RQB 2897

[boogieman]

Thanks Glenn. I will check with them. Nothing left for comparison but I know the specs I need.

[GlennW]

Thanks Glenn. I will check with them. Nothing left for comparison but I know the specs I need.

My pleasure. Note they will have minimums and if you can't find what you need on the web page they may still have it. I buy 1000' at a time so I don't know what the minimums might be BUT if you look at the lower left of the Contact Us page there's a few resellers that would at least be able to listen to your needs. Good luck!

[boogieman]

Checking with ASC yesterday they have no clue or suggestions.

Looking at what they have to offer now, I got to thinking that possibly a "T" shaped

piece of flexible trim, siliconed to the roof-top and the vertical opening, would effectively

close the opening but still allow the roof panel to open and close against the inside lip of the molding

just as many new units do.

Was hoping to not have to attach anything to the roof horizontal surface but might find a suitable product

easier to locate and install.

[Gunslinger]

Give a call to Jon Myer and ask how he would handle it. I was at his shop about a year and a half ago and he had a complete NOS sunroof for an Avanti in his inventory...still boxed up. I don't remember if it was an ASC or Skytop unit...just that I was surprised to see it. It could be he could fabricate a matching piece using his NOS one for a template. He also has a number of Avanti parts cars...I can't say if any were equipped with a sunroof but maybe he does and can supply a good used seal...or again...use it for a template.

Dan Booth at Nostalgic would be another good source...he may have what you want as well. Just because vendors don't advertise items doesn't mean they don't have one or two floating around.

[boogieman]

Hadn't thought of that. I will contact them. Thanks for the heads-up.

[Paul K.]

I mentioned this on another thread about the ASC sunroofs some time ago.

The sunroof on my 76 was an ASC for sure, however, the glass in it was OEM Ford ". Carlite" and it was a BIG sunroof relative to the size of the Avanti. From its size I would bet it came from a 70s T-Bird or Lincoln.

Makes sense that ASC sourced its glass from a major auto company vs making their own when you consider the safety regulations sake and associated costs. ASC may have sourced more than the glass for your sunroof unit so I would first check your glass for any Ford Carlite markings or part number. Then take measurements of yours and go to a wrecking yard and find a T-Bird or Lincoln with a sunroof and see if they are the same.

I know, a lot of legwork, but Avanti IIs require a bit more diligence due to many things being being changed over the years and the factory's so-so record keeping.

[Gunslinger]

I've always been under the impression that Avanti Motors adapted their sunroof from a Lincoln...true or not I can't say. Avanti did a fair amount of adapting rather than going through the expense of original, custom designs for parts. If true...who knows what Lincoln but since it was during the '70s it would probably be a Mark III or a Mark IV...maybe even a Mark V after '77. I'm not aware whether the full-size Town Cars had sunroofs optional. My dad owned both a Town Car and a Mark IV during the '70s but neither had a sun roof.

I've always thought Avanti Motors' habit of adapting from other makes...while it might have made financial sense for a small auto company...resulted in service problems after the fact enthusiasts are paying the price for now.

[boogieman]

All that and the fact these units are now 30+ years in use, older tech guys retiring, retired,

and production changes and designs, make finding info on parts, not to mention parts themselves,

almost impossible to nail down. I've checked with ASC at the national and local levels

and no one there even has a clue what I am looking for. Their solution is to replace the complete

unit with a new one.

If mine did not work as well as it does, I would simply close it and seal it in place as a

skylight. But it does work so well I would like to maintain the functionality, and originality.

As to size, these are the biggest units ASC made being 36-7/8" x 19-1/4".

In a side note, anyone familiar with a true glass polishing compound or procedure?

For unknown reasons there are scratches in the glass that distract from the appearance.

[Gunslinger]

To learn about glass polishing and other car care techniques, go to http://autogeek.net. They have tutorials on most any aspect of care care...washing, polishing, waxing, etc. They sell many brands that can do what you want (you can also buy some of the same things locally). Autogeek has a great forum for asking questions and getting testimonials from others. You may not be able to eliminate the scratches, depending on how deep they are, but you can make them less noticeable.

If you would decide to buy any products from Autogeek, use the promo code "AVANTI10" and get a 10% discount.

I don't know how practical this suggestion might be, but there are companies that install manual, pop-up type sunroofs. You could always check with one of them and see whether a replacement of a power sunroof is by a manual type can be done. It may not be practical but it might be something to investigate.

[warren55]

You need cerium oxide to polish the glass. Check with a glass shop, they may have some. It's a rather messy process, but I've used it with some success. Glass is about as hard as chrome, so polishing out scratches is tricky! I have an aftermarket moon roof in my car. It works fine, but I'd stick with OEM if you can.

[boogieman]

I have no plans to replace the factory sunroof. It works great as is.

I'm all about preserving this car as-is.

I will eventually find something that will suffice for my needs.

Only major concern is for the leading edge of the glass frame rubbing against the

body when closed. I need something very thin to serve as a cushion.

I checked autogeek but saw only glass cleaning products, not polishing.

I saw a clip on Powerblock sometime back but have no idea what was used.

I'll find something and if it works I'll post the results for others.

[Gunslinger]

Check Griot's Garage...I know they have glass polishing compounds as I use them with my random orbital. I've also used regular polishing compound (not too abrasive). The rear glass on my Avanti had some bad scratches in it and using the proper techniques really cleaned it up...not perfectly but it's much less noticeable.

The fact is...to remove scratches from glass it means you have to remove more glass from the surface to match the scratched surface...as little as you dare but it's what you have to do. It's not difficult but you have to be careful.

[Paul K.]

