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Posts posted by adamderosa

  1. I've been thinking about getting a set of 17" wheels for my Avanti. I just like the look of more wheel and less tire. For those of you who have gone this route, can you provide any details regarding what fit, what didn't, what tire sizes you used and also any negative observations such as harsh ride, abnormal tire wear, hard steering , etc.



  2. Several years ago George Dimitsas (Olympus Avanti Parts) was selling a front fender wheel opening piece for Avanti II's that would enlarge the opening to somewhere in between the Studebaker size and the Avanti II size. It was a fiberglass piece so the fender would have to be cut, modified, smoothed and painted but they were a nice option and they were flanged around the opening for strength. I don't know if these are still available but it might be worthwhile to give him a call.

  3. I checked with Mark at Flex-form about the spring rate, and he said that the rates between composite and steel springs are not directly comparable due to the additional friction steel springs have between the leaves and the difference in "compliance factor" of steel vs. composite. I'm not a spring engineer; I'm just passing along what I heard. I did do some more research on these springs and found that many owners of first gen Mustangs are using them. The 200 lb/in rate is being reported as firm but not too stiff.

  4. Jack,

    Here's the e-mail with the info I received from flex-a-form; it's the only information I have to go on so far. I guess I need to do some more research about spring rates.

    Hi Adam,

    We have used our “high arch” type of spring blank for approximately original ride height. Our “low arch” has about 1.75 in. lower free arch height for these springs.

    The length dimensions are 20.5 inches front bolt centerline to axle centerline (center pin dim.) and 51 in overall (front to rear bolt). These are measured along the main arch of the spring. I don’t expect yours are different, but it’s a good idea to check especially since yours isn’t a Studebaker. These aren’t hard to check from under the car with a narrow flexible tape measure.

    We have mostly made just over 200 lb/in spring rates going heavier for Avantis with high output engines.

    Bolt sizes would need to be checked too but we wouldn’t need that info to get started.



  5. I'm thinking of replacing my Avanti's sagging leaf springs with the monoleafs from flex-a-form. For those of you who have done this before, can you offer any insights into your experience? Mark from Flex-a-form says that they can make these in a "high-arch" to give approximately standard ride height or a "low arch" for a 1.75" drop, and that their standard rate is about 200lb/in., althoughI can specify a stiffer rate if desired. This is just a street driven car so I'm not lookiing for something overly stiff. Thanks for any information.

  6. We know that the Studebaker Bendix disc brake design was based on the Dunlop design already in use on other cars, such as the early series E-type Jaguar, and that the pads and calipers will interchange. But, does anyone know if the discs themselves will also interchange? I'm looking at some replacement dics from a Jaguar supplier, and they're pretty cheap. (It's just the disc; the hub and wheel studs would have to be pressed in from an old disc). Has anyone ever investigated this?

    Here's what I'm looking at: http://www.terrysjag...rs/C23484X.html

  7. I looked at the replacement seals for a BMW 2002 with a Golde sunroof - they were bit smaller than what's used on the Avanti. Also they were just a rubber spine covered with fabric, without the rigid metal strip like the Avanti seal. I contacted Nostalgic Motors (800-Avanti-x) and they have the proper seals available, so I ordered a set through them. Dan Booth gave me some tips on installation.

  8. I don't know of any replacement headliners available, but I suppose it wouldn't hurt to call our parts vendors and ask; maybe someone has a used one that is in good shape and hopefully the right color for you. The one in my car was warped from water damage also and I was able to repair it somewhat by removing it and replacing the water damaged cardboard backing with three or four pieces of poster board glued together for stiffness. When I re-installed it I used long strips of velcro on the backside of the headliner and the underside of the roof to secure it. This repair didn't make it perfect, but it is a lot better than it was. You might also contact a local auto upholstery shop about making a new headliner piece.

  9. Raymond,

    Congratulations on your Best in Class awards!

    Don't feel bad about the delay with the pictures; I've been trying to solve this problem for years - another few days, weeks or months isn't going to matter or bother me. So, what I'd like to see in some pictures are three things: How the front/side seal piece ends at the rear corners of the roof opening, how the rear seal piece ends at the rear corners of the roof panel, and how the seal is mounted height-wise in relation to the roof, i.e., flush with the roof opening or slightly below the roof opening. I know mine is not correct because i just had to guess when I installed it as there was no old seal left to use as a guide. If I recall correctly the seal comes in one big piece that you need to trim to fit. I'll try to send you some pictures tomorrow of what I'm looking for. ANY pictures you could provide would be helpful.

