grant mills

Thanks. While my horn still works, I will rebuild the connection. The wire is completely missing between the two connection points.

i just noticed that my 84 Avanti has 2 stubs of wires on either side of a rubber isolator that separates the shaft from the steering box. I am guessing that at one time there was a wire connection there but have no idea when/how it broke or even the importance of it. Anyone have any ideas/reasons comments?

The reservoir is attached by two bolts that drop down from the bottom of the reservoir and through the flat firewall that the reservoir sits on. From under the dash on the drivers side, you can reach up and feel the two nuts on the bolts that hold it in place. You can see the nuts if you are double jointed, lying on your back, with your head touching the brake pedal. Once the nuts are removed, the reservoir will pull straight up.....If you think that you may be needing to remove it many times (say to fix a leak that can't be easily fixed) When reinstalling, I used velcro adhesive strips (after covering the two holes in the firewall) and simply attached the tank in that manner. I will come off with not much effort and it will not come off from normal (aggressive) driving.

I had new front coil springs installed last summer and now the car has negative rake. The rear springs (5 leaf standard duty) are flat from front to back. I can get a local shop to make me a set, but I need all the specs. I have the workshop manual which gives all sizes except the height at the arch. The front tire has 1.25" greater clearance from tire top to fender opening than the rear tires. At one time I had 225-70 rear and 225-60 front, which gave me a nice rake, but that was before I replace the tires with the original factory size and added the new front coils. I should note that the locally produced ones will be about 1/2 the price of the "Eaton Detroit Spring" set after currency exchange, duty, and shipping costs are included.

In '96 I installed a "door w/s kit" from Nostalgic for my '84. You can try Dan Booth to see if he still has some.

mfg, Can I assume that my 84 has the same opening as the 83? My Bluapunkt has died and I am wanting to replace the cassette deck unit with something more modern.

The alternative to the spacers is: remove the (wider) flange/rubber from the base of the old shock and use it to replace in the flange in the new shock. I had already tossed the old shocks when I learned this.

Any front shock that you buy today will have an issue. That base flange is 3 inches side-to-side, while the mounting holes are 3.5 in. apart on centre. I jury rigged extensions for each side using flat stock of the correct width that enclosed the outer edges of the flanges and had a slot in the middle to extend the flange. I also made a spacer from the flat stock to cover both the original flange and the extension to keep everything in place....There is a description of all this in my posting in the 84-91 forum under the name "front coil springs"

mfg, could you give the part number of the specific radio you got? There appear to be numerous models of 630 receivers. My Blaupunkt has died and I am looking for alternatives to repairing, including an upgrade in capability. Also did it easily integrate with the power antennae?

I had moved to the 225/70 on the rear end to get my speedometer back to accurate. The tires on it when I bought it were so small that the speed read 10% higher than I was actually going. It took a 10 mile measured distance (provided by the highways dept.) to show me why I never got any speeding tickets. I liked the more aggressive look/width of the B.F. Goodrich tires, but had to put a smaller circumference on the front to keep from rubbing the inner fender well on sharp/fast corners. The newer suspension may have corrected that problem, but I really want to be able to need only one size of spare. I still need to fix the steering control valve to get the handling I remember from days of old.

It only took me about 5 minutes to put both flex hoses back on. But as I did it, I got to wondering why someone doesn't just make a short conversion piece that fits over the oval and then expands to a circle to accept the flex hose. I think a simple 3D printer could easily make one, given the dimensions of each end

My flex hose is off, as yesterday I replaced the fuel filter in the carb housing. (hoping to correct a very recent failure where the engine dies as I come to a stop). I well know about the problems with the flex hose and have considered getting replacements but fear the "fun" of installing them. As to the brake....there are no brands stamped on the housing. There are 2 sets of numbers, one for the master cyl. and the other for the fluid reservoir. The number on the master cyl is: 7K3 082A 10 02 (with the spacing as shown). The reservoir is: 306 FA 1379A. I may be wrong about the FA..it may be PA, but I could not get all the crude off the side of the housing

photo of my original brake master cylinder from an 84 Avanti. The label on the booster is to indicate DOT 5 only.

to MFG: Now that the installs fro front springs and shocks are completed, I feel that the front end is just a bit higher than I am used to....of course this can be explained by the fact that the rear leaf spring have all the curve of a carpenters level. But I had also moved to 195/75-15 all round from the 225/70-r15 rear and 225/60-r15 front that had been on the car for 25 years

I am looking for a source for a complete rebuild kit for my control valve. It is (hopefully) the last thing needed to restore the steering to its previous perfect. I was simply going to have the valve seals replaced, and then the garage showed me the looseness where the ball stem connects to the pitman arm. And yes, the engine was running at the time they were testing it. I have seen a few articles in the forum showing the rebuild steps (including the fun with pitman arm removal), but none of them seemed to indicate where the rebuild kit could be acquired. I know that I can remove the assembly and send it out to Dave Thibault or Dan Booth for repair, but that would mean I have to get under the car and remove it myself. I would prefer to give the kit to a shop I deal with and let them do the removal and rebuild....(it feels like I already spent the summer under the car working on the steering/suspension). SO again, does anyone know of a vendor that sell rebuild kits that will work for the Avanti control valve? There are no new ones to be had and even RockAuto cancelled my order for their rebuilt LARES 64 after realizing that they had none. thanks in advance, grant