What's the extra fuel line for?

[WayneC]

I just pulled the gas tank out of my '71... what a PIA! On my car there is a second fuel tube that comes out of the junction block (just ahead of the left rear wheel) that is normally used to drain the tank; it runs up to the engine compartment, where it is just capped with a short piece of fuel line with a short bolt clamped inside the end.

I think I used to know what it was for, but I've forgotten... maybe a pressure relief line for a Stude fuel pump?

I'm thinking about just replacing that line with a plug at the juction block... anyone know if that would cause a problem?

I also couldn't tell where the maze of vent tubes/hoses atop the tank go... I can see they come out of 2 fittings, one atop either end of the tank, then through a long winding 'S" tube and then "T" into one hose and go through the floor and into a tube high on the frame near the shock mount, but I couldn't see where that tube goes from there. Wonder why they have that long S-tube atop the tank rather than just use tubes that take a direct route? ...ah, actually, as I think more about it, it's probably for maintaining a vent (so as not to create a siphon) when the car is parked on an incline such that one side of the car is lower than the other. But where does the vent tube go at the other end?

The car was in storage for about 10 years, and I could see that I was getting quite a lot of dark rust-colored crud in my clear fuel filter, so I figured I better pull the tank and have it cleaned... but I didn't see anything in the fuel I drained out, even some that I drained into a glass jar. Now I'm wondering if that "rust" was actually some sort of varnish scavenged from the inside of the fuel tubes/lines. Since the tank is already out I'm having it cleaned anyway, and changing all the fuel hoses, to get it ready for another 35 years (I hope, because I never want to remove it again!).

Anyone have a good suggestion as to how to go about cleaning out the fuel line tubes without creating a massive mess in my driveway?

Edited June 14, 2006 by WayneC

[IndyJimW]

Could it be a the vent for the charcoal canister? Is you had one there would be a vent hose coming off the carburetor also.

Jim

[WayneC]

Could it be a the vent for the charcoal canister? Is you had one there would be a vent hose coming off the carburetor also.

Jim

No, the vent to a charcoal canister would come off the top of the fuel tank, not a line off the fuel tank feed tube to the fuel pump. So far as I know, this car never had a charcoal cannister... I think I'm the second owner and I've had the car since the late-70's. I do remember adding a charcoal canister to one of my cars shortly after I came to California, but I don't think it was this car; I'll take a closer look tomorrow, after all, it's been 10 years, so I may have forgotten about the canister.

Now that second line I mentioned, coming from the "S" vent tube atop the gas tank could be for a cannister, but I wasn't able to trace that line to it's far end.

[SBCA96]

If its the line I am thinking of, then its best to keep it, mine rusted away about 7 years ago and started

to leak all over the street. I JUST now replaced the line about a month ago. I have it run under the car,

but I havent hooked it back up yet. Its a pressure return line for the fuel pump, and a common thing on

new cars. I wouldnt remove it. I bought lines from Napa, and spliced them together under the car. It

wasnt overly difficult to do, but time consuming doing the bends by hand. It runs next to the larger main

fuel line on the outside of the frame rail on the drivers side.

Wayne .. you see the pics of my Avanti?

Tom

Edited June 15, 2006 by SBCA96

[WayneC]

Its a pressure return line for the fuel pump, and a common thing on

new cars. I wouldnt remove it. I bought lines from Napa, and spliced them together under the car.

Tom

Yeah, that's what I figured, except I would have thought a pressure return line would run all the way back to the tank, otherwise it seems to me it could be incorporated right into the internal design of the fuel pump itself. Doesn't make sense to me. But, I suppose that modern cars have the high pressure pump either IN the tank, or immediately outside the tank, so the high pressure line must have a pressure regulator near the injectors, which means the extra fuel needs to be returned to upstream of the pump, ie, into the tank. Doesn't explain why the pressure return wouldn't be incorporated into the design of the pump on the Stude, though.

