SCPO-PD Posted April 23, 2023 Author Report Posted April 23, 2023 Finished up the rework of the brakes (front & back) to include a few side tracks (Shocks, Hood Latch Cable, Glove Box hinge, brake paining......) Anyway the last leg of the of the effort was the need to make a couple of new / replacement lines as the brake line fittings were rusted solid. COMPLETELY shocked at the cost AND Limited number of fittings that I couldn't find to complete the job. Actually had a young man at Napa recommend that I purchase a small pre-made line, cut it in half, and use the fittings to make the line that I needed. THANK YOU Amazon as I bought a couple of fitting kits to rework all the lines as needed during the continued rebuild effort of RQB-3616. LET THE BLEEDING BEGIN!!!!! I also have included the pics of the painted calipers....
SCPO-PD Posted April 24, 2023 Author Report Posted April 24, 2023 Well - Day #1 of Bleeding Brakes.... Ended up replacing the rear main line from the double female connection just rear of the proportioning valve to include the rubber line to the splitter feeding the two wheels. The rubber line collapsed and the connection was frozen / rusted. I also ended up replacing the first line that I made from the proportioning valve feeding to the right front tire. The connection @ the proportioning valve wouldn't seal.... Anyway... All of the brakes are bleed, pretty sure there are no leaks, nice firm peddle, until I turn the engine over and then the peddle bottoms out..... I am guessing that I need a new power booster.....
Zedman Posted April 24, 2023 Report Posted April 24, 2023 If your Booster is the same as mine and I suspect it might, yank it off and see if you can get it rebuilt- just had mine done. Bendix unit same as early 70's jaguar XJ6, some Caddies , Volvos and AMC's
SCPO-PD Posted April 25, 2023 Author Report Posted April 25, 2023 11 hours ago, Zedman said: If your Booster is the same as mine and I suspect it might, yank it off and see if you can get it rebuilt- just had mine done. Bendix unit same as early 70's jaguar XJ6, some Caddies , Volvos and AMC's Mine is the very same model.... The only one that I have been able to find is from Studebaker International.... All others are "out of Stock". I have found local guru about 2.5 hrs away that I am going to check out here following the Iron Chariots Car Show and see what he can do.
SCPO-PD Posted April 25, 2023 Author Report Posted April 25, 2023 God is So Very Good Y'all!!!! After retreating into the house yesterday evening and fearing additional problems with a possible failed brake power booster.... I wasn't too worried as I remembered seeing them online for $100 - $125 when I started this trek a short time ago. HOWEVER, worry started to set in as I read Zedman's and others problems obtaining a new booster AND noticed that all of the parts dealers were showing the booster as being "Out of Stock" - minus Studebaker International. Anyway, during my extended search across the web I noticed that there should be a gasket or o-ring between the master cylinder and booster. Having just replaced the MC with a new unit that I purchased from Studebaker International, I didn't remember there being a gasket or o-ring with the new unit nor was there one on the old one.... Anyway I got home and pulled the MC back from the Power Booster to reveal what I already knew. I crafted myself a gasket, installed it, and commenced to testing it. The result was that I have brakes!!!! I put the rear tires back on and will finish getting RQB-3616 off the stands and checking out the brakes in the driveway before I put her on the road..... Again - Thank You Lord!!!!
Zedman Posted April 25, 2023 Report Posted April 25, 2023 (edited) I'm personally glad you posted this outcome ! I looked at all my photos for my own Brake booster and Master cylinder where they interface and I recalled there was no evidence of a seal in there. Seeing the vacuum is on the front half of the booster drum, it makes sense to have a gasket there....🙄. I will follow your lead when I put my system back together- Thanks. 👍 Edited April 25, 2023 by Zedman
SCPO-PD Posted April 25, 2023 Author Report Posted April 25, 2023 TEST DRIVE SAT!!!! I do need to crawl under to verify all of the new connections but thus far all looks and sounds good!!!
SCPO-PD Posted April 30, 2023 Author Report Posted April 30, 2023 My driver side mirror was hanging down the door when I purchased RQB-3616 and was missing most of the screws inside the mirror, the control lever (I thought), as well as the ring to hold the joy stick in the door panel. I found out that Avanti used 70-74 AMC AMX Mirrors and replacement are running $375ish and..... I was looking for other options to include a cheep mirror to attempt to pull the control wires off and attempt to complete a transplant operation. Well the Lord provided again earlier this week as when I attempted to find a set of replacement mirrors on line and a mirror POPPED onto my screen for a VERY reasonable price and the seller thought it to be a AMC Pacer Mirror. As I looked hard at it, I was quite positive that is was actually a AMC AMX Mirror and exactly what I needed. Well it came in today and it has made its way onto RQB-3616 and it looks pretty darn good.
