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Update on the sway bar dilemma... SI sent me the installation instructions, and they worked for the most part for the center mounts. I actually ended up using some ratcheting bar clamps from my wood shop to get the clamps in place and aligned for the bolt. MUCH easier than the recommended screwdriver and pry into place.... The connections to the lower control arms were a completely different story.... After struggling with the clamps and screwdriver only to end up having the tab fall out of the slot due to prying force.... I pulled out a good old fashioned pipe wrench and the first one attached in less than 15min. The remaining connection required a ratchet strap to pull the sway bar to the control are so that I could then use the pipe wrench to finish it up. I have pictures posted on RQB 3616 FB Page @ https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100090777883233

Good point. Thanks

It depends on the boost levels of the supercharger. anything much higher than stock 4-5 lbs will slip the belts at higher RPMs. Serpentine belts are "grippier".

Don't Laugh too hard... The Compartment paint is VHT Engine Metallic - Titanium Silver Blue SP403 The Pink suspension highlights - VHT Engin Enamel - Hot Pink SP756

Ahhh- so that's the masonite peice... I have counted about 8off 1/8" shims at the outrigger mounts under the hogtroughs of my '18 Avanti II so I figured 2" is too much and would say False to the original question.

Before being donated to the Crawford Automotive/Aviation Museum, the last production Studebaker Avanti, R5643, was offered for sale to anyone willing to spend ……?…… 1) $60K…….2) $80K……3)100K….or…….$125K

Nice, interesting work!

Didnt like the way it felt so I decided to take it apart, bend tabs out of way and it comes apart easily, pull apart remove insulator, cleaned traces and contacts with 400 grit and back together

Thanks Brad. Was is more work than it was worth? Regular belts really work ok anyway?

Dave mentioned it being the same as a ‘62 Oldsmobile. Those probably aren’t readily available either.

The kicker diaphragm (not the bracket) is the same as some Pontiacs. Not sure what year(s).

The turn signal switch itself is located down the column nearer the floor. The cable runs to a bracket on the switch at the switch end, and to the lever mechanism under the steering wheel. You have to pull the wheel. There is no electrical part under the wheel like non-tilt cars except for the horn contact. It is the same as 63-65 GM Saginaw tilt wheels but the column itself is a Stude only part. After 65 they were totally different.

This is one setup I constructed. I used a Chrysler lower pulley and the waterpump pulley is grooved as it has to turn in the same direction. I think I used a Ford belt tensioner. It's been a few years...back in 2016.

Be Same!

Thanks

Check with Brad Bez. He has done this on several cars.

Thanks, I’ll give him a call next week.

No problem!….. And using modern electronics is a good idea.

Has anyone installed a serpentine belt system on an R2 with AC yet? Wanted to see if it was worth the trouble or not.

No ‘bites’?

Thanks everyone. A new kicker from Dave is on the way. I’ve also decided to go with a full electronic ignition and will hold on to the original parts.

I have a heater core and fan blower out of my 1963 R2.

I don’t know… I think I’ll keep calling these vehicles Avantis!… To me, a “1963 Product” just doesn’t sound right …. Be well!!

You may want to try Kellogg’s Applejacks Cereal….. ’A Bowl A Day Keeps The Bullies Away”!

Yes… the proper manifold would be the best setup.