When you say you bought lines from Napa, do you mean you replaced the main fuel line, or the pressure return line, or both? What did you do to cap the end of the pressure return line in the engine compartment? (or is it actually used for a return in your car)... the shop manual does not show that pressure return line at the junction block, it shows a plug, and it shows the fuel line running along the left side of the frame rather than the right side, as does the parts manual. On which side of the frame is your fuel line? Perhaps the return line was only used for R2 or R3 cars? But, since Avanti Motors must have moved the fuel line to the right side of the car for the Chevy engine, it seems strange that they wouldn't have replaced that line with a plug at the block... they must have had a reason for keeping it in their new routing, or Studebaker moved the line to the right side sometime during Avanti production, and Avanti Motors was still using up pre-assembled chassis left by Stude, all the way into 1971 models?

I looked at the pics... nice shots, I may have to get me a dslr next time around. I might suggest, though, that you try two things to enhance the photos the next time you shoot your car: turn on the parking lights, and try using flash when you are shooting the wheels/brakes. What lens were you using with the camera?

Cars do tend to photograph better than they really look in person... that may be why I haven't bought a car off eBay as yet!

[SBCA96]

Yeah, that's what I figured, except I would have thought a pressure return line would run all the way back to the tank, otherwise it seems to me it could be incorporated right into the internal design of the fuel pump itself. Doesn't make sense to me.

I must have misunderstood your post, yes the line goes from the tank, along the drivers

frame rail on the outside, and then over the lower control arm, and zips up under the

fuel pump. Its connects to a "Tee" off the pressure side of the pump. You are correct

about the modern location of the fuel pump, and regulator. I would love to put a better

tank in my Avanti, with better control of the fuel (baffles) and an in-tank pump!

When you say you bought lines from Napa, do you mean you replaced the main fuel line, or the pressure return line, or both? What did you do to cap the end of the pressure return line in the engine compartment? (or is it actually used for a return in your car)

I got the longest, and the second longest lines in the same diameter, and then connected

them with a union (roughly under the drivers seat). I found out after that I needed a

little more length to reach the fuel pump, so TWO of the longest would work best. I had

put a new return line on .. I think it was 5/16?? Fuel line is 3/8?

... the shop manual does not show that pressure return line at the junction block, it shows a plug, and it shows the fuel line running along the left side of the frame rather than the right side, as does the parts manual.

I think what has happened is, the original line has a union roughly under the drivers

seat, chances are whoever capped the front of the line, removed the rear of the line

and capped the tank. So now it looks like the line used to go to the drain plug on

the main fuel line. Thats what that is as far as I can tell, its to drain the fuel

out of the line (its at the lowest point).

On which side of the frame is your fuel line? Perhaps the return line was only used for R2 or R3 cars?

My fuel line is on the drivers side rail, on the outside, above the little supports.

I have an R1, and it has the return. I think that even the Larks started getting

this by 1963, Hawks too.

But, since Avanti Motors must have moved the fuel line to the right side of the car for the Chevy engine, it seems strange that they wouldn't have replaced that line with a plug at the block... they must have had a reason for keeping it in their new routing, or Studebaker moved the line to the right side sometime during Avanti production, and Avanti Motors was still using up pre-assembled chassis left by Stude, all the way into 1971 models?

This part I am confused about, you are saying that your fuel line is on the pass side?

I dont see why they would have moved it there, if memory serves the fuel pump for GM

is on the drivers side also ... no?

I looked at the pics... nice shots, I may have to get me a dslr next time around. I might suggest, though, that you try two things to enhance the photos the next time you shoot your car: turn on the parking lights, and try using flash when you are shooting the wheels/brakes. What lens were you using with the camera?

Thanks, they werent planned at all. I stopped on the side of the road, ran out and

took a couple pics. No sun to product placement. Totally on a whim. I had taken the

camera with me on the Gtech run just "because". I didnt want to turn on the parking

lights, because the front ones dont match, and so having them on in the shot would only

emphasize that! I also dont usually care for the lights on look, as for the flash, it

is controlled by the sensor. The processor in the camera will automatically use a

"balance" flash to help out. It deemed it not to be necessary. The lense is an digital

EF-S 18-55, but the camera can use any EF lense, or since I have an adapter, a T-mount.

This is a high end camera .. I figured I should buy a GOOD one! Canon has made the "XT"

as good as the "D20" for the most part, only its cheaper.

