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Avanti83

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Posts posted by Avanti83


  1. I looked over my pictures and Dick Steinkamp's write up and only see two. I drilled two holes to get at them and the CE hog troughs only have two holes in the rollbar bulkhead so until I see a picture or several of three bolts into the hog trough bulkhead, I sticking with 2 as the answer.


  2. 3 hours ago, TED DIMON said:

     

    Take the glovebox door to a good locksmith. They'll make you a key or change the tumblers to a new key, whatever they think is best. You could just pull the lock also, whatever you think is easier.


  3. 4 hours ago, studegary said:

    The comment; "...in the process of removing the engine from all of the computer controls..." bothers me.   The engine may not run depending on what has been removed.  Do you have the removed parts?  Can you describe what has been removed?  

    Good question Gary, I assumed he hadn't touched the computer setup yet. If he has, at a minimum, it will probably need a new carb and distributor.


  4. Several thoughts but first welcome back.

    Initially see if you can get it running. Fresh gas, you can drain the tank by removing the pipe plug from the tee in the gas line under the passengers seat. Then pull the plugs, clean them and before you put them back, see if the engine will turn over with the starter after you have added a small amount of Marvel mystery oil to the cylinders. If so, replace the plugs, hook up a timing light and see if you have spark. If you do, add a few gallons of fresh gas to the tank and try to start the engine. If it runs, then how well? If pretty good than check the brakes and emergency brake, if they are good let it warm up and then stop, change the oil and antifreeze.

    Now it should be close to driveable. If you can safely take it out then do so and see where you are.

    Once you have done this or the engine is frozen/won't run or the brakes are bad get back and we'll help you spend your money on alternatives.


  5. If you are interested in the car staying close to original, start a conversation with Jack Vines Packard V8 above about having your engine or a replacement rebuilt.

    Ir you don't care about original, get a recent Chevy LS with your choice of trans and put it in. Cheap performance and reliability.

    There are engine mounts to adapt the LS to the older SBC mounts used in the later Avanti's and programming is available to upgrade the original LS computer to be used in another vehicle.


  6. 2 hours ago, navye8 said:

    I might say that the only reason I used 700 was because it was setting on garage floor looking for a home. I think the 200R4 would be better because of smaller size or maybe a AOD

    My 83 was originally equipt with a 700R4 and it fit so there is room in the 63/64's I would think. I replaced it with a 200R4 witch, of course, fit better.


  7. 24 minutes ago, A83 said:

    Do you mind telling me the cost of the paint job I may be needing one soon.  I am getting estimates of $15000.I

     

    Thank you.

    That's probably in the ballpark for a complete strip and paint. The problem with painting an Avanti, or any old car - for that matter, is it's labor intensive and there are not many shops left that want to do one. There are just a lot of hours involved, I know because I did my 74 from strip to body work to paint to buffing. The cost of materials alone will probably run 20% of that if you just use quality materials and ordinary enamel or bc/cc colors with no high end pearls etc.

    Around here, one can usually find someone that will do it in their garage for about 1/3 to 1/2 of that but you need to know them quite well. You might talk to local folks that have had it done on their vintage rides. Asking at car shows is generally a good way but that's not available currently.

    If you can find a local Corvette club, you might get hold of the officers and ask who they might recommend on price vs quality.

     


  8. Don't forget that the GM overdrive transmissions listed above (non-electronic shift) need a TV cable connected to the carb linkage. That controls shift points and needs to be adjusted correctly to keep a healthy transmission.

    You can also use the newer e-series but you'll need a controller to handle the shifting, about $500 or so but there are a ton of those available in the parts yards.


  9. 1 hour ago, Paul K. said:

    Not sure if this is an Avanti Urban Legend but I heard that the earlier the Avanti II was, the better in regard to the frames. Apparently, Avanti Co. stored their frames piled up like firewood outside in the weather. The newer the Avanti II, the rustier and weaker the frames were. Of course the frames were cleaned up and painted before building cars but they were not stored properly. Also, I think later on they ran out of Lark convertible frames and welded in the X crossmember to standard frames. Not a big deal if the welding is good. On the earlier motor mount comment from anither poster,   I had a 74 Avanti that had the left motor mount area of the frame cracked. But I also had a 72, and a 76 with no issues in this area. 

    My 74 frame cracked in both motor mount areas of the frame. While most will probably blame the 400 SBC mine had a 350 as the OP didn't want the 400. It was due to missing washers under the nuts that made contact with the frame and resulted in point loading that caused the failure. One of the reasons I contend my 83 was much better is the higher level of assembly, fit and finish of the later ones.


  10. I agree with looking at fuel issues for starters but the other Issue I always look at when losing power under load is timing and advance. Be sure the plugs, points and wires are good and put a timing light on it to look at both initial and advance when it's warmed up.

    Also be sure the secondary's are opening and you have fuel from the accelerator pump. 


  11. 22 hours ago, TED DIMON said:

    I agree wholeheartedly!  Drilling holes and then trying to get the fasteners on from underneath would be too much for this old guy!  I already have the "II" emblem with broken pins.  Now I am looking for an "Avanti script" with imperfect pins.  I would hate to grind down the pins on a good emblem.

    It's going to be hard to get the emblem taped on without either seeing the tape and/or having it weakly affixed because of the small amount of tape used.

    What's wrong with leaving it off? I like the cleaner look of them removed from both of mine.


  12. 3 hours ago, Bweryarryo said:

    Thanks guys,wasjunk, can you tell me where to look for the flaming river one?

    This should give you everything you need to know. You can click through the different styles to see there complete line and there are a ton.

    https://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/products/c0002

    Once you have found what you want, you can shop model and price to see if there is a better option. There are also a number of others that build/offer columns, Google is your friend here.


  13. I'm still not convinced that an aftermarket one wouldn't be a good choice. While not OEM there's about 12 people in the world that could see the difference and it would have all new parts not ones over 50 YO. It should be pretty easy to connect as the Avanti's have a rag joint and the wiring terminates in a Chevy connector that could be adapted to about any harness.

    They are available in billet or plain metal and some don't have the key in the column also.


  14. Here's the 83 Fantomworks did. http://fantomworks.com/project/1983-studebaker-avanti-2/ You can see the Avanti with the bumpers gone.

    IIWM, I'd take Gary's suggestion and start with an 83 or older. The front panels are complete around the grill and lower front fenders whereas the 84 and up are missing a lot of fiberglass where the bumpers are located.

    I like where you are going so keep posting. I'm 77 retired and have been moding cars for years. The biggest problem you will face is getting discouraged. I have seen many projects started and then left festering as the work piles up. Be sure you are self-starting enough because there will be times there's very little light in the tunnel.

    I don't know your abilities so be sure you are calculating the real costs particularly paint and new interior. I can weld, fabricate and paint (amateur at best) but it keeps my costs inline.

    With all that said, Avanti and ask away. We're here to help and admire. 


  15. 13 hours ago, studegary said:

    Are you referring to a correct Studebaker Avanti radio or one of the Custom Autosound radios that your link takes me to?  I now see that you list a 1989 Avanti.  If that is the car in question, the dash has nothing to do with a Studebaker.  

    Agree with Gary. You can probably use a single DIN modern radio in your opening. Check with a decent audio like Crutchfield for dimensions. If they fit, the good news is you can have about any modern convenience that's offered in modern radios currently.

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