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Posts posted by studequest
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Thanks Silverstude
It strikes me the FMX is the easier option
What mods are required? Starter, torque converter, drive shaft?
Thanks
Keith
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Who out there has swapped their original transmission for any of the following:
1. 700 R4
2. 200 4R
3. FORD FMX
Can you share your build experience regarding: Any info regarding problems, costs ultimate results is greatly appreciated
1. WHAT IS THE BEST FIT
2. WHAT BRACKETRY DID YOU HAVE TO MAKE OR PURCHASE AND FROM WHERE
3. WHAT DID YOU DO WITH YOUR REAR END
4. WHAT DID YOU DO WITH YOUR DRIVE SHAFT
5. WHERE DID YOU SOURCE YOUR TRANSMISSION OR DID YOU FIND A CORE AND HAVE IT REBUILT
6. RECOMMENDED VENDORS FOR NEEDED PARTS
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WHLNUT-- I PUT IN THE AIR DAM AND I PUT DYNAMAT IN THE INTERIOR
IT IS STILL HOT!
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GLENW poor performance in D and in 1st...Stock torque converter stall speed should be 2100... rpm
I tested stall speed by holding brake and accelerating to stall and it was about 1200 rpm
Clearly something wrong with this torque converter.. It is either worn out or is the wrong converter
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Yes 1963r2 the inner cable was broken 2 feet down line. The speedo dial turns so apparently gauge is ok
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Brad are you selling the kits.. How do you install and how much are they?
Keith Wahl
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Brad Bez Thanks for that Tip
Would this be needed if the car was on a lift? I am a little confused how this would work with a lift..I am planning to have a transmission shop do all of this
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REAR END IS 3.31...
i start in Drive. Even in 1st gear the car lugs until it gets to 1500 RPM and it has always been like that even before the engine was rebuilt.
Thus I believe it is a torque converter issue
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The stock Avanti Torque converter has a stall speed of about 2100 RPM
The code on the converter is HR with numbers following
As it turns out, my converter is HH meaning that the transmission was probably worked on at
some time and a different torque converter was used. I checked the stall speed by putting foot on
brake and revving engine until it stalled and I got to no more than 1200 rpm.. so I have no
low end torque and it does not appear to be a matter of timing or carburetion. ( carburetor was
rebuilt by an exoert no more than a week ago) I believe I sourced an HR converter which can be rebuilt
The trick will be to pull the transmission without pulling the engine.. Can be done by those who have the experience
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Gunslinger, I did send them an email... Do you know anyone who has done this conversion and what do they think about it
Keith
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Studegary.. this is how it performed even with my old engine..
I had a picture of the torque convertor when it was oput and you could see the stamping on it. I sent that to Jim Pepper.. Granted it was not the best photo and you had to magnify it. Here is what he said
According to the shop manual for both the Avanti or regular passenger cars, none of the production converters have your marking. The Avanti had an “S” stamped in it and was painted with red primer. Avanti powered Larks and Hawks got no stamping and were painted black. These torque converters had a stall speed of 2100 RPM minimum. The standard production converters had FT stamped in them and had a stall speed of 1750 – 1850 RPM behind a 289. I am guessing that your trans was rebuilt at some time in its life and a stock type replacement torque converter was used. This would explain the sluggish performance.
So: NEW ENGINE, COMPLETELY REBUILT CARBURETOR, TIMED AT 10 DEGREES BEFORE TDC, TESTED WITH VACCUUM AND AGAINST THE CURVE OF THE DISTRIBUTOR, WHICH IS DAVE THIEBUALT'S MOPAR DISTRIBUTOR AND THE PERFORMANCE TAKE OFF FROM DEAD STOP IN FIRST GEAR IS THE SAME. YOU DO NOT GET ANY POWER IN
1ST GEAR UNTIL ABOUT 1500 RPM
I know I am the third owner because I know the person I bought if from very well and he purchased the car from a long term friend. I have some original paper work back to 1992 at which time the car had 51,000 miles and it now has 74,000 miles.
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Stuart, mine gets hot as well... annoying!
keith
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Has anyone converted the R1 Automatic Transmission to a 700 R4
What parts are needed, who are best suppliers for those parts and if you farmed it out, what could one expect for labor?