Cars do tend to photograph better than they really look in person... that may be why I haven't bought a car off eBay as yet!

I am shocked how good it came out. Makes me like the camera even more!

Tom

[WayneC]

This part I am confused about, you are saying that your fuel line is on the pass side?

I dont see why they would have moved it there, if memory serves the fuel pump for GM

is on the drivers side also ... no?

Tom

Based on your comments, I apparently didn't describe my fuel lines clearly enough.

The main 3/8" feed line (from the tank bottom to the fuel pump) runs along the outside of the passenger side (right) frame rail on my car, exactly the opposite of the shop manual. Chevy small block engines have the fuel pump on the passenger side near the front of the engine, so that makes sense. There is a "T" junction block in that main line just about below the rear of the door opening. Instead of a drain plug fitting in that "T" junction block, there is a fitting for a 5/16" steel line/tube that runs forward to the engine compartment in parallel with the main 3/8" line, but then it simply bends upward in the engine compartment (just rearward of the A-arm mounts) and ends; it's end is capped off (with a short piece of hose and a bolt, using 2 hose clamps).

It is this smaller line that confounds me, I do not understand it's intended purpose... pressure relief recirculation lines usually run all the way back to the gas tank, I think. If it only routes back a few feet and then into the main fuel line feed, I would think the fuel pump itself could be designed internally to return high-pressure-relief unused fuel around to the (low pressure) fuel pump inlet. Carbureted Chevy small block fuel pumps do not have an external pressure relief line. That short 5/16" line could easily have been replaced by a drain plug at the junction block by Avanti Motors, so I have to wonder if they put it there for a reason... but WHAT reason????

Additionally, back at the tank there is a "squashed S" shaped vent tube held about 2" above the tank by two "L" brackets bolted to studs on the top of the tank; each end of the "S" is connected to a fitting atop an opposite end of the tank; there is a "T" off the middle of the vent "S" that connects to a hose that disappears down through a hole in the fiberglass floor... that hose connects to a steel tube attached to the frame in the vicinity of the right rear shock mount, I think... but I was not able to see where the vent tube goes from there (it appears to head forward). I understand the use of this line, it is a vent tube for gasoline vapor and/or overflow, I just do not yet know where it's far end terminates, because I haven't investigated it thoroughly.

Also, you said you put a new 5/16" pressure relief tube in your car, I assume you mean all the way back to the fuel tank... but then where does it connect to the tank? (my tank only has the three places to connect fittings: one at each end on the top (vent lines), and one on the bottom center (main fuel feed line).

Guess I need to take a closer look at the 3/8" line to see if I could replace it like you did, with reasonable effort, to get another 35 years of fuel line life! The line doesn't look bad, but who knows what's inside it.

PS...

on the photos, the camera doesn't always make the right setting... you may be able to open the pop-up flash, set the camera on spot metering and focus (half-depress the shutter plunger) on a dark recessed area, then change your aim (to frame the photo you want) and depress the plunger the rest of the way, to either force a flash or get more of the darker brake assembly areas to show up in the resultant photo. If that doesn't work, the camera may have a manual setting to force the flash. Contrast is great when the main subject is lit, not so great when you want to capture details in the darker background or foreground areas. A backlighted or high-contrast subject is nearly impossible to get without a flash... like people standing in a very shady area under a tree or roof overhang, with a brightly-lit sky behind them, an engine compartment when sunlight is illuminating a large polished stainless air cleaner, or centering your shot on a dark wheel with a chrome spinner. Sometimes the flash results in the lighter areas of the photo looking washed out, so it's a matter of judgement and/or shooting the shot several ways to get what you need.

[SBCA96]

Based on your comments, I apparently didn't describe my fuel lines clearly enough.

OK ... now I think I got the fuel lines, yah, its opposite of the Stude, but as you mentioned

the Stude goes back to the tank. I dont remember where it goes after that, its been quite

a few years since I pulled the tank from it. I dont have any of that venting stuff, since my

tank uses a vented gas cap. I agree its strange for it to only go back halfway!

on the photos, the camera doesn't always make the right setting...

Wow .. Wayne! I didnt know you were a closet photographer! You are right, sometimes it

needs to be forced to flash, but compared to the pictures I WAS getting, I am doing much

better now!