I have heard that Eastwood's product below works very well. Not sure if it contains cerium oxide but you could probably find out.

http://www.eastwood.com/pro-glass-polishing-kit.html

[boogieman]

The scratches are deep enough to be to be felt and "caught" with a fingernail.

Very detectable and obvious. Seems that a lot of material would need to be removed to make go away.

I'm concerned that just removing material in those specific areas might leave a distortion there.

That I don't want either.

Thinking of checking with a glass shop about clear polymers used to repair chipped windshields.

Supposed to be clear and almost undetectable.

Appreciate all the heads-ups.

[boogieman]

Went by school to see the instructor yesterday.

To my surprise, over the holidays, he found an original, July '62 printed and copyrighted 1963 Avanti parts manual

in an old stack of literature he had. He gave it to me. It is in very good condition and complete.

Nice addition to my Avanti literature collection.

The front and back covers both feature the Studebaker "S" logo and "Endurance Built Products" slogan.

[Gunslinger]

That original parts manual is somewhat uncommon compared to the later, black cover manual. I'd store it and rely on the later manual to use as it's more complete. The '62 manual was probably completed before full production of the car was initiated and will not show some information and parts changes.

[boogieman]

Probably true for the most part and more-so for my '79.

But it is a piece of Studebaker/Avanti history and probably somewhat rare.

Being a July '62 printing it almost pre-dates actual manufacturing dates.

Interesting anyway.

[Gunslinger]

I'm sure it does pre-date actual production of the cars as they have to get such manuals to dealer service departments before they start actually getting cars in for service. The later edition includes updates and running changes.

[boogieman]

So in some respects this is a pre-production manual. Cool. Rare even.

Useful? Not so much.

A survivor from the ravages of time.

[boogieman]

The car is in the shop for repairs. Got the speedo gear # figured out for my tire/axle ratio. Need a 34 tooth. Ordered.

Having an issue with the master cylinder. Needs rebuilding or replacing.

Can anyone confirm that a Bendix #11515 is the correct replacement for my '79?

My mechanic is somewhat stumped at identification.

Getting the A/C up and running too.

Spring is coming and I plan on running the Texas roads.

[boogieman]

Found what I was looking for. The Bendix # 11515 is incorrect.

The correct one is Bendix #11642.

Or Wagoner # F75811

Or Raybestos # MC36248

Or NAPA # 101379 or 36249

Original application for late 60's to early 70's Ford and Mercury cars such as

T-Birds, Fairlane, Torino, and Marquis.

In a side note, my mechanic says that most 4 bolt mount master cylinders are for Mopar applications

and most 2 bolt mount cylinders are Ford applications, all generally speaking of course.

[boogieman]

Heard from my mechanic yesterday. They have the MC in hand.

The OEM A/C compressor is leaking at the rear seal and needs replacing.

Otherwise the A/C blows cold and works great.

The best option speedo drive gear, a 34 tooth, is in hand too.

Had to get a new Group 26 battery yesterday too.

Best part is there is a 2 year full warranty on all parts and labor.

Might have everything buttoned-up and ready for pick up by weeks end or the first of next week.

[boogieman]

Anyone know exactly how the tool pouch is secured to the trunk compartment bulkhead?

I removed the screws but the pouch seems to be attached around the perimeter to the carpet somehow.

Possibly a flap on the pouch extending through the carpet and secured from behind?

Not wanting to rip the carpet out, I'm stumped.

Plus, I can't get into the trunk to examine it.

I'm 6'-3" and 230# and cant reach the pouch from the outside.

[boogieman]

How about these issues.

I need a power antenna switch. Mine is broken off at the base of the switch,

flush with the jamb nut.

What does the interior manual trunk release handle look like? I see no evidence that my '79 ever

had one. Nothing in the location below the rear armrest or any indications there was ever anything there.

No cable or any connection to the release solenoid in the trunk.

An oversight or that rare "Delete" option? As if!

Are there supposed to be courtesy lights when the doors are opened? Can't find or see any indication of them either.

[Gunslinger]

Can't help you with the power antenna switch...don't even know if it's a manual switch or switched with the radio on/off.

The original trunk release cable...at least on earlier cars...is similar in appearance to the hood release handle...again...at least in earlier cars. If your car originally had one it would be obvious so it must have come with a power release...that it has a solenoid proves that. Someone must have removed the wiring or at least disconnected it. There was no solenoid used with the manual release cable. The power release button could be in one of three places...under the dash to the right or left of the steering wheel or inside the glove compartment.

You can test the solenoid by applying 12 volts to it and making sure it's grounded...the solenoid will either work or not. If it does, then either find the release button if there's still one and run a connection or add a momentary release button and wire it to the solenoid. I'm not sure of what amp fuse to use but the button should give an amperage value...the solenoid might have its specs stamped on its casing as well.

If the solenoid doesn't work, you should be able to find a replacement from a local automotive electrical supplier or from Nostalgic Motors or Myer's Studebaker.

Until you get that sorted out and a positive method of opening the trunk, keep a long screwdriver and flashlight in the car so you can open the trunk through the access panel in the rear shelf. I learned many years ago from others to leave the trunk unlocked unless you absolutely have to have security of what's inside. That reduces the wear on the trunk lock cable or solenoid.

The courtesy lights...again...on earlier cars...was the under dash light that illuminated the console that turned on and off when the doors opened and closed. The switches should be on the door bulkheads between the hinges. You can't use just any on/off switch...they cannot be self-grounding as with most cars due to the fiberglass body...they have to have a ground and hot wire.

The lights over the rear windows were illuminated manually...again...on earlier cars. After the mid 1970's, lots of little things were changed on the cars due to running out of original parts and new items sourced or due to changing costs or standards.