Avanti inspection- what am I missing?

[Hogtrough]

I was a classic car appraiser for years but am new to Avanti (but not to Studebaker). I have a list of things I intend to look at while looking over a '63 R1 , estate situation,  has been sitting for a couple of years (not sure I will be able to drive it, may be no brakes). . Let me know what you would add to the list. (Added are what I found when actually doing the check)

 

Wiggle tire when jacked up to check A frame bushings, king pins, steering. 

Everything seems tight except steering center link may have play.

 

 

 

Check for leaks at rear trans seal and front pinion seal

 

Both appear dry

 

Verify engine number

 

Somehow forgot to do this

 

Verify serial number same as on title (frame near trans dipstick)

 

Correct serial number

 

Cracking at front spring pocket starting at river going at backside of front crossmember

 

No cracking noted

 

Rusty tubular rear crossmember

 

No rust here

 

Door alignment/hinge issues. Window operation

 

Windows operate well. Driver door shuts like new. Passenger door needs slight adjustment

 

Hood hinge cracks

 

None noted

 

Inspect hog troughs

 

No rust through, appear solid

 

Check frame rails, especially just in front of rear axle

 

Frame rails good

 

Gas tank condition

 

Not under car as usual,  unable to check

 

Start and run engine, check for unusual noises, smoke. Check trans goes into Drive and Reverse

 

Unable to start engine. No power making it from battery to ignition switch

 

 

Edited Monday at 02:55 AM by Hogtrough

[mfg]

That’s a fairly thorough list… about all I’d add is a close inspection of fiberglass body for signs of earlier accidents, and inspect for soaked carpets ( Avantis are known for their share of water leaks!… Good luck!

[Hogtrough]

I was a bit concerned about soaked carpets/trapped water rust since the car has sat outside for two years- but looked on Google streetview and saw at that point the car had a cover. It was garaged and rarely driven before that , so is more likely suffering from the usual maladies of seized brake cylinders, stale gas, etc. 

[64studeavanti]

If you can, inspect the windshield frame and A pillars. These areas are prone to rust out. You can check the A pillars by removing the reveal moulding.

[Hogtrough]

So I went to GA, inspected the car and bought it. Here's a rundown of what I found: 

 

 

Pros: Car has a good body and solid frame. Garaged up until two years ago. Hog troughs are good, floor and trunk pans good. Seat covers and carpets have been replaced. Engine and transmission completely rebuilt in 2005, fully documented with receipts, all parts secured from Meyers Studebaker/Avanti. Only 7000 miles driven since. Brake and other work done at same time. Zero play in rear axle, u joints. Paint job probably 30 years old, can be buffed to look nice, no serious issues found in bodywork. Drivers door closes like new, passenger door doesn't but should be adjustable. Car came with the original owners manual and also the accessory book.

 

Cons: All interior items except those replaced in '05 are suffering from heat and moisture damage from excessive GA humidity. Two years outside under a cover have taken their tole. Headliner, package shelf, dash cover and assorted vinyl pieces need replacing. Bezels of gauges slightly rusted. Door panels can be sorted out. A/C will need lots of attention. Tires are 15 years old. Even though engine had a full rebuild, the moisture caused an electrical glitch and no power was going anywhere from the fresh battery I put it. Turn key and no gauge movement, no ignition, no start. I was able to slowly turn the engine using a remote start switch. Will need a full brake job including booster, but due to the work done in 05 many parts will be reusable.

I can go two directions on this car:

• I can get the car mechanically reliable and cosmetically acceptable for a few months labor and a few thousand dollars and drive as is with a total investment (including car) of about 15K

• I can have the car stripped and painted, replace the headliner, dash pad , gauges and package shelf, refurbish the steering wheel, fix the A/C and electrical issues, rebuild the brakes, replace air cleaner cover and valve covers, new tires, etc. and have a car that would present well at a national event with total investment (including car) of about 25K. This is only because I have a body/paint guy who does great work and is very reasonable (hard to find these days). I would do all mechanical and interior work.

Which direction would you go?

 

( I posted the above on a FB group and got a lot of responses saying find another car. Maybe they think I paid more for the car than I did? Maybe they think humidity automatically means rust bucket?  Anyway, I respectfully disagree)

Edited Monday at 02:49 AM by Hogtrough

[Hogtrough]

On 1/29/2025 at 11:21 AM, 64studeavanti said:

If you can, inspect the windshield frame and A pillars. These areas are prone to rust out. You can check the A pillars by removing the reveal moulding.

Didn't find any rust out on the car. Did find some surface rust here and there (including windshield frame)  which will be easy enough to fix.