Maybe I should bring the Canon tomorrow and we can take a few pictures of the venting

and then others can get their input, its hard to picture - without a picture.

Tom

[IndyJimW]

I can't think of any good reason for this line. I would just plug it at the juction block. Chevy fuel pumps don't use a pressure relief.

Maybe someone else would look at their '70 Avanti and check for this line.

Jim

Edited June 16, 2006 by IndyJimW

[WayneC]

I can't think of any good reason for this line. I would just plug it at the juction block. Chevy fuel pumps don't use a pressure relief.

Maybe someone else would look at their '70 Avanti and check for this line.

Jim

I did block off that extra fuel line by plugging the "T" at the junction block. I found that the vent line does indeed go to a charcoal cannister located in the fender behind the right headlight... I can't remember if I put that in or if it came in the car (I suspect I added it to meet CA smog requirements).

Well, I think I'm finally done, I got the tank cleaned by a local shop and I put it back in the car. Before hooking up the fuel line, I blew it out with compressed air and a little alcohol... wasn't terrible, but I did get maybe half a thimble-full of reddish/rust-colored gunk out of the line.

To do that, I attached a long hose to the line above the differential, and a shorter one to the other end at the fuel pump. I duct-taped an old sock securely to the end of the hose at the engine end, and buried it in a small cardboard box stuffed with crumpled paper towels, then taped the box shut and put a pan under it. At the other end the hose was long enough to snake down & out from under the car and up to waist level. I started by blowing low-pressure air (about 40psi) through the hose, then I poured a few ounces of alcohol in the hose and used high air pressure (100psi) to send the alcohol through the line and I let it blow for about 30 seconds. Changed the sock, and repeated the procedure until I didn't get any gunk in the sock... 4 iterations, no mess to clean up, just a smelly box to throw out; worked great.

I replaced all the rubber lines except the long rubber vent hose at the tank which seemed fine. Didn't tackle the fuel pump itself, because it's just in too cramped a position to try to work on it without the car being up on a lift (it was a real bear just getting the rubber lines off and on the pump)... the filter will just have to handle any gunk left in the pump. The line from the pump to the carb is all rubber, so that got replaced.

Haven't started the car yet, but don't foresee any problems.

When I took my old fuel to the waste management facility, I got a nice surprise... they get a lot of "good stuff" dropped off by people who are moving or cleaning house, etc, and they offer it free to people bringing more stuff. I found a small halon marine fire extinguisher that looks to be fully charged, a near-new plastic oil change pan, an unopened gallon of vinegar, and 3/4 of a bottle of Goo-Gone; they also had lots of paint quarts that people had left over from interior painting projects, but I didn't have any need for paint.

Edited June 21, 2006 by WayneC

[IndyJimW]

I may have to remove my tank in order to install a fuel pump for a TPI system. How big a job is it and does a manual help?

Jim

[Gunslinger]

A manual is always a big help on these cars. The procedure for removing the gas tank is deceptive...very straightforward in concept and procedure but more difficult in practice...especially with the age on our cars.

[IndyJimW]

A manual is always a big help on these cars. The procedure for removing the gas tank is deceptive...very straightforward in concept and procedure but more difficult in practice...especially with the age on our cars.

I have several large sledge hammers and some 4 foot pry bars will that help?

Sorry, what I was wondering is there any differences in the design from the original and the later models?

Does the tank come out the bottom, if so I have a major job because my '87 has a crossmember below the tank. The radiator shop I deal with can modify the tank to accept any pickup unit so I'm just planning for the future. If its that big a PIA I may need to rethink my plan, wouldn't want to replace a in-tank fuel pump again.

Jim

[SBCA96]

When I pulled out my tank years ago, I dont remember it being that difficult, as a matter

of fact, it was simple compared to cars I have done the same on since. The tank is not

under the car, but behind the rear seat. You must pull the seat bottom, then the back out,

then remove the 3000 screws that hold the fiberglass cover on. Behind that is the tank.

I think you mean "F.I." not "TPI". TPI is refered to "Tuned Port Injection", which is the

earlier GM Corvette engines of the 80's. Its the one with that "octopus" looking intake

manifold on it. If memory serves you are putting in an LT1, which is refered to as FI or EFI.

