StudeNorm
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Posts posted by StudeNorm
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Well what do you know? A few more filberts, some sticks and spider webs and the remains of a small blue bird... I won't even venture a guess. Interesting little excursion. I can't seem to get the scope to make the bend in the left trough so I have no idea what might be down that side. Mystery over.
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I guess I can answer this one myself. Since the car is up on the hoist I just stepped into the garage and had a look along the troughs. There is an opening about 6 inches from the back that is more than big enough to allow a critter to get into the void and start stock piling. I am now wondering what else may be in there... Time to get the boroscope out!
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Here is a weird one...
I noticed an object inside the right hog trough a while ago and when I tried to get it out I found it was too big to fit through the hole. I ended up breaking it apart to remove and it turned out to be a hazel nut or maybe filbert. The other night I found another. I wonder if they were dragged inside when they were small and green and as they dried out they expanded? Does that happen? This car is from southern California and was restored in 1985/6. I got it from the fellow who bought it from the restorer. There is no indication that the troughs are anything but original so this may be a mystery without a solution. Or is there another way into the troughs that I don't know about? Ideas?
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Early 'Vettes had the same shielding for the same reason... RF noise suppression.
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Ok, so you made me curious... When did Studebaker start doing that? I have the build sheet for my car (March 12, 1963) and it says it was sent to a town in California. It does not have a "B" suffix. Were the delivery destinations on the build sheets just sort of made up? Again, just curious...
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First full colour cover...
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If it was a 160mph speedo rescaled for a European sale it should go to 260kph.
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8 oz is right but don't ever try to put 1/2 a quart into that little reservoir...
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Did the factory do what a previous owner of my car did and install mudflaps? I still have them on the rear...
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Very good suggestion. Mine does that and I was going to address it when I pull the seats. Sounds like a simple cure. Thanks...
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You may actually want to see if the ignition set is correct for your car and then consider re-keying either that one (a fairly easy job) or have the new set keyed to the doors. Quite often the ignition set was replaced because either the locking tabs on the bezel broke off or the ignition itself rotated or pushed far enough back in the mount, or both, to contact the hot connector with ground and melting something critical. I am dealing with both these issues with mine but the "melting something critical" hasn't happened, yet. Lots of interesting sparks, though...
The most common replacement used a screw on style mounting bezel.
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If that is R-2353 did someone replace the front end sometime in the past with a square headlight panel? Looks pretty decent otherwise.
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Gotta go with Charlie on this one...
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Yup... I've heard the same comment. "Where's the grill? That looks stupid!" When I tell them that just about every NASCAR race car uses the same under-bumper air intake setup they usually just say "Sure, but at least they paint on a grill where it is supposed to be."
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Pierce Arrow?
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I just re-read the tranny mount post and StudeRich cleared it up quite nicely. L71 is the correct mount for your Avanti. L 71 or 71L was installed on my Lark but was wrong for that application so I needed to replace it with the L03 mount, which I found in a box of spare parts. Where the Avanti/Hawk mount came from on my Lark is anyone's guess. So now I have a spare Avanti mount. Won't fit my Avanti, though, since mine is a 4-speed...
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You are correct. The one not to use was L-71. I believe the thread noted the correct one. I am not sure about the stud length. I don't recall having a problem. If you have a decent amount of clearance from the steering gear and the firewall tunnel you should be ok.
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They do have numbers on them. I am not at home now or I would check and let you know which one NOT to use. Even thou they look almost identical they are not...There is a thread I started on the Stude Forum that answered the question about which one to use.
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I am sure you should have the correct transmission mount but if you somehow end up with the wrong one the tranny will not align easily and you will find that a different set of spacer/washers will be needed to get things to sort of fit. This is what I found on my most recent car when I tried removing the P/S valve and couldn't get the nut off the shaft, no clearance to the manifold, as fred88 says above. Luckily I found the proper spacer and the CORRECT tranny mount in a box of "spare parts" that I have been hauling around for the past 40 years and 5 moves. There is a reason for being a good pack rat...
Makes me wonder who the mechanic was that installed the tranny in the first place. Did he not have a manual? You pays your money and you takes your chance!
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The Agajanian overhead cam Indy engine...
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Mike,
I had to replaced both my manifolds (one had a broken stud and the other was broken in half at No. 7 exhaust port) and found that the original exhaust manifolds were the same as the stock left side from the sedans, of which I had a few lying on my parts shelf. At least they both fit without any problems. My car has the heat riser delete so the replacement studs used were the short shank version and were also not a problem.
If you use the heat riser valve it will require longer studs on one side and that is usually the right, or passengers side.
If you are like most owners and only drive your Avanti during the warmer months the heat riser system is not really required. Deleting the heat riser may cause the choke to take a few minutes longer to unload but if it is properly set and working OK it will be fine. A heat riser delete won't affect anything more and may even keep the carb a bit cooler during normal operations.
I haven't yet consulted the Authenticity Manual about this issue (heat risers and stock manifolds) but I expect there may be a reference in it so I recommend that if you don't already have that manual you should make the effort... and also make sure you have the Avanti shop and parts manuals, available from some of our vendors for very reasonable prices.
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The replacement Manual arrived and I must say the reinforcing that the fellows added sure did its job. The manual arrived in exactly the same condition that it was in when it was packaged up.
Thanks.
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I placed my order late and received the manual Wednesday. As above, my package was also beat up, and torn, but my manual was NOT fine... It had been bent in half to get it in my mailbox. The corners of the pages are rounded and there are numerous creases in the pages. I might try placing it under a couple of encyclopedias but I don't expect it to ever return to "coffee table" condition. If it was a car it would be a 'condition 2-3'. It just looks ratty! Great information, though...
rocker box mystery
in Avanti Pub
Posted
Meeses, shrews, voles, whatever found a convenient TEMPORARY home... Some of the stories you never hear.