes, you can mix oils"...
-
I was reading issue 144 of the AOAI magazine last night and the article regarding STP gave the reason it is required. It has the lubricants (mostly zinc) necessary to keep the flat tappet cam followers from wearing out the cam lobes. Zinc is needed in older cars when oils that don't have ZDDP in them are used. Some Diesel, racing and specialty oils still have a high enough level of zinc to provide lubrication but most modern car oils do not. STP contains zinc.
Modern car engines do not require the same level of zinc as they use roller style cam followers.
-
I had similar (not exactly the same, though) mirrors installed on my 1963 R2 when I bought it last summer. They have a part number embossed on the inside surface. The owner could not tell me anything about the mirrors at the time.
A mounting bracket was installed on the fiberglass with 2 screws and the main body attached to the bracket with a single screw in the middle. The mirrors were mounted on the fender about in line with the windshield edge of the hood. The car had a major restoration done in 1986 and then a minor repaint about 10 years ago. I was lucky when I replaced them with Stratovues as the old mounting holes were either utilized with the new mirrors or they were fully covered by the base.
I think the Stratovue mirror is the sexiest mirror to put on an Avanti as it continues the theme of no straight lines and all curves. My opinion and I'm sticking to it.
I will try to add a picture later of the old mirrors I removed.
-
Had a chance to check the wheels on my '63. The fronts are 215/65 R15 Eagles on 6" steel rims. The rears are 245/60 R15 Eagles on 8" steel rims. The rear offset is about 4.25" measured from the outside of the lip. They look like Ford rims with the larger lug nut but I could not find any identifiying marks. As stated earlier there are NO problems with rear end clearance and minimal rub when compressing the suspension while turning hard up front. Compared to the Larks the Avanti can handle a lot of wheel and tire modifications...
-
I bought my '63 R2 last summer with Eagle 245/60 15's on the back and 225/60 15's on the front mounted on as yet unknown steel rims. With the car being parked for the winter I simply haven't bothered to check...The rears have no problems with clearance. The fronts have a small fender rub during sharp turns going in and out of my driveway, which has a fairly severe slope at the entrance. It came with the original spare(!), which I would not drive on much further than the distance I could roll it. Essentially around the corner and to the nearest safe parking area...The doughnut spare sounds like not a bad idea.
In the past I have used 225/70 15's mounted on 6 inch Ford or Chrysler rims on the rear on Lark type cars but have run into major fender and steering hardware clearance problems trying to fit them up front. 205/70 or 75's are a much better fit and work OK on all four corners if you want to stick with one size only.
My father had 185/78(?) 15 Michelin X radials installed by the dealer when he bought his 1964 Daytona wagon in 1963. That was Studebaker's recommended size at the time. They fit the original 4.5 inch rim but the dealership advised him to retorque the lug nuts at least twice a year.
Norm
SDC member since 1973
-
SI catalogue lists them at $90 each. I am not sure if this meant each window or each set.
I guess it should be reasonable to request an estimate for how much a set would cost to produce and throw that number out. If one need the seals most will need both windows.
-
I was thinking of swapping the ring and pinion from a 3.31:1 tapered posi rear end for the ring and pinion from the 3.73:1 non-posi rear in my car now. This idea is just in the in-box and hasn't yet been researched as to feasability...
But then again if I install a T5 or T56 the 3.73's will be the gears of choice.
I find the 3.31:1 gears about the best compromise if you don't have OD. You will probably be happier with them.
Depends how you want to go.
-
If anyone can be persuaded to reproduce these seals please let us know on this forum. I will take a set.
In the meantime I have reconditioned all my door and window seals with mineral oil and so far they seem to be just a bit more pliable than when I got the car. I will have a better idea in the spring when I bring it back outside.
Trivia!...Racing Avantis
in Avanti Trivia
Posted
OK. This brings up another question...
I met a fellow from NYC who had a later model Avanti fully prepped for endurance road racing back in 1987 in Springfield, Conneticut. He had a body shop and had integrated a spoiler into the rear deck area. I saw the car and talked with the gentleman, but never heard anything more about his efforts. Did he actually ever race the car and did it perform the way he was hoping?
Somewhere I might even have his business card, but that will have to wait. Was it Ernie Loga???