    I found a supplier for Mecury Cougar parts that has the seals; I might give them a shot on my next attempt. Here's a link to their site if you'd like to take a look: http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/67w-sunroofseal.html

    As always, thanks for your help!

    By the way, I see no one took the bait on my last post. Water that gets into the cowl vents also drains into the hog troughs. So it doesn't much matter if you have a sunroof or not - your original hog troughs were bound to rust out!

  10. I agree that having the sunroof gutter drain into the hog troughs is not a great idea. But, has anyone noticed where water from the air vents in the cowl drains too? Pour some water through the air vents in the cowl, at the base of the windshield, and see where it comes out.

  11. Hi Raymond,

    It was great to meet you at the meet in South Bend also! I'm glad your trip back was uneventful. I made it home without any trouble too.

    You are correct - the seal area I'm most interested in is the rear corners of the roof panel. The sunroof seal is in two sections: a large section that goes around the front edge and both sides of the roof opening, and a smaller section that goes on the rear of the sliding panel. I'd like to see what the proper way is for these two sections to be fitted so they meet or overlap correctly. Any pictures of this area which you could provide would be very helpful. I understand that your roof does not leak and that you have not had it open, so if you'd rather not open it and risk disturbing something, I completely understand. I should've taken some pictures of your car at the meet but I didn't think of it at the time.

    When I replaced the seals several years ago, I bought them from Nostalgic Motors. I'm not sure if they still have them available. The original seals on my car were completely worn away so I didn't have anything to use as a guide when I installed the new ones. These ASC (American Sunroof Corp) sunroofs were either manufactured or based on the Golde sunroof design from Germany. Similar style ASC and Golde sunroofs were installed in the late '60s - early '70's Ford Thunderbird, Mercury Cougar, BMW and VW amongst others. I have been looking at the seals from a BMW 2002 which may work.

    Thanks for any help you might be able to provide!

  12. In my never ending to quest to stop my sunroof from leaking, I've decided to try to replace the seals (again). Does anyone have an Avanti II with the early ASC sunroof - hopefully non-leaking- that can post some pictures of seals? In particular I'm interested in how the rear seal and sides mate together. The ASC sunroof was used on Avantis from 1972 to about 1978 I believe; it's just a solid metal panel, NOT glass.


  13. When these cars were built, I think this must have been the first piece they started with, and the rest of the car was built around it. :)

    You can get the evaporator out, but it's a bit of a fight. First, remove the front panel with the vents and controls. Then, remove the right side console panel that goes around the side of the evaporator in the passenger side footwell. You will have to remove or pull back the carpeting. The fiberglass panel may be screwed or riveted on, so you may have to drill out the rivet heads. At this point, you should have enough room to disconnect the hoses going to the evaporator. Now, look and feel around for the mounting brackets, I think there's one on the front and one on the back but I may be wrong about this. You should now be able to wiggle the assembly around and determine where it's secured. Once you have it loose, try to wiggle it out through the opening in the passenger side footwell. You may discover that it just won't come out without making a small cut in the console area ~ don't worry about it as it will not be visible when everything is back together. This is a difficult job but it can be done. You may find it easier to work if the passenger seat is removed. Good luck!

  14. Sat65-

    Sorry I didn't see your message sooner; I just returned form the meet in South Bend. The car show at the railroad museum in Union, IL is very nice and is well attended by Avanti and Studebaker owners, although this year there might be a few less of us ( myself included) due to it's occurrence right after the National Meet. The museum grounds are very nice and there are many interesting things to view, plus there are operating trains giving rides. It's definitely worth going to.

    I am also the secretary in the Chicago Chapter, and I apologize that no one has sent you any membership information. Please contact me at adamderosa@yahoo.com with you mailing address and I will send you some information.

  15. There's a special tool to adjust those "tamper proof" idle mixture screws. It looks like a screwdriver with a special tip on it to fit those screws. Your local NAPA or other good auto parts store sould have it.

  16. Paul-

    It was my understanding that the Turner Brake rear disc kit only fits Dana 44 rear-ends with tapered axles, which were used on some Studebaker Avantis. Avanti II's mostly used Dana 44's with flanged axles. (Tapered axles have the wheel studs attached to the brake drum, and the drum is held to the axle by a large nut, flanged axles have the wheels studs mounted to an axle flange, and the brake drum slips over) You might want to contact Jim Turner and verify this with him. I've attached a picture of one of my Dana 44 flanged axles from when I had it removed, and it also has the 6 flange bolts in a u-shape like yours.


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