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brad

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About brad

  • Rank
    AOAI Forum Member
  • Birthday 04/04/1960

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  • Website URL
    http://bezautoalchemy.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Various
  • Interests
    Avanti's, Studebakers, any interesting vehicles, pets,family.....

Previous Fields

  • My Avanti
    1963

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  1. I have made retrofit cooling kits from hardware store plumbing supplies. Even on 63 Avantis with AC.
  2. https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/lifts-cranes-stands/engine-stands/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html I have done it and used this to support the engine. place the ends of the support on the lip just inside the fender line at the back of the engine, and support the engine by the back two intake manifold bolts. Then you can remove the transmission, and cross member and undo the exhaust and remove the bellhousing.
  3. brad

    AL-Mag Avanti!

    The only other thing I can think of is the oil pan timing cover filler.
  4. brad

    AL-Mag Avanti!

    Alternator housing?
  5. brad

    Avanti Horsepower!

    It was over 1100 actual dynamometer results. and he added more boost after that.
  6. brad

    Avanti Horsepower!

    4. I purchased some of the parts for an engine I'm currently building.
  7. brad

    Boxed Avanti!

    Actually several prototypes had the Saginaw recirculating ball steering box. And some had frames with a tag riveted on that read Midland -Ross. So, technically there is more than one correct answer.
  8. Ford called them Cruise-O-Matics. The front pump and tail shaft seals are exclusive to Studebaker. That is if you by a generic Borg Warner rebuild or seal kit, those two seals will have to be sourced separately.
  9. brad

    On Frame

    I used Sikkens single stage urethane. (meaning not clear coated). I never "bake" fiberglass cars. I do turn the booth temp to about 85 and let it run for about 4-5 hours. It's then ready for buffing the next day. I have people in France, and Switzerland asking me to go there too! lol.
  10. brad

    On Frame

    Got the Upol urethane bedliner applied as undercoating today. The got the body mounted back on the frame.
  11. See my reply on the SDC forum. Beware of moving the arms to take care of a parking problem. You may end up with the wipers traveling across the cowl.
  12. From what I was told, It has to do with slipping of the drive element without a load on it.
  13. brad

    Barryo

    Sounds like you need to replace the nylon cancel cam on the switch. SI lists them. Also the metal ring that hits it on the back of the steering wheel, might be off. It is just held on by spring pressure, and can be moved if someone worked on the wheel in the past.
  14. brad

    Painted

    Out of the booth, and now on to the color sanding and buffing. It layed down pretty good, but there's always some dirt, no matter how careful. Then some urethane undercoating, and back on the frame. Black interior too. Lew...Help, where did my pics go???
  15. brad

    Tilt Column?

    Actually the Buick column was shorter. I still think the universal Flaming River columns in paintable steel is the closest option. You can order them in different lengths, and transferring the bracket is then a simple matter. Also to be taken into consideration is the "bell" on the column. Not all early GM tilts had the smaller area just below the steering wheel. So you would have to use a later Avanti II dash with the larger steering column notch, or modify that.
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