SCPO-PD Posted May 5, 2023 Author Report Posted May 5, 2023 Getting Cleaned up for RQB-3616's initial Car Show - Iron Chariots 2023 @ Ivor Baptist Church in Ivor, VA https://IvorBaptistChurch.org, Some before & after interior pics included.
SCPO-PD Posted February 8 Author Report Posted February 8 Well Folks it has been quite awhile since making any headway on RBQ-3616 as I needed to stop efforts in order to take care of some Honey Do's.... However, it is getting to be that time of year - days getting longer and warmer. Note that I have a few remaining Honey Do's to knock out but I am going to make some headway on RBQ-3616. This Spring's efforts are going to include.... 1 - Removing the seats and delivering them to the local upholstery shop to get them all reworked with new leather and cushions. 2- Cleaning the carpet while the seats are out as I think it is very salvageable. 3 - Replacing the seat belts. (gotta order them ASAP) 4 - Replacing the battery, cables, and battery tray. (Everything bought minus the new battery) 5 - Replacing the power steering hoses. (Hoses and wrenches bought) 6 - Get some welding work completed - trunk support/cross member and some work on the rear left frame where it looks like 3616 sat on the ground and ate up the flat bar along the bottom of the frame. WOW 3616's list is getting as long as the Honey Do list....... Any advice on the power steering hose job or a decent welder in the Suffolk, VA area will be gladly taken. Needless to say - Pictures will be included in the updates. Blessings Y'all!!!
SCPO-PD Posted February 13 Author Report Posted February 13 HOLY MACKEREL!!! Who would have known that removing 3 seats from a car could be so labor intensive, frustrating, and EXPENSIVE. The funny think (Not Ha, Ha, Ha) is that I am not even done yet. Day One - (2ish hours) - Rear Seat removed & 3 seat frame to floorboard bolts taken out (2 Passenger + 1 Driver) 1/2 can of PB Blaster applied to remaining bolts, Day 2 - (5ish hours) - 2 seat frame to floorboard bolts removed) (1 Passenger + 1 Driver). 4 different socket sets, 4 different wrenches, wire brush, the remaining can 1/2 can of PB Blaster, & purchasing a impact wrench + sockets (unable to get sockets on remaining bolts due to seat being in the way). Luckily I couldn't find a angle grinder to cut the bolt heads or frame legs off. I am sure that this would have cost me MUCH more as the sparks would have set the carpet soaked in PB Blaster afire - LOL. I did order a set of EZ Out Sockets from Amazon to attack the remaining bolts.... Day 3 - (1.5ish hours) - EZ Out Sockets didn't do any good as the seat is in the way..... I did find the allen heads that attached the seat to the frame rails. The front allens came out easy.... while I fought like hell to get my full grown hands crammed in the knuckle tall space between the floorboard and rail due to having to put the seat all the way to the rear in order to get access to the blind allen that barely cleared the seat frame. The allen wrench was bottoming out in the shag carpet - LOL. I was FINALLY able to remove the passenger seat from the frame. I ran out of light and patience for the evening while attempting to attack the blind rear allens on the driver side. Lord willing I can now get a straight approach with the EZ Outs and Impact wrench to remove the passenger side seat base as I don't want to cut, mangle, etc... the frames as i am not sure that the Corbeau Avanti Brackets will match up correctly to my Recaro's. - Does anyone know it they matchup??
SCPO-PD Posted February 13 Author Report Posted February 13 Day 4 (2ish Hours) of the Seat Removal Effort. - Seats have been removed and are ready for delivery to the upholstery shop. The EZ Out Sockets made a "little" headway but I will be buying a few metal blades for my oscillating tool. I did find out that RQB-3616 spent part of its life up north to include New Hampshire, Main, and Michigan based upon various business cards and receipts that I found under the seats. The some of the previous owners also enjoyed 50's & 60's R&B based on a couple of discovered cassette tapes and also enjoyed Forster's Lager.
SCPO-PD Posted February 15 Author Report Posted February 15 Seats have been removed and delivered to the upholstery shop for a complete rebuild.... On the the next job on the list.
