Gunslinger
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Posts posted by Gunslinger
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You can experiment a bit and see what you find works best for you but I found that a 4 lb. difference front/back works best.
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When I had my '70 I had a speed shop fabricate a 2.5" exhaust with Magnaflow mufflers. You have to be careful as pipes that size have to be slightly flattened or squeezed when routed through the clearance openings in the X-frame so they don't strike it and rattle.
When it comes to getting more sound...that's more a function of the muffler design than pipe diameter. I considered Flowmaster mufflers but previous experience with them having a loud raspy sound led to me Magnaflow as they have a more subdued burble that open up with the rpm's.
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The headers used by Pontiac probably weren't expected to have a long lifespan anyway.
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I believe it was Studebaker in ads for the Avanti.
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In the early '60s when Pontiac was making a big effort on the drag racing scene, they had what was referred to as "swiss-cheese" frames on their factory drag cars where the frames had many holes drilled to lighten the weight. They also used aluminum factory headers. At end of every run down the strip there would be molten aluminum that had dripped onto the pavement. It was probably not too much different with aluminum headers on an Avanti depending on how it was used.
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Ray Cash sold the car decades ago. I believe it went through several owners over the years but don’t know for sure.
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Don’t know the answer but the word “calibrated” has at best a passing relationship with the Avanti.
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The #8 car had sat in a shop a few miles from me for some years waiting to be rebuilt. Without going into it there was a “disagreement” between the shop owner doing the work on it and the owner. Eventually the owner wanted to sell it. I put Gary Woods and the owner together and the sale was made. It had a genuine R3 engine that had been rebuilt but it was not the R3 it had at Bonneville. The car unfortunately had a less than pampered life…the original engine was replaced by an R2…a fire which damaged the car…lots of less than desirable things occurred. It’s now been rebuilt and probably as close to its Bonneville appearance as can be.
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Wasn’t the bracket changed that secured it?
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$7k
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The problem with V-belts is many manufacturers have consolidated parts numbers to reduce the number of belts to inventory. If a belt is the right length to fit several applications it will replace all the exact belts even if it’s depth is incorrect for some applications. I found that out the hard way with a ‘69 Corvette I owned…the belt the applications books said was correct was too short. Another application book showed one that would fit length-wise but fit too deep in the pulley groove and turned upside down when driving. I ended up paying extra for a reproduction belt from a Corvette parts specialist which fit properly with no more problems.
I suggest contacting Myer’s Studebaker, Nostalgic Motors or Studebaker International for belts that fit properly.
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Rain channels were added.
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Arguable...he dropped the "II" from the nameplate immediately. The other "first" thing he did was change the tires.
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The LT1 engine of that era was infamous for Optispark distributor issues…loss of power and hesitation among them.
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Didn’t an AOAI member…a minister in CA…buy a Trans Am blasted Avanti convertible from Alice Cooper some years ago?
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Now…Carroll Shelby used SN-60 superchargers on some of his GT-350 Mustangs. They even had Paxton stickers saying they were a division of Studebaker Corporation. What color were those painted? I’ve seen then on Shelby cars left natural metal and Ford blue as well as orange. There may not be a standard color…whatever paint was available when made. Those Ford blue may have been painted by Shelby American.
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I don't believe issues all get shipped at the same time...they go out in batches. Once the Postal Service has them it's a real crap shoot and luck of the draw. Sometimes I think the postal employees take a handful of mail...whether letters or magazines...toss them down the stairs and work their way up processing and send out the mail.
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I hope you have a quality buffer made for this…a random orbital is most cost effective. Use a good polish then follow up with a good sealant or wax. The improvement can be remarkable.
Go to a website like Griot’s Garage or Autogeek…they have excellent tutorials and products to help.
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Check with Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors. An upholstery shop can restore the door straps as long as the parts are intact.
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Early Avanti’s had insulation covering the underside of the front half of the hood due to a hood cross-brace. Partway through the production run the brace was dispensed with and insulation covering nearly the entire under hood area was used.
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Maybe you could extend those drains and run them through the torque boxes to the outside and seal around where the tube exits the box.
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That may be the day the Avanti II was officially introduced.
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Avanti Motors began using the push-type wiper/washer switch at RQB1563 during the 1970 model year. Prior to that it looks like the Studebaker foot pump washer was still used.
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A ‘69 would use the red Studebaker vinyl bag as the washer reservoir mounted on a bracket on the passenger side inner fender apron. The washer pump would be mounted on the top of the bag.
The washer switch could be located in one of two places…depending on when the car was actually built. It could be a foot operated switch by the left foot…the Studebaker type…or it could be combined with the washer switch which would be pushed in to activate it. I don’t know when Avanti Motors made the change from one to the other.
easy way to change instrument lights in 1964 R1?
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted · Edited by Gunslinger
Small hands.
Add to that...if you're changing any of the bulbs...change them all at the same time and get LED bulbs. Their brighter with more consistent light...use less power...and put out less heat. You can get them in red, white or other colors.