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JLBKY

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Posts posted by JLBKY

  1. IF it is the Temp Control Valve.................Do you need the heater? My car is never driven in the Winter, so when my Heater Control Valve began to leak, I removed it and installed a Ball Valve under the dash in the same location as the temp control valve. Should I have the need for the heater (Doubtful), I can easily reach up under the dash and adjust the ball valve for the temp I need.

    JB

  2. On 9/21/2019 at 3:59 AM, JLBKY said:

    I've never found any that is an exact match. I bought some that I consider very close at Home Depot, of all places. It was on a large roll on a rotating device that held many rolls of floor covering, and sold by the running yard.

    JB

    I pulled the carpet I bought out today as I was putting some parts away. Tucked inside the roll was the receipt.

    Purchased in August of 2016

    The SKU on the receipt is     000-423=714    6' carpet

    6' Dayside Ebony Carpet 

    I previously stated it was sold by the running  yard. The receipt leads me to believe it is sold by the running foot as I bought 10 , and I would not have bought 10 yards. $4.50 per foot and it is 6 feet wide.

    Call Home Depot and ask them if they stock it. It is very close. to the OEM. Hope this helps.

    JB

     

  3. You asked about the "vent line" extending to the bottom of the tank and acting as a siphon. I'm rather certain that it does not extend into the tank as you described. In my opinion, the only  certain way to determine the source of the leak in the gas tank, is to pull the back seat and the rear panel behind the rear seat, so as to get a good look at the tank

    Before I'd pull the back seat etc., I'd look at the fitting on the bottom of the tank that connects the tank to the fuel line. Is it leaking there? Inspect the fuel line around the left rear axle that is/was covered with a rubber tube. The gas line is known to rust there.

    Once you pull the rear seat and panel, check the sending unit and the return fuel line fitting, as well as the hoses described in the above post. Good time to replace  ALL of these rubber fuel  lines/hoses.  Make sure you use a good quality hose that can handle today's crap gas.

    IF you have to pull the tank, you MUST remove the fitting on the bottom of the tank to get it out.

    John

  4. I'll weigh in on this..............I use the exact same Do Nut spare as does Bob in the response posted just above this post. My reason for going in this direction is that I have a Twin Traction Rear End and I was concerned that the rear tires on my car are 215/70 X15 and IF I had to mount the  spare to get it off the highway, I needed a spare that is the same overall diameter of the 215/70 X15 tire, as the clutches in the rear end will become "confused" with a smaller tire on one side, and result in self destruction............so I'm told.

    BTW..........I went to a local Pull A Part and found the same Do Nut that Bob described above for around $10.00 as I recall.  Brand New. Never been on the ground.

    One other thing as long as we are discussing spare tires. My '63 had no prevision for securing the spare tire , jack etc. and consequently those items would rattle. My solution, some 20 years ago or so, was to weld a washer to the bolt  ( remove the bolt to weld the washer.........but before you remove it, mark it with a sharpie as to the direction  you want the washer when you reinstall the bolt ) in the tire well that goes through the fiberglass tire well and threads into the rear crossmember, and use a "J" hook and Winged Nut, to tighten the tire down. I place the folding jack handle under the tire, so that when the tire is tightened down it holds the jack handle in place with no rattles. I have the original jack, and I keep that from moving around and rattling, by using  Heavy Duty Velcro ( from Home Depot ) to cover the bottom of the jack, and the corresponding depression in the tire well. Bottom line .......No Rattles. As I recall the "J" hook and related parts I used to do this came from an early Tarus,

    John

  5. There are many suppliers of seat belts...........you need to look in the after market area, street rods, custom motor homes, aircraft interior upholstery suppliers, etc.

    If you wind up getting belts made, and need the hardware, buckles etc., I have some.

    JB

  6. Ron, it has been many years since I worked on my gas tank, and I don't recall exactly where on the top of the tank the vent was located, but I do recall that when it came out of the sailpanel ir exited through the floor not into the wheel well. FYI.......my car is #1348.

    I replaced that vent tube, up into and out of the sail panel. Not an easy job , but it can be done. Things to check.........Is the sender tight to the tank? It could be the source of vapors. Check the fitting and hose on the bottom of the tank for any dampness or leaks. Same with the return line. Check for cracked welds or soldering Gunslinger already mentioned the filler pipe connection.

  7. I received a text message from the fella that did this conversion. The core he used is from an '86 Bronco. The Inlet/Outlet Tanks were swapped. He was quick to point out that the soldering of the Avanti  Inlet/Outlet tank onto the Bronco core is a delicate procedure best done with a small torch .................. and don't overheat it.

    John

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