SCPO-PD Posted February 25 Author Report Posted February 25 (edited) Finally got the seat frames out of RQB-3616. It took 2 carbide tip oscillating saw blades and an angle grinder but they are out!!! New sliding rails on order. Need to take the old ones off and get the frames cleaned and painted, I can also get the carpet scrubbed and cleaned. I also found a 10mm socket that can fit in the rails to remove the bolts allowing me to separate the sliding rails from the seat frame!!!! AWESOME - Just celebrating the small successes. Edited February 25 by SCPO-PD
SCPO-PD Posted March 6 Author Report Posted March 6 Well it has been a few days and I have made some progress on a few things.... 1) Replaced the missing lock on the gas cap door with a cabinet lock that I picked up from Lowes..... 2) "FINALLY" found a socket narrow enough to fit into the bolt in the slider rails. 3) Ordered "universal" slide rails and verified that they fit and all mounting holes align with the originals. Now I need to scrub, prime, & paint the original seat frames and get ready for receipt of the reworked seats. 4) Ordered new seat belts all around to include 2 Hot Pink lap belts for the Grand Daughter.... Yes I am wrapped. 5) 1 Front & 1 rear seat belt removed - Thank You EZ Out Sockets!!! More to follow.....
SCPO-PD Posted March 11 Author Report Posted March 11 Well all - This is where I currently stand... 1 - All seat belts removed and awaiting new ones to arrive. 2 - All seat frame bolts removed - only one casualty as I was working to get a front bolt out that I had to cut the head off earlier.... It FINALLY started to move some I quickly found out that the fiberglass and nut gave way... OH WELL I have ordered two of the "Avanti Seat Anchor Repair Devices" from Classic Enterprise and they will be in this week. 3 - I FINALLY pulled the Quick Jack 7000 out from last year's purchase and got it put together and filled & bleed. It is ready to go for the next task - replacing the power steering hoses. 4 - Interior has been thoroughly vacuumed. Thinking about dying it back to a shade closer to "Normal" after the scrubbing and steam cleaning. More to follow....
Zedman Posted March 11 Report Posted March 11 Hi SCPO-PD would you mind sharing how you went about removing the Rear Seat Armrest ?. The Seatbelt Retractor Spool is already removed and I unscrewed as many screws as I could see but the thing won't budge and I don't want to push my luck. The Rear Seat Back is still in place. Am I missing something ?
SCPO-PD Posted March 11 Author Report Posted March 11 11 hours ago, Zedman said: Hi SCPO-PD would you mind sharing how you went about removing the Rear Seat Armrest ?. The Seatbelt Retractor Spool is already removed and I unscrewed as many screws as I could see but the thing won't budge and I don't want to push my luck. The Rear Seat Back is still in place. Am I missing something ? Good Morning Zedman - The Rear Set Arm Rests are held down with two spring clips that feed through the top of the fiberglass frame. I found them by sheer accident as I was struggling to figure out how to remove the driver side arm rest cover. I was able to pop up the cushion by putting my fingers into the crevice of the arm rest and panel and popping it up. The second one (after failing to pop it up like the first one) I placed a long flathead screwdriver through the opening of the front seat seatbelt retractor and put it between the fiberglass frame and arm rest and was able to pop up the spring clips thus allowing the arm rest to tilt forward. The clips are very sturdy. If your hands and arms are small enough you can also access the clips through the access where the rear seatbelt retractors were but it is a interesting contortion act that I quickly gave up - LOL. Note that there might be a piece of rubber hose on the anchor bolt of the front seat belt helping to keep the armrest upholstery secure/attached at that bottom point..... admittedly I found that odd but quite effective.
SCPO-PD Posted March 11 Author Report Posted March 11 Well I got RQB-3616 up in the air with the new Quick Jacks and found that while I do need to replace the hose, after I research the parts for the ram and control valve (replace or rebuild). The original hoses were just filthy and no cuts, frays, or leaks.... I did tighten up the two screws on on the back end of the control valve. I also took the time to clean the valve and hoses up to inspect... Not able to see any leaks. In other words think I can shelve the job for a while and get some other Must Haves knocked out like the new battery cables, battery, and box. WOW that is one long and heavy duty + line going to the starter.... 5ish foot long!
Zedman Posted March 12 Report Posted March 12 12 hours ago, SCPO-PD said: Good Morning Zedman - The Rear Set Arm Rests are held down with two spring clips that feed through the top of the fiberglass frame. I found them by sheer accident as I was struggling to figure out how to remove the driver side arm rest cover. I was able to pop up the cushion by putting my fingers into the crevice of the arm rest and panel and popping it up. The second one (after failing to pop it up like the first one) I placed a long flathead screwdriver through the opening of the front seat seatbelt retractor and put it between the fiberglass frame and arm rest and was able to pop up the spring clips thus allowing the arm rest to tilt forward. The clips are very sturdy. If your hands and arms are small enough you can also access the clips through the access where the rear seatbelt retractors were but it is a interesting contortion act that I quickly gave up - LOL. Note that there might be a piece of rubber hose on the anchor bolt of the front seat belt helping to keep the armrest upholstery secure/attached at that bottom point..... admittedly I found that odd but quite effective. Thanks for the Info - much appreciated- I'll will eventually go and try this again with infomation behind me.
