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brad

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About brad

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    AOAI Forum Member
  • Birthday 04/04/1960

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    http://bezautoalchemy.com

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    Male
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    Various
  • Interests
    Avanti's, Studebakers, any interesting vehicles, pets,family.....

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  • My Avanti
    1963

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  1. The weatherstrip you ae trying to install in that channel is designed for earlier cars that did not have the metal channel. It is designed to screw directly to the body under the drip rail. The retainer is for later foam extrusions without any metal in them. A good universal weather strip extrusion from Steele or Restoration specialties is far better than the factory early upper door seal. Something like the 70-3680-99 would be a good choice.
  2. Black. Even the fuel pump was black. But, I too think it looks good natural. But for show judging, it should be black.
  3. I would think that would save some wear and tear on an expensive part. I don't see any harm in doing so. A quick metering rod change could also be made to compensate. Although changing belts can be a bear, there are tools available that would simplify doing so.
  4. So. we've been working on reproducing a few things. Soon to be available will be new valve cover gaskets, and the grommets for the top. Also the brake caliper emblems as used on early cars will be available too.
  5. I think it was the battery
  6. As you surmised...it's not supposed to be there.
  7. Really, they are pretty expensive new. a 1409 can be sealed with the marine accelerator pump and work fine. All new carbs are mostly sealed except for that due to emissions and evaporation rules. 500 CFM is enough but for a few extreme high RPM engine builds. They come with .098 primary jets, .095 secondary jets, and are very well suited right out of the box.
  8. The problem with adapters, it makes things taller.
  9. If you don't have to have factory stock, an Edelbrock MARINE carburetor will work fine. They are already sealed.You just have to use an aftermarket top hat.
  10. Carter High Performance X Fuel Pump Rebuild Kit - Dead Nuts On This is the ONLY place I have found that makes a good kit for the stock pumps. Won't work on the modern Chrysler replacements. They have 8 screws holding the housings together, originals have 6. This has the correct caged valves, not some stupid brass bullet casing/rivet.
  11. I ran a wire inside the vent hose in the 1/4 and used it to fish the new line back through the high loop in the 1/4 panel.
  12. Possibly. What are the dimensions? (width, and length) I got some that were stainless, and 3/4" wide.
  13. Those metal extrusions have been NLA for years. If you find them hold on to them.
  14. TKO600 behind a Stude engine. The TKX is supposed to be better shifting, and slightly smaller. Behind a Chevy it is just a matter of bolting it to the factory bellhousing. You don't need to change everything else. Use the Redline MTL fluid, and change it once after about 1000 miles. I got mine from summit as a transmission only, check around and see if places like Speedway are offering deals. They usually are a little less expensive.
  15. You can rebuild the originals. Here is the best kit available. Carter High Performance X Fuel Pump Rebuild Kit - Dead Nuts On
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