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Posts posted by lschuc

  1. Rob,  just do what 64StudeAvanti said, run the puller tight by hand and then use the hammer to pound on the ears to tighten further. The, hit the end of the puller, followed by more hits on the handle, and it will eventually pop off.  Sometimes it takes multiple blows with the hammer.  DO NOT use an air impact gun.

    When the hub/drum assembly comes off the axle shaft, the key will either come out in the groove of the hub, or will stay in the groove of the axle shaft.  Just make sure you note it's position and install it the same way, like the manual says.

    When you reinstall the hub and drum assembly, slide it on the axle shaft with the key in the groove, then put the nut on and tighten the nut to, I believe 170 lb.ft., then align the hole for the cotter pin, if needed just a bit tighter.  Torque of the axle nut seats the hub on the axle. No need to  press it on. That is what the axle nut does as you tighten it to 170 lb.ft.


  2. There is an article on dash pad replacement earlier this year in Avanti Magazine Issue 189 Spring/Summer 2020.  These dashes are made from the original molds and the same procedures and material

    The cost is around $2,000, about the same as Just Dashes in Southern California, but are made from original molds.

    You will reuse your instruments and instrument overlay.  The article is several pages long and very detailed for every step. 

  3. 1 minute ago, heyrob said:

    I realize now I have a 3 jaw attachment for my 5 lb slide hammer, but I'm guessing that would have been an uphill / losing battle compared to the puller?

    I think I've heard about others using a slide hammer, but the 5lb probably would not work well.  Those hubs are on the axle very tight. 

  4. 1 minute ago, heyrob said:

    I'll set my ego aside for a minute and admit I just googled "swaged" 🤣

    Sounds like I need to adjust my timelines a bit to get the brakes out, then put the hub back in. These swaged studs are visible from the front/exterior of the drum, or from the back/interior?

    (this is a good time to repeat my appreciation for your input!)



    Swaged is just the way the drum is attached to the hub so they stay together.   The hub puller takes the hub and drum off together

  5. 1 hour ago, heyrob said:

    I'm so glad you posted this, I think you just saved me from a world of hurt!

    I do have a workshop manual, but honestly hadn't more than glanced at the brakes section, just figuring "a drum's a drum".  I had been planning to use an external style 2-jaw puller I had (OTC 6980), which grabs the brake drum rotor on the circumference / edge... Sounds like that would have made for a bad day (a good reminder for me to "think twice" - remembering these cars are unique).

    OTC 6980.jpg



    Yes, this would have at least broke the drum, and maybe you too!  🤯  The hub pullers I mention above are actually pulling on the hub and NOT the drum.  The brake drum is swaged onto the studs that are pressed into the hub. In order to separate the hub and drum assemble, the swaged on each stud has to be cut, then the drum can come off the studs.

  6. 47 minutes ago, heyrob said:

    I think you hit my nail on it's head. I'm realizing now I totally misconceptualized the system, thinking of it like a "typical" modern day setup where you can manipulate the drum/rotor separately from the hub. I agree the pictures really helped me get what's going on...

    Heyrob,  Not only