SCPO-PD Posted March 17 Author Report Posted March 17 (edited) Well it have been a BUSY few days and I have gotten some work completed on RQB-3616. She now has... 1 - I repaired driver side seat base attachment point by installing the Classic Enterprises Seat Anchor. I really wasn't a fan of the rivets as they were a tad to small in length - in my opinion. So I drilled them back out and replaced them with stainless screws and lock nuts. I was going to do the same for the passenger side but soon decided against it as the passenger side front seat sits atop the catalytic converter and there is a heat shield blocking access to the area where the rivets/screws would go... 2 - I replaced the battery cables and installed a new battery. 3 - I vacuumed and attacked the carpet with the wife's steam cleaner. It does look MUCH better and I was able to clean/de-mat some problematic areas. I can actually run my fingers through the deep pile. I will probably scrub it again before I put the seats back in. 4 - I looked at the power steering lines & control valve again as it looked like they were leaking again... I noticed that the valve could twist in the bracket???? I attacked the control valve again with cleaner in order to get all of the grime cleared and started the engine and had the wife turn the steering wheel a little while as I watched for any leaks.... Needless to say I didn't see any and the valve didn't twist or roll during the effort... 5 - I pulled the front wheels off as my son happened to grab hold of one and let me know that I had lots of movement / slop in them. Boy am I glad that he did this and that I followed up with it as the mounting bolts attaching the caliper bracket on the Turner Brake Conversion kit had started to back out allowing the caliper to start to wobble... I also took the time to check the front wheel bearings (repacked them as i thought I went a little to light on the grease last year) and repacked them and put a few more turns on the wheel nut as I seemed to have some play in the disc. 6 - I replaced the broken mirror in the glove box with a replacement mirror that I got from avantiparts.biz 7 - I put the rear sway bar back into the bushing on the driver side. 8 - I attacked two of the original wire rims (True Spoke) that are FILTHY and RUSTY w/ Bar Keeper's Friend and a drill attached brush. WOW do those wire spoke rims come back to life!!! I need to find a wheel that can fit between the wire spokes and the lip behind them along the outside edge. I purposely did not take any picture of this as they need more work. I am sure that I did a few more things but it is late and the old rememberer is calling for bed time... Edited March 30 by SCPO-PD Removed extra pictures
SCPO-PD Posted March 18 Author Report Posted March 18 (edited) Additional Progress as the weekend comes to a close... After an awesome day at Church, a Great lunch, and a afternoon nap..... I was able to get up and go out to the shop and rework the front Seat Frames. The passenger side frame was a booger bear to strip down while the driver's side gave up the ghost at the sight of the wheel. Anyway they are done and hanging out to dry for the evening.... Edited March 30 by SCPO-PD Removed extra pictures
Zedman Posted March 18 Report Posted March 18 You're working hard on your Avanti and it's great to hear your progress- more power to you , man. 👍
SCPO-PD Posted March 18 Author Report Posted March 18 9 minutes ago, Zedman said: You're working hard on your Avanti and it's great to hear your progress- more power to you , man. 👍 I want to take it out for a spin but don't think that I am up to doing so sitting on a 3 gallon bucket .... I haven't had it on the road since I put new tires on it last fall.... It will be ready for 4 May and Iron Chariots Car Show.
SCPO-PD Posted March 25 Author Report Posted March 25 (edited) Well I think that I a done on the interior work for a little while... until the seats come in from the upholstery shop. All Seat Belts have been installed (Yes the rear belts are Hot Pink for my oldest Grand Daughter - age 7 (She originally wanted pink stripes on the rear seat... I figured the belts were better)). Seat foundations have been installed. The original carpet has been scrubbed and vacuumed multiple times, and the interior leather has been cleaned and conditioned. I am looking forward to getting the seats in so that I can hit the road and put a few miles on it. I had to rework the rear seat belts as the originals mounted horizontally and the replacements were set to mount vertically (not a big issue as I simply needed to rotate the cover 90 degrees - after I popped it off, cut it, & taped it in place while covering any and all edges that may rub the new leather on the seats.) I also filled all of the "open" areas around the seat frame connection points that survived the rusted bolt removal w/ JB Wield and large fender washers between the fiberglass floorboard and seat foundations. For those points that didn't survive I also added large fender washers above and below the fiberglass along with the JB Wield around the holes to help close off the open areas that allow water to enter and rust out everything. The pictures below include backside pictures of the new hardware for the seat frames, backside of the rear armrests showing 2 spring pins that hold them in, seat belts w/ new hardware, etc... Edited March 30 by SCPO-PD Removed extra pictures
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