JLBKY
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Posts posted by JLBKY
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Anyone know Neil Grant from Canada? Or how to contact him? I lent him a 1/4 window frame some time ago, as he was working on getting new rubber seals made.It appears that the 1/4 window seal project is dead, and I need to get the frame returned. No response to E-mails I've sent. Any help will be appreciated.
John Brissette
Louisville Kentucky
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Either from the top as Ron said, or from the bottom, the bar is placed so as to put pressure on the pulley assembly and thus tighten the belt.I have a lift so it makes this easier to do. But my "helper", takes the long bar and places it so that he can leverage it on something and thereby take the slack out of the belt. Get a bar about 2 1/2 feet long and place it in various positions, top or bottom, to determine what will work for you. It is not that difficult, but I've never been able to do it alone.
John
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Yes. Loosen the idler pulley, slide it up and remove the belt. I find that tightening the pulley is somewhat difficult from the "top". I do it from below, and have a second set of hands apply pressure with a long bar, as I tighten the pulley. The space in front of the idler pulley is very limited as I recall, and getting a wrench or socket in there is "tight". I welded a socket to a piece of pipe and it easily goes on to the bolt in the front of the pulley.
John
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My car has a number stamped on the X cross member, but the car has been put up for the winter, so I can't easily confirm what numbers are there.
IF, you are looking for the serial number on the frame, I found mine on the cross member where the top of the shocks mount. It is very faintly stamped , but it can be read.I have the advantage of owing this car for 46 years and it has always been garage kept, and only driven in dry weather, thus no rust on the frame. As slight a stamping as there is, I can imagine that it could be very difficult to see it on a car with a rusty frame.Should I have to move the car that is under the Avanti I'll get a photo of the number and post it.
John
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What Stan said X2
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I would suggest that you some thought to the wiring that supports the alternator. You are going from 40 Amps to 80 Amps.........is the existing wiring up to handling double the amps if called upon to do so?
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On 4/23/2018 at 9:58 AM, Stormy said:
Thanks for the thoughts on the front plate. I, too, like the look without the front plate. I notice Studebaker International has a plate bracket for the front, but cannot tell from the catalog sketch just what it looks like. Montana did issue two plates when I got my Vintage Plates.
I read your post regarding the Two Vintage plates to say that two plates are not the norm in Montana. I live in Kentucky, and when you register an antique car here you are given two plates as well. The plate is permanent, as long as you own the car. Kentucky is a single plate state and the reason they give you two plates, is that is because it is permanent if it is damaged, faded etc., you have a replacement. They do not issue two with the requirement that one be front mounted. Can't speak for Montana, but you might want to look into the requirements for displaying antique tags.
JB
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Devildog.......I rewired my '63 windows and used relays . Made a panel to fit in the opening Mounted the relays to the panel along with a Terminal Block for all of the wiring connections. One caution, make sure the relays are mounted such that they do not interfere with the window going down. I can send you a photo or two if you would like.
I see you live in Houston. I lived there twice,late 70's and late 80's
John
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X2 what Peddler said. I've had a 3EE AGM Battery in my Avanti for many , many years. No problems what so ever. It stays connected to the correct charger when not being driven. Expensive yes, but you will not be disappointed and you'll get many years of trouble free service.
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Chris.........do you have a Parts Book? If not, you should get one. It will show you how the Tach and Speedo are held in place. As I recall,( it's been 15-20 years since I did this last ) there is a UI shaped bar, on both, that holds them tight to the dash, with two small nuts. Remove the wiring, from both, and the speedo cable, and both should come out from the front easily. With , both out, you can now get both hands in there to remove the sender, change the light bulbs in the adjacent four gauges, etc..
John
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avantibngrant............can you please bring us up to date on this project. Is your CAD work completed? Will Valerie, in fact, reproduce these seals............if you know?
Keep the channel frame I sent you, as long as you like, but I would like it back.
John
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What Gunslinger said X2
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12 hours ago, arkus said:
i'm putting a new aftermarket '70 chev. nova aluminum radiator in my '63. the radiator has a conventional fill so am eliminating the stock surge tank. does anyone know of an upper hose that will go from a now regular studebaker thermostat housing to the radiator in one piece? i know 2-piece kits are available; not what i want. this is a first step in a longer range plan to "r-2" this car with air, when the surge tank has to be eliminated. perfectly open to ideas. thank you.
arkus..........P.M. sent to you.