BTW Wayne .. I dont want my sock back. You didnt SAY what you needed it for!

Tom

[IndyJimW]

When I pulled out my tank years ago, I dont remember it being that difficult, as a matter

of fact, it was simple compared to cars I have done the same on since. The tank is not

under the car, but behind the rear seat. You must pull the seat bottom, then the back out,

then remove the 3000 screws that hold the fiberglass cover on. Behind that is the tank.

Thanks I wasn't sure how the tank comes out.

I think you mean "F.I." not "TPI". TPI is refered to "Tuned Port Injection", which is the

earlier GM Corvette engines of the 80's. Its the one with that "octopus" looking intake

manifold on it. If memory serves you are putting in an LT1, which is refered to as FI or EFI.

Nope I meant TPI, Chevy used TBI and TPI on the Camaro and Firebird 5.0L and 5.7L in the late '80s and early 90's. The TPI system would bolt right up to my 5.0L. First I'm going to modifiy the 5.0L, after I wear it out in goes the LT1. In between I get it ready for the LT1, that way the cars not down for a long time.

Jim

[SBCA96]

Nope I meant TPI, Chevy used TBI and TPI on the Camaro and Firebird 5.0L and 5.7L in the late '80s and early 90's. The TPI system would bolt right up to my 5.0L. First I'm going to modifiy the 5.0L, after I wear it out in goes the LT1. In between I get it ready for the LT1, that way the cars not down for a long time.

Ah ... OK .. I keep forgetting that you are going to do the TPI setup first! I would

go head strong into the LT1, but I think thats because of my continuing headache

that I have had with our 86 Camaro IROCZ28 350 TPI engine. The Bosche system

is prone to sensor errors and MAF issues. If you got the later Speed Density one

then you are doing OK. That 86 IROC was my introduction into modern EFI.

Here is the wife helping put the new fuel injectors in with her small hands, this was

prior to the new paint job.

Tom

[WayneC]

I may have to remove my tank in order to install a fuel pump for a TPI system. How big a job is it and does a manual help?

Jim

In some ways it's easier than other cars, but still a PITA. For example, in a midyear Corvette you have to remove the spare tire pan, the exhaust pipes, and a crossmember to remove the tank... I did it the "easy" way, I removed the body But it is certainly nothing like trying to replace hog troughs, for instance.

In this case, I'm an old fat guy working on a slightly sloped driveway, so I had to be very careful and I was doing more than just the tank itself, so I had to jack up either end of the car multiple times. The work was spread over maybe a week, but probably took the better part of two days. I'm just getting too old for this stuff.

As Tom said, you need to remove the rear lower seat and the seat back... the seat bottom simply pulls up and forward, while the seat back has 2 bolts holding it at the bottom (here I needed an inside and outside man, because the bolts were frozen). Now put some cardboard or a clean tarp in the car to protect the rugs and upholstery. Then remove a whole bunch of screws holding a fiberglass panel in place, and remove it. The tank is now accessible.

Drain the tank...

I did that by first siphoning fuel from the carb feed line, then removing the hose at the fuel pump end of the main fuel line... I had to jack up the front of the car to get to that hose. Lower the front and jack up the rear of the car; I jacked it up high enough to insert car ramps under the tires, for my safety, with chocks under the front tires. Alternatively, you could drain the tank by clamping the fuel feed hose beneath the tank first to keep any fuel from getting through... then remove the hose end from the fuel line tube, lengthen the hose with another hose and direct the end into a large enough container to hold all the fuel in the tank, then release the clamp.

Underneath the car, remove the tank-fitting-to-fuel tube rubber hose (difficult to reach, above the differential pumpkin), then remove the "L" shaped tank fitting. I had considerable difficulty here because of the proximity to body panels and the difficulty of reaching the fitting with a wrench; I don't have a set of crow's foot wrenches, so I don't know if those would work. I ended up using a plumber's "T" sink wrench, which damaged the hose surface on the fitting, so I went and bought a new fitting... if I did it again I'd put a 1-inch length of hose on the fitting before using the plumber's wrench.

