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center bell crank bushing


Jim Farley

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No need for the engine to come out but you might swing the Steering around to afford more convenient loosening of the Bellcrank Pinchbolt Nut.

It will likely be quite tight so you might need extra leverage to persuade it.

Once the Bellcrank is loosened, the bolt must be removed completely. The four bolts securing the Center Bearing casting can be removed. The Center Bearing will drop out from under the Front Crossmember.

The Bearings may be either Bronze Bushings or Needle Rollers depending on what has been installed before. You have choices on repair & replacement options.

Doing up the Bellcrank bolt again and ensuring the Center Shaft is properly shimmed is crucial to eliminate slop in the steering, however.

Edited by Zedman
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  • 2 weeks later...

When you shim the bellcrank shaft in the casting, make sure there is only a few thousandths of an inch vertical play after the large nut is tightened. You do not want the nut to clamp up on the casting. You do want it to clamp up on the shims and the shaft. If it does clamp up on the casting, it will make the the shaft difficult to rotate.  Save the old shims when you disassemble it. You may also need to buy a few more shims. They are available in different thicknesses so you can get just the correct stack up to get the correct amount of vertical play.

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11 hours ago, Mark L said:

When you shim the bellcrank shaft in the casting, make sure there is only a few thousandths of an inch vertical play after the large nut is tightened. You do not want the nut to clamp up on the casting. You do want it to clamp up on the shims and the shaft. If it does clamp up on the casting, it will make the the shaft difficult to rotate.  Save the old shims when you disassemble it. You may also need to buy a few more shims. They are available in different thicknesses so you can get just the correct stack up to get the correct amount of vertical play.

I set mine up at 3 thousands.  Used the original shims, less 1.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

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