Painting - preparation - final coat

[Studeemike]

I am in process of updating my 1983 after nine years of ownership. The engine has been rebuilt (replaced with a 383), transmission rebuilt and upgraded, and added 3:31 gears to the Dana 44. I also added a rack and pinion (as per articles on Bob Johnston's web site). Now it is time to paint. The car has one repaint in its past (warranty in 1983 or 1984) so I was planning to strip (soda blast), epoxy prime then after fixing any issues, repaint in a base/clear combination. I was assuming if we treat the car as a Corvette, I will not experience any issues. Another thing I am doing is replacing the windshield. I have all new rubbers for the car. I assume that the windshield is installed using a rope like any car in the late 50's early 60's. The rear window is not leaking. I have the rubber for it as well (kit from SI) so undecided if I will remove and replace. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.

[mfg]

Hi Mike,...I own '83 Avanti RQB3655...104 cars 'older' than yours!!!.....About that rear window, it's disheartening to remove a 'non-leaker, but really the only way to refinish one of these cars is with both the windshield and back glass removed.

[plwindish]

Studemike, make sure that the bedding putty is used under the windshield and under the back window as needed. My 76 went through a thorough repaint the 1st six months of this year with the paint shop having a glass shop reinstalling the windshield and back window. One day after getting the car back and driving through some heavy downpours on I-55 enroute to St. Louis, We found lots of leaks between the windshield and rear window because the shop did not use the putty. Putty was not used between the drip rails and underside of the top as well, causing rain to wick through the top of the weatherstripping an on our shoulders as well. The car spent a week back at the shop getting windshield and rear window properly installed using the bedding putty as well as the drip rails reinstalled properly. The car now looks great and doesn't give me a shower when it rains.

Mfg, how right you are about not wanting to remove a non leaking windshield or back window! Its really hard to get a great paint job without taking both windshield and rear window out of the car. If a shop is doing the work for you, many glass guys aren't well trained in the "old school" installations, so take an Avanti shop manual in with the car to enlighten them as well as saving you some grief about leaks.

[ron@crall.com]

I chem stripped my 63 many years ago, and recently purchased a 71 that had been soda blasted. It was work to chem strip the car, no idea about the soda blast, however; the chem strip car had a great surface and the blasted car will be a lot of work to get it to the same point as the chem strip.

[lschuc]

I chem stripped my 63 many years ago, and recently purchased a 71 that had been soda blasted. It was work to chem strip the car, no idea about the soda blast, however; the chem strip car had a great surface and the blasted car will be a lot of work to get it to the same point as the chem strip.

Ron, since you soda blasted the finish on your Avanti, make sure you use something to neutralize the fiberglass. I've heard that this is needed to get all traces of the baking soda out of the fiberglass pores, otherwise the primers and paint could react badly to any trace of the soda embedded in the fiberglass.

[ron@crall.com]

I know it was media blasted and baking soda is the likely product. Thanks for the tip about neutralizing it. I have been doing some research since. All of my painting gear and expertise is for acrylic lacquer shot old school with lots of pressure and thinner and that is what I was intending on using. Hard to find due to EPA restrictions on the stuff, and getting expensive but I have been very happy with my results and have located a couple of sources.