Atop the tank is an elongated "S" vent tube, held up off the tank by brackets bolted to studs on the tank. The ends of the "S" tube screw into fittings on either end of the tank. Disconnect the vent "S" tube at each end, unbolt the brackets, and remove the rubber hose and snake the vent tube out. The filler neck on the tank has a short hose attaching it to the filler stub in the fuel door, remove the screws holding the filler stub (from outside the car), remove the clamps holding the hose, and work the hose loose so you can remove the filler stub from the outside, and the hose from the inside. Move the maze of electrical wires that are routed near and on the gas tank (several wire clamps hold them in place) to get them out of the way of sliding the tank forward. Remove the wires to the tank sending unit. Remove the 2 large nuts holding each gas tank strap and bend the strap ends up out of the way.

Now you can lift the tank about a half inch to clear floor with the fuel outlet and pull/slide the tank forward out of it's cave; it's a very tight fit, and when I wiggled and tilted the tank around in the process I found out not ALL the fuel was drained out, so I had to clean up a mess; luckily none of the fuel ended up on the rug, most of it drained down into a seat side well on the passenger side and I siphoned it out of the car from there. You can avoid this problem by screwing a plug into the tank bottom outlet after you remove the "T" fitting. Gingerly remove the tank through a door.

Reverse the above process to get the tank back in. Make sure all hoses are secure and pour some fresh fuel in the tank.

Now, that all seems fairly straightforward, and it is, but I proceeded to replace all the rubber hoses and to blow out and clean the fuel feed tube, and to plug the drain "T" junction block in the fuel line after I'd removed the mystery second fuel tube attached to the "T" junction block with an "L" fitting. Took 2 trips to auto stores to find the correct plug, and then I found I'd somehow managed to damage the "L" fitting for that excess tube, so I removed the "L" and went back to the store for the correct plug for the remaining hole in the junction.

In all those processes, I'd had to raise and lower each end of the car multiple times, and remove the alternator to gain still-cramped access to rubber hose clamps. Add to all that the number of times I was up and down and in and out because I didn't seem to have quite the right tool, the frustrations of not quite being able to get to a fitting or clamp with a tool in cramped quarters... trying multiple ways to get to them, numerous trips to the garage for tools, rags, hoses, etc, etc, and I was one tired and greasy guy.

If you have a car lift, it would probably simplify the process. If I did it again, I expect it would go much faster.

Edited June 23, 2006 by WayneC

[SBCA96]

In some ways it's easier than other cars, but still a PIA. For example, in a midyear Corvette you have to remove the spare tire pan, the exhaust pipes, and a crossmember to remove the tank... I did it the "easy" way, I removed the body

Great tech article Wayne! What a pain in the arse job! I am not looking forward to

changing the fuel pump in my 93 Camaro, to get the fuel tank out, you have to drop

the WHOLE rear axle assembly .. which includes a torque arm to the trans!

Sorry I didnt get by last week with the Digital Camera, but you know the story of

how emotional my weekend was! I plan on bringing the camera tomorrow, so far

the wife is giving me the OK to go hang out at In N Out tomorrow night, though I

am worried about her since SHE is now feeling the loss (reality is setting in). I am

not sure if I will drive the Camaro or the Avanti .. leaning toward the Avanti. Is

yours along far enough to get it over to In N Out?

Tom

[WayneC]

Is

yours along far enough to get it over to In N Out?

Tom

No.... haven't started it yet, and haven't got a lot of time today to do anything with it; I need tires because I don't trust the old cracked tires, and I need to get the tranny serviced and the oil changed. While I was under the car I also found out I need a new differential input shaft seal.

You're welcome to stop by this evening, bring your wife along.

[IndyJimW]

Sounds pretty straightforward. I have several lifts, tools and a couple of mechanics that think its fun to work on cars that are different. Ah to be young and stupid again.

Jim

[SBCA96]

You're welcome to stop by this evening, bring your wife along.

Wife has to go home and take care of our paralyzed kitty, he was, as far as

we can tell, thrown from a moving car on the freeway behind my work. We

rescued him, but he hasnt regained use of his rear legs, or bladder. Its

not as bad as you would think - he just cant "go" (needs help). So she is

off to go home after work, and must clean some before the parents come

up this weekend for the Flower Festival. She is hesitant to clean too much

since "things" around the house are still as "she" (Kallie) left them.

