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Avanti83

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Posts posted by Avanti83


  1. Put yourself in N&A's position, they wanted to sell cars. They needed an engine that fit, was proven to work in the chassis and fit with minimum modifications and cost. What would you chose?

    It had to be the SBC, why - cause it fit. Not only was it already engineered into the frame and attached to the existing drivetrain but also came from it's fiberglass brethren that by now was establishing a performance image of it's own. So the afterglow of the performance of the vette could also shine on the Avanti.

    All the other options needed to be fitted into the car and either didn't have enough cylinders to stir the soul of buyers or were just bigger, heavier and under powered compared  to the Chevy.

    They had no other choice either engineering or financially wise.


  2. I will also add this thought as a separate post as it's the way I would go because it sounds like you want a dependable driver. The costs you are getting into are now in the range of dropping in a complete LS engine and trans combination. 

    Those setups are plentiful in wrecking yards, easily dropped into Avanti's and reprogramming the ECM is straight forward for the ones from a few years back.

    But you say I'm modifying an original car, Yup! but you are doing that with the conversions you are planning. Pull the original engine and trans - store it for posterity and drive happily.

    I'll now go back into duck and cover mode.


  3. If you are planning both conversions, which are not inexpensive, but worthwhile - two thoughts.

    1- Add a distributor that is controlled by the ECM, they are not plentiful for Studes but worth the investment.

    2 - Try the 3:31 and then decide if you need to upgrade to a higher number one. If you decide to change, positraction is a good investment if you don't have it. What you have will be better with the 2004R installed, I'll bet.


  4. 37 minutes ago, studegary said:

    Most anything will work to keep the dust off indoors.  I do not recommend a cover for outdoor storage.

    I tend to agree with Gary but there are times and circumstances that require one to do this so you need a "breathable" cover that won't trap moisture in theory. California Car Cover has a good reputation and I had one on my 39 Ford Coupe. It wasn't outside much but on those occasions it performed well. 


  5.  ( My other question is:  Let's say I was building a Stude engine hoping for R3 power, and I wanted to modernize the timing, what would be the best way to go? )

    Modify an electronic distributor to fit the R3 and pair up with a Holly, FAST or other EFI system that has a higher than 1 atm MAP sensor and let the EFI learn/control it's way to maximum performance. I know you can buy an electronic unit that will fit but I'd want the one that the EFI controls.


  6. Just to add to Brad's thoughts, I used the entire Nu-Relics power lift window system on my 74 Avanti with excellent success. Not inexpensive at $450 or so for the pair with switches and wiring but not much more than a total restoration of the old parts. Bought them from Bob Ziff.


  7. I suspect you know this because you have come this far but be sure that you have all the hinges and other parts, in good nick, that will effect fitment on the car and fitted prior to, hopefully prime, but most certainly paint as these bodies are pretty fragile toward nicks and scratches. 

    I edged my doors/body openings with paint and rehung them prior to final spraying. the hood and trunk I assembled after painting. The hood was worry-some but I have enough overhead space and lifting capacity to set it in position alone.

    Please post pictures when you're done, Love to see pretty-pretty Avanti's


  8. My guess is the wire is to actuate the brake light and probably works by providing a ground if the slider is moved if one chamber in the cylinder is low on fluid. The light is also an indicator of the parking brake not being fully released according to the manual. 

    When you pull the harness for the ECM you will find it is almost a stand alone harness. I don't remember what I did for the wire on the prop valve but I don't recall it being part of the ECM harness. I could be wrong as it's been a number of years. I could check but the 83 is in storage currently.

    I suspect that you are eliminating the ECM to get rid of the carb and dissy setup on the car. I replaced mine with a Holley FI setup and dissy and it runs well. Just remember you will need a different dissy if you replace the carb with a different one.

    Other than pulling a big arse snake out of the car, the job was pretty straight forward IIRC.

     


  9. 36 minutes ago, Footer said:

    I’m 6’5”, so I sit so high in most rigs the rear view mirror interferes with my view out the windshield. The only thing a low mirror does to me is block the view of the hood. I’ve thought about lowering the one in my 83. Make sure you get it where you want it when you glue on the new mount, that glue grabs quick!

    Excellent point. I'm 6'3" and the mount location in mine let's me adjust the mirror to where I like it. One size certainly doesn't fit all in these applications.

    I know how I fit in an Avanti, particularly head room, so you are really pushing the limit.


  10. Your isn't OEM as it's glued to the window so get a decent night/day mirror and move it up toward the top. Mine in my 74 is 4" down from the bottom of the window stainless trim to the center of the mount.

    To remove yours, take the screw out of the mount to remove the mirror and then remove the mount from windshield.

    BE VERY VERY CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING THE GLUED ON MOUNT AS YOU CAN DAMAGE THE WINDSHIELD. There are some Youtube videos on doing it.

    Am I shouting, YUP!!! it's important. I found the glue from the auto store did not do a good job of holding the mirror in my car no matter how much I cleaned so I used clear Gorilla Glue.

     

    aowEdj1bQmbaRHwlLIosydOAqO62BNowFkDEOqwo

    -n-XlB43vLn4rxetumDZP6czkTDG-qci2lSu6eG6


  11. Fuel and spark is where I'd start. If it runs well other than slow acceleration be sure you have the float bowl full and the boost reference to the fuel pump connected. 

    Usually, I start with the distributor. Check to see if you have advance and basic timing. Use a timing light.

    If spark check out it's probably fuel delivery under load, weak pump - air getting into fuel lines or a restriction somewhere in the fuel lines or fuel tank.

    BTW, welcome!!!


  12. As I dig through my photos, I did find some that indicate a pair of holes directly above gas pedal, which I filled.

    I finally found the originals owners son and asked him to see if his dad can recall if it came originally with the console. Hopefully, he's still around as he wasn't in great health a couple of years back.

    2v7bA8E.jpg


  13. 1 hour ago, Gunslinger said:

    According to the information I have, the center pull parking brake stated with RQB2325 in 1976.  In 1975 at RQB2263 they began using a Willys parking brake handle which I presume is a different handle or assembly mounted under the dash but the paperwork isn't clear on that.  

    While company paperwork can always be mistaken I would think anything on an Avanti II outside of those numbers could either have been issued paperwork-wise or modified after the fact. Avanti motors did some strange things and they didn't always get recorded or the documentation is unavailable or yet to be discovered.

    I'd like to get to the bottom of this if possible. Here are a couple of shots of the firewall, I have many more, where did the dash mounted e-brake go through the firewall during these years.

    IDfjPMj.jpg

    IjNRelC.jpg


  14. Skip

     I just went back through my paperwork that I received with RQB-2123 and the delivery date is 10/24/74 in South Bend, In. It looks like yours is the last. Why mine has the newer console will probably remain in doubt but it was returned to South Bend about a year after purchase to have the 400 truck motor replaced with a more car-like 350 which it had when I purchased.

    The console looks like an original install as there is no evidence of an under-dash e-brake being mounted. Probably never know but because mine now has the T-56 6-speed and your's is original, so the last one remains original.

    Bob


  15. Just found the same thing, First time I've seen that data during a search. Looks like Skip and I can discuss which is later, 2127 vs 2123 with the floor console e-brake. Interesting that 2136 has the old console.

    Our discussion started when I found out his didn't have the newer console and mine did. I know mine is factory as I bought it from the OP.

    Mine

    cgQKmPh.jpg

     

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