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Posts posted by studequest
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- Jolly-John
- Pulled out control valve and sent to John Meyers for Exchange (we got the entire system out in 45 minutes)
- Heater core cleaned and pressure tested.. No Leaks Tested Motor
- Replaced hoses though not needed
- Waiting to reassemble.. (Fiberglass did break on the baffle with the vent pull.. We will make a shroud out of aluminum and reassemble
- Thanks everybody!!
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STUDEGARY:
I am a fixer. I like the original equipment working. We dismanteled the entire system in 45 minutes. Core was pressure tested and cleaned.. no leaks
New control valve ordered from Meyers and core mailed in. New hoses obtained. Tested heater motor, works fine. Should be back together next week
Thanks everyone...…...…………...
JLBKY - I looked for 3/4 inch t handle ball valves at Ace hardware and could not find
I am unclear how the balvalve adjusts the temperature
there are 2 hoses into the control valve one in and one out so would you not need 2 ball valves?
thanks
kjw
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Hello Friends: I notice that I am getting a leak in passenger compartment of coolant NOT WHEN DRIVING BUT WHEN I TURN ENGINE OFF
It appears to be coming up by the capillary tube near the control valve (I have a radio in the way, need to remove it)
WHO HAS TIPS AND TRICKS HOW TO PROCEED AND HOW TO CHECK THE CORE
WHAT IS THE INNER DIAMETER OF THE HEATER TUBING...On person suggested putting in Ball Valves at the fire wall.
THANK YOU.. WILL START WORK TOMORROW WEDS 10/16/2019. Hope to take pictures to post -
Ok, we seem to have gotten off track. I bought a pump from Meyers and sent mine for exchange
Turns out my original pump all these years was assembled incorrectly. I also had leakage from my reservoir due to a Ford type top in place that had the spout for filling. Went to standard lid with wing nut and proper threaded stud. Steering is much improved
Thanks everyone
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Drove my friends 60 T bird convertible with Eaton Pump
Wow, the steering (same set up as Avanti) is feather light
We will install the rebuilt pump and go through the system
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effect on steering and use of power pump is??????????????
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There is definite leakage
I have a rebuilt on order// would you just replace it!!
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not seeing any mods or suggestions on the steering
if my pump failed or was wearing out what would i experience?
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yes steering ratio
non power cars 22 to 1
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FRONT END JUST ALLIGNED// ALL NEW TIE ROD ENDS, BUSHINGS ETC
16:1 ASPECT RATIO
225X75X15 TIRES
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Rob we believe it is but how do you adjust it
we can do that before replacing it
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Friends:
I have had to muscle my car with "power steering" ever since I purchased it 9 years ago. On the road its fine Turning a corner its "OK" you feel a delay before you get a surge. not great- Back up parallel park "fuggedaboutid".
i HAVE REBUILT THE RAM. I HAVE NEW HOSES. i HAVE ALL NEW FRONT END PARTS. My PS cannister does leak and it will be attended to. I have purchased a rebuilt pump from Meyers. He tells me the output of the pump is 800-1000 PSI. I am buying a gauge and getting an adapter fitting to check my existing pump pressure before switching it out and I am hoping to drive my friend's 64 Avanti to get a feel of another car. Am I missing anything.; anybody with suggestions. What do others do?
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Does anybody have or can refer me to a wiring diagram for the original avanti foot operated wiper switch
It has 6 wires and it does link into the back of the dash mounted wiper switch
Also anybody with an Avanti Courtesy Light (one behind the driver seat in the haeadliner
Thanks,
Keith
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This is what I am being told
keith
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I think we agree on that
my issue was how people felt about removing the choke plate and having no choke
My mechanic friends who build all kind of cars - cobras and other vintage cars - say choke is not necessary and they don't use it
If really pushed they offer me to put in a cable choke rather than the electronic thermostatic spring type we see in the 50-s 60s cars
My 53 stude has a cable operated choke
comments
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Thanks Gunslinger
All was working fine and then boom just stopped
I noticed my parking lghts were not working and I removed them and cleaned the terminals and reinserted and they worked fine
I will use a test light
I thought it might be the driver door switch until I checked the trunk and Glove Box
I downloaded the wiring schematic
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Surging occurs as you step into it
no problems with overheating
no problems with starting with the choke
I describe it as missing
Plugs checked, gaps correct no fouling of plugs
there is but 15,000 miles on this engine rebuild
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I have a supercharged Avanti Engine in my 1955 Conestoga
Automatic Transmission
Pertronix
Edlebrock Marine Carburetor
Electric and original fuel pump
Air conditioning
I was having surging issues
My Boost Pressur is 3 to 4
I was making very good vaccum
My fuel pressure was about 10
My mechanic felt the issue was the choke plate and he removed it
He said the car ran much better
I have not driven it
I am concerned about no choke and I am wondering about the logic of this approach
(I can see that if the choke did not disengage, I would essentially be running a 2 barrel carb
I should also add that I have a kick down solenoid which is not functioning and I have been advised by John Erb and Craig Conley to just leave it out of the circuit and not replace it
Your thoughts??
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Thanks Rob, yes I figured that
which fuse I checked them all
anybody with a link to a good wiring diagram
thanks
Keith
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ALL OF A SUDDEN MY LIGHTS ARE OUT
TRUNK/INTERIOR/GLOVE/COURTESY
ALL FUSES ARE IN TACT
DOOR SWITCHES WERE WORKING
THOUGHTS?
KEITH
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ALL OF A SUDDEN MY LIGHTS ARE OUT
TRUNK/INTERIOR/GLOVE/COURTESY
ALL FUSES ARE IN TACT
DOOR SWITCHES WERE WORKING
THOUGHTS?
KEITH
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Great show
I was there as well
Keith Wahl
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Hi guys.
Thanks for the advice
I did hold the accelerator down and was thinking I flooded the car
after atomizing with starter fluid (and it takes but a drop) I notice the idle is not high as it would be with the choke on.. but the choke is functioning
It is the original Prestolyte distributor and I can have that checked
Pressure gauge in line to carburetor a good thought or forget it
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Hello Friends:
1963 R1 with air
NEW BATTERY, REBUILT CARB,. GOOD SPARK PLUG WIRES, CLEAN PLUGS, ORIGINAL DISTRIB, ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP
I have noticed of late, after sitting for a few weeks> car is hard to start. Needs a nip of starting fluid
Lights off and runs fine.
BUT> i want it to start without the hassle of the kick of 'joy juice'
Will electronic ignition help me?
Pertronix or
Dave Thiebauilt system with Mallory distributor he sells or
can I keep my original distrib and use pertronix and if so which model #
Should I add a fuel pressure gauge to the line?
Much appreciated
Keith
FUEL INJECTION FOR 1963 AND 200 R4 TRANSMISSION SET UP
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted
My car is a 1963 R1 Avanti with air conditioning
We embark on rebuilding the engine…..
Anyone who has converted the factory automatic to a 200R4
I would like to know what problems you had, how happy you are with the result
For the transmission issue what do you do for the shift linkage in the car as it is no longer 1,2 D
it is 1,2,3 D
Finally do you change your rear end from 3.31 to 3.73 or other
Thanks Keith
Keith Jay Wahl MD FACS
8735 Nottingham Place
La Jolla California, 92037
858-5182190 email: kwahl@san.rr.com