I know a trans from summit is about 1700- $2000
Thanks Keith
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CRAIG CONLEY IN VISTA CALIFORNIA
PARADISE WHEELS
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We just rebuilt our R1
New everything including b;lock, heads, crank, cam valves.. you name it
I would recommedn using all your original parts if you can. Highly recommend Phil Harris of Fairborn Studebaker for parts and guidance
He is terrific
Keith Wahl
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A few years ago I replaced the pinion gear in the rear end. Car has been idle for 4 months while engine was rebuilt
I noted the speedo was a little skiddish,, but it was accurate based on Freeway speed signs.
THEN .,... NOTHING.... likely causes> This is an R1 with automatic.
Thanks Keith
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what unit did you use?
Keith Wahl
Like your wheels I have the same!!
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Anyone else getting over 20 gallons
Anyone with fuel gauge reading issues
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NIFTY IDEA GUNSLINGER
Well., I put in a new sending unit and clearly it is not correct because it is not moving past 1/4 tank and as I ran out of gas today that is clearly not
Normal so my new empty will be at 1/4.. When I filled up I had 18.6 gallons and it was not all the way full so I believe it must be a 20 gallon tank
I plan to go off mileage at 12 ,pg so a total of about 210 miles between fill ups PLUS a 2 gallon gas can in the trunk!!!
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I BELIEVE IT IS THE ORIGINAL 3.31
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Avanti Brethren:
i am looking for thoughts on this.
Does anyone think this could be a carburetor issue even though it was rebuilt
Would anyone change this to an Eddlebrock and if so ... which one?
I have a 63 R1 automatic. The engine has been completely rebuilt
It has the original trans and rear end: I am a bit disappointed that my take off in first gear is about what I had before I rebuilt the When you start in first the car lugs until about 1500 to 1700 RPM until it will get some power
Here are the stats
The current idle is 500.. BOB Halgren made an adjustment but it seems to be at 500
The timing is 10 degrees
The op temperature is about 170
The oil pressure is 60
The original carter carburetor was completely rebuilt with its accelerator pump and check valve
There is no dieseling and no pre-ignitionFROM JIM PEPPER:I am only guessing but I'll bet the advance curve is slow. This is the
advance versus RPM curve. Study the graph and you will see that it starts at
about 700 - 800 engine RPM and goes up from there. When you had the engine
out did you look for the proper ID code on the torque converter? (I DID NOT CHECK THIS) A stock
converter will give sluggish off idle acceleration as I mentioned several
months ago.Thanks Keithanyone who wants to call or textKeith..858 5182190kwahl@san.rr.com -
THERE IS AUDIBLE PISTON SLAP, EXTENSIVE SMOKING
I WILL BE DOING A COMPRESSION TEST BEFOR WE PULL OUT AND WE CAN CHECK VALVES, BUT I BELIEVE IT IS A DEEPER ISSUE
I BELIEVE WE HAVE 180, 000 MILES ON THE ENGINE AND IT HAS ALWAYS SMOKED.. MUST SAY THAT IT HAS 60 LBS OIL PRESSURE
THANKS
KEITH
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You bring up very good points Here is the path I am going on right now.. I would like to keep the car as close to what it came with. I have to rebuild the engine
Tell me more about the Positraction
this car has always smoked even though performance has been good, but I am getting piston slap and I am smoking too much now
I checked the variety of fuel systems I was thinking of; HOLLEY SNIPER, EFI AND EDELBROCK
While these appear to be straight forward the parts and labor probably approaches $3000
I suspect I am into engine for $4500
Transmission could be another $2500 soooooooo
1. I am keeping my standard carburetor for now
2. I am changing the rear end to 3.73 gears
3. I will then test the car to see what I have..
Thanks for the response.... Keith
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What year is this avanti
That box on the supercharger looks custom
Does this car have Air conditioning
What did you do about a return line.. How do you get it up to the gas tank behind the seat?
I see your fuel pump is on the frame- how many PSI and L/Hr?
TRANSMISSION TALK- 700 R 4,//200 4R,//FMX
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted
Thanks Bob: A trans shop indicated the Bell Housing on the FMX was huge and would require a lot of fab
On the FMX what do you use for a shifter. Do you need a different starter and a cable for the Carb?
They were not fans of the 200r4..Wondering what others feel.
From another post I see the 700 R4 requires a lot of fab If I get ready to do this could I get your contact phone NumbeR
We just rebuilt our torque converter and increase the stall speed. I have a brand new engine and I have some performance tweaks I can do
If this does not increase performance, I will consdider the swap. I have a 331 rear end
I am told you should go to 373 for the 700 R4
what did you use for your FMX
Keith