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Posts posted by adamderosa

  1. Hi Raymond-

    Yes if you could scan and e-mail me your radio manual that would be great! My e-mail address is: adamderosa@yahoo.com. If you're unable to scan it, you can mail a copy to me at 36399 N. Streamwood Drive, Gurnee IL 60031. I will glady pay for the postage, just let me know what it costs.

    Thanks a lot!

    Adam DeRosa

  2. Hey that's great that you finally got it back! I hope to see it at the next Chicagoland Avanti meeting. You might just need a different return spring on the throttle linkage if it's too stiff, or perhaps your existing spring could be moved to a different location where there's less tension on it. You also probably need a different speedometer gear in your transmission if the speed is off. There are some on-line calculators that determine what gears you need after you input your tire size and axle ratio. Here's one from Bowtie Overdrives you can try:


  3. I have a Blaupunkt Frankfurt US radio, part number 7632629200 that I've been told was removed from a 1974 Avanti. I'm trying to get it back in working order but I don't have any paperwork for it. Does anyone have the owner's guide or service guide? If so, would it be possible to have a copy e-mailed to me? I've searched on-line for this haven't had any luck.


    Adam DeRosa

  4. The Ross steering box on my '72 Avanti leaks grease and makes a mess, so I want to pull it out and either re-seal and rebuild it my self or send it out. Does anyone have any tips for removing the steering box, re-sealing it and rebuilding it? What's a good source for parts for these? Has anyone sent their box out for repair? If so, where to?


    Adam DeRosa


  5. Has the pinging problem been happening since this carb was installed? If so, I wonder if it could be jetted a little too lean. This would explain why the engine runs better when it's first started, and the choke is on, enrichening the mixture. When the engine warms up and the choke comes off, the mixture leans out. The jets and metering rods are pretty easy to change on the Eldebrock cabrs if you have the tuning kit.

  6. Check to see if your intake heat valve is stuck. It's located in the passenger side exhaust manifold where the down pipe attaches to the manifold. The valve has a thermostatic spring attached to it and you should be able to move it freely. If it's stuck open it can cause the intake temperature to be too high, which can cause pinging.

  7. Hi,

    1) I'm not sure about the thermocouple, it does not sound like a factory item. Does the car have an electric cooling fan installed? If so it could be the temp sensor for it.

    2.) The toggle switch on the left side of the console is for the rear window de-fogger fan. One position is "low" speed, one position is "high" speed and the middle is "off". The switch on the right may be for aux fog or driving lights.

  8. Hmmm I don't think you should have a white wire connecting the temp gauge to the Ammeter. The wiring diagram shows for the ammeter just a Red wire on the - terminal and a Black wire on the +. For the temp gauge there shoulbe be three wires, a white one, an orange one, and a grey one with a black stripe.

  9. Hello,

    Can anyone advise what type of front disc pads go onto my 1981 Avanti 11. the pads and rotors are good however, the pads are getting worn and I want to change them before they go out. The disc calipers are Dunlop type.

    Also, does anyone know what rear brakes shoes come from, I do not have much luck at the auto parts store looking under Avanti.




    The rear brake shoes are a #228 for a 11x2" drum, and they are used in many applications. If they ask you for a car at the auto parts store tell them it's for a '69 Chevy Caprice. The front pads were also common to other cars with the early style Dunlop disc brakes, such as '62 Jaguar XKE. The pads and shoes are available from all of the Avanti parts vendors if your local store doesn't have them.

  10. If you're only removing the oil pan to replace the gasket, you might be able to do it without completely removing the pan. If the oil pan is dropped down all the way around, you might be able to snake the new gasket into place. Try attaching a thin wire or a piece of string to one end of the gasket and then try to pull it into position. It's hard to do because you have to get the gasket around and underneath the oil pick-up screen. I've never done this on an Avanti but I have done it on other vehicles where I couldn't get the oil pan out.

  11. Yes, flanged axle Dana 44's still need to have the outer bearings packed with grease by hand.

    Also, if you're unsure as to which kind of axle you have, an easy way to identify it is too look in a catalog like Summit Racing or Jeg's. Usually they will have a chart showing the shapes of different differential housings, and you can identify it that way.

  12. Jerry-

    Are you sure it's the steering box that's causing the problem?

    Besides a worn steering box and kingpins, there are a few other places in the steering system that will cause excessive looseness. Have you checked for excessive play in the bellcrank? Also, check the adjustment of the power steering comtrol valve - if the nut on the spool valve is too loose it can cause the steering to be loose and wander. Another overlooked part is the flexible coupler or "rag joint" between the steering column and the steering box. These can rot after being exposed to exhaust heat, spilled oil and brake fluid etc over the years. Worn A-arm bushings can cause the steering wander also. Has the wheel alignment been checked?


  13. Try removing the front radio speaker (remove the four screws on the speaker grill and pry out the grill) - this gives you a nice access hole right above the radio. If you have a newer, smaller radio installed it can be removed through this opening. If not, you may be to at least see the wiring you're looking for and do your hook-ups from the top.

  14. Ray-

    It sounds like the TV cable may be out of adjustment or broken. (the TV cable goes from the carb to the trans) To adjust it, press in the adjustment button on the cable housing sleeve near the carb, and press the inner sleeve of the cable housing back towards the firewall. Now, release the adjustment button and move the throttle to to wide-open. You should hear the cable adjuster click as it sets. Then take a test drive and see if this helped. If this is un-clear, take a look in a GM shop manual, once you see it it's easy to do.

    In '82 I believe the torque converter lock-up was controlled by the computer.

    Hope this helps,


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