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John, I struck out on the "over the driver's door " L moulding, although I believe I found either a right or left side "over the 1/4 window" (short) L moulding.
Thanks . The driver's door piece is the only piece I need.
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I have a couple of those 'L's in my parts stash.....I highly doubt I have the one you need, but I promise to look this weekend.
If I should have it, it is of no use to me, and you can have it for postage cost.
Thanks.............I'll be on a trip for several weeks, so IF you find it, I'll be awhile getting back to you. Very limited Internet availability where I'm going.
Thanks
John
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Interesting story!...and yes, I don't see why the 'L' shaped trim AND the drip rails can't be used together.....might actually be a nicer look!....a bit more 'shiny stuff'!!
I was think the same thing! So, I'm back in the hunt for Part # 1351037, for the left side.
Thanks
John
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These 'L' shaped pieces you're inquiring about are found on Avantis built without drip rails...correct?....And they were removed if and when a set of drip rails were later installed on a Studebaker Avanti post-production?
Well...............I have no idea. I'm not suggesting you are incorrect, I just don't know. If what you stated is correct, then I don't need the piece.
Hopefully there will be a few more replies clarifying what is correct.
Thanks for your reply.
John
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I'm looking for the Stainless Steel Trim piece ( Part # 1351037 ) for the driver's side that goes between the top horizontal weather strip ,at the top of the driver's roll up window, and the body. It is not the drip rail. This piece is on '63's up to serial # 4420. It is "L" shaped and 29 1/2 inches long. The short leg of the "L" is 1/4 " and the long leg of the "L" is 7/8". The long leg of this "L" shaped piece has 6 "U" shaped notches stamped into it so it can be slid in between the weatherstrip and the body and secured with the weather strip attaching screws.
I have 3 pieces of 1351036 , the right side version of this trim. I'd trade a right for a left or purchase out right.
Thanks
John
502 773 05 nine two
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Thanks John,
I have the shop manual but couldn't find my answer in there. After I posted this I went out and still could see how this would come off? There were no visible screws. So I grabbed both sides and it lifted right off. LOL. It was a easy and fast removal of the shifter. I will reweld the the bracket and hope this will allow me to get my 1st back again. I will post if this turns out to be the issue.
Thanks
Jim
As I recall, the 4 screws are located in the corners of the vertical sides, and required that I push the seat bottom cushion down so as to get a phillips head screw driver on the screw head. With the piece removed, look for the original screw holes in both the piece you removed and the console body that is attached to the tunnel.
John
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Jim..........this is not difficult. Remove the four screws that hold the upholstered piece in place. Once removed the rest is straight forward. I'd caution you to take care when unscrewing the chrome ball on the gearshift, as there is a spring below the black button.A parts book is your best friend as you approach these things. Get one if you don't have one.
Hope this helps
John
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There are two versions of this lens. The factory original has a "chrome" ring around the perimeter of the lens. The later replacement version does not have the "Chrome". I have both versions.
John 502 773 0592 or j-lbrissette at att.net
Following up on our 'phone call yesterday. I have a used ignition switch, but it does not have the tumbler and key that you need.
Send me you address etc. and I'll get the lens in the mail.............unless there is something else you may need.
Thanks
John
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There are two versions of this lens. The factory original has a "chrome" ring around the perimeter of the lens. The later replacement version does not have the "Chrome". I have both versions.
John 502 773 0592 or j-lbrissette at att.net
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My solution to this was to make washers . Decide was diameter washer you need. Buy a short piece of round stock in that diameter. If you have access to a lathe, drill the center to the size bolt hole you need. Cut the round stock to the thickness you need. Don't have a lathe........cut the round stock to the thickness you need and drill the center on a drill press.
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can (would) anyone post a clear closeup pic of the fronts and backs of these spinners? would like to adapt them to a different wheel. dimensions would be a huge help also. thank you.
Why not contact Jon Myer and get the specs from him..............after all he had them produced, I would think he has the drawings.
Paging Neil Grant
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted
Neil called me yesterday. All is good
Thanks
John