front parking lights on w/brake

[Tony S]

Ok , I did the Turner conversion today and couldn't get any pressure to the rear brakes, just a dribble when i cracked the bleeder. The conversion was going fine until that point. I soon figured out that the push rod for the master wasn't adjusted properly and the brakes weren't releasing all the way. After readjustment everything seemed fine. I noticed that the brake warning light to the right of the column was comming on and off when I hit the brake pedel with no particular rhyme or reason. I also noticed that the front parking lights are comming on every time I hit the brakes. My first thought was the directional switch/hazard switch but it works fine and the directionals and 4 way flasher are working fine and have no effect on the front parking lights. If I turn on the parking lights they stay on with no change when I hit the brakes or directionals. There is also another warning light under the dash behind the courtesy lamp. Anyone know what it is supposed to do?

[IndyJimW]

Could be one of two problems. Bad turn signal switch, easy way to check is to plug in a new switch at the base of the column and operate it. No sense in pulling the steering wheel if thats not it and easy to return part if not installed. A bad ground can cause problems like this, one way I check is to turn on parking lights and then apply brakes. If ground is bad the light with the BAD GROUND will go OUT with added load of brake circuit.

Jim Wood

Edited July 8, 2012 by IndyJimW

[Tony S]

I am thinking bad bulb or bad ground. I don't think its the directional switch because they and the 4 way flasher work fine. The both front lights that go on are definately the parking filimant. the directionals and 4 way are not affected. With the 4 way or directional on the parking lights in the front still stay on with no change in brightness. I am starting to think one of the rear bulbs is in wrong shorting into the parking lamp circut. That would provide power to all the lights in the parking circutwhen the brake is on I will try and see if the rear parking lamps and licsence plate come on with the brake. I will also pull the directional plug on the column just to see if there is any effect.

[Tony S]

Ok, Being uncomfortable with the m/c I replaced it and the brakes feel better and the dash light is out. Front parking lights still come on with the brakes and I can also see the dash lights come on. Based on that it is most likley the tail lights and plate light is comming on too. I think a rear bulb or rear light ground is the place to start looking. There is also a red light under the dash near the courtesy lamp that comes on too??Anyone know what is for. ??

[Gunslinger]

Electricity is a funny thing and it doesn't always make sense. Like water it always looks for the path of least resistance. You may have to examine your entire wiring harness for areas that are crushed or worn with exposed wiring which may touch metal...primarily ground wires. If it was a hot wire touching metal ground you would have blown fuses or smoke visible. Check under the dash, the windshield post and headliner area where the wiring goes to the over head switches, the trunk, under the rear seat, the engine bay, etc. It only takes one bad spot to create chaos that defies solution.

Years back I owned a '67 Dodge Charger with rotating headlights which didn't rotate. Nothing I did seemed to fix them. I was redoing the trunk and saw the rear wiring harness that went to the tail lights and found a crushed wire in it. I repaired it and suddenly the rotating headlights worked...and these were two different circuits! It just shows that current can do funny things and while an electrical engineer might understand the dynamics of it, it baffled me. You must have a worn wire grounding out and it's causing a reaction with the front lights and dash lights when the brake is depressed.

I would start with all the wiring related to the brake light circuit as that's what seems to be initiating the problem. Try taking your tail light bulbs out and see if the condition still exists. If it does, begin working forward. Also, disconnect the brake light switch and see if the problem still occurs. The wires to the brake light switch are exposed near the frame and could be worn and need repair. If the problem is there, I'd simply tape them off and install a mechanical brake switch under the dash...it's far more reliable than the hydraulic switch under the hood. It costs less than $10, is easily available and takes about an hour of your time to install.

[Tony S]

Problem solved, What do the brake lights and parking/ tail/tag/ lights have in common???????? Rear dual filiment bulbs. Turned on the parking lights and one was brighter than the other in the rear. I pulled the brighter and sure as $hit the filiment in the tail lamp was burnt and welded its self to the brake filiment anchor point so when you step on the brake, the filiment acted like a jumper wire and energized the all the running lights and dash lightsreplaced the bulb and all is well.

[Gunslinger]

Glad it turned out to be a simple solution.

[Devildog]

Problem solved, What do the brake lights and parking/ tail/tag/ lights have in common???????? Rear dual filiment bulbs. Turned on the parking lights and one was brighter than the other in the rear. I pulled the brighter and sure as $hit the filiment in the tail lamp was burnt and welded its self to the brake filiment anchor point so when you step on the brake, the filiment acted like a jumper wire and energized the all the running lights and dash lightsreplaced the bulb and all is well.

Thanks for posting solution to brake-lights problem. Many do not...thanks

Joe