I was planning on stopping by though, I drove the Avanti, brought the cam,

thought I might take a few pics around town. Need to wash it, and I need

a neck strap for the Camera. Too bad you cant make it yet, would freak a

few people out seeing TWO Avantis at In N Out. Funny, the last time I drove

it, I had a guy in a Porsche taking pictures of it over at CompUSA!!

I also brought the Cobra rotors, so you can check them out if you want.

Tom

[SBCA96]

Nope I meant TPI, Chevy used TBI and TPI on the Camaro and Firebird 5.0L and 5.7L in the late '80s and early 90's. The TPI system would bolt right up to my 5.0L.

You might be interested in this ....

http://public.fotki.com/wackydave/car_show...palm/page9.html

Tom

Here are a few pics I took of Waynes Avanti on Friday night :

Tom

[IndyJimW]

Supercharged Chevy Avanti. Sweet.

I think that the S shaped tube on the top is a way to vent trapped air during refueling.

OR its an antena for XM.

Thanks for the photos.

Jim

Edited June 29, 2006 by IndyJimW

[WayneC]

Well, I can't hardly believe this!!!!

I poured about 7 gallons of gas in the tank last week after 2 trips to the gas station with a gas can. Noticed a bit of a whiff of gas inside the car, but I figured that smell is left over from when I spilled gas when I removed the tank thinking it was completely empty. I left the tank cover panel and the rear seat out until I've driven the car.

I spent a couple of hours tuesday struggling to replace a lower radiator hose with what is supposed to be the right hose and I couldn't get it in. Bruised my arm and hand up nicely while trying. Went down to a parts store and searched for one with a shape I thought would fit better (after extensive trimming) and it did, so I trimmed it and put that in. Called my Avanti parts guy to bitch, but he swears the first hose does work... I believe him, but danged if I could get it in, and too late now, maybe I'll try it again in another 10 or 20 years!

So today I figured I'd take the car out for it's initial run on the street, down to get it lubed. As I nosed it carefully down my steep driveway and into the street, I noticed a stronger gasoline smell and heard sloshing... looked back over my shoulder to see gas running out from under the tank below the right hold-down strap!

Dang it!!!! I'm gonna hafta pull the tank AGAIN to figure out where the leak is! The tank looked to be in great shape, a sentiment echoed by the guy at the shop that cleaned it out for me (though I forgot to ask him point-blank if he leak-tested it, I remember him saying there was almost no rust inside). I thought I had that miserable tank job behind me.

Can't be coming out the vent outlets or the sending unit at the top, and I would think that if the fuel outlet at the bottom were leaking, it would drip down out of the car, although I suppose it could flow along the bottom of the tank. More likely there is a tank leak, or the rubber hose on the filler neck was leaking while I was filling the car and gas collected in depressions in the fiberglass under the tank.... just thinkin' out loud here.

AArrrgghhh!!!

[SBCA96]

Well, I can't hardly believe this!!!! ...So today I figured I'd take the car out for it's initial run on the street, down to get it lubed. As I nosed it carefully down my steep driveway and into the street, I noticed a stronger gasoline smell and heard sloshing... looked back over my shoulder to see gas running out from under the tank below the right hold-down strap!

What a total pain in the arse! If there is one thing I hate MORE then doing a messy

draw out repair job on a car, it is doing it twice! I feel your pain, Wayne. My 63 had

a fuel leak, I brought it to a guy in Goleta on Stroke Rd just past where Kmart is. He

found that a baffle (yah they actually DO have a couple in that big tall tank) had come

loose and was leaking at the weld. Very hard to spot. This is why I WISH that some

one had started making plastic tanks for these cars. I have one in my Impala SS &

it works fine. I guess this answers my question if you are going to make it to In N Out

tomorrow night. I dont have any plans on driving my Avanti to work tomorrow, so its

not a big deal anyway. Been putting more miles on the 223,000 mile Camaro Z28

this week .. BOY does it need tires though .. cant drive it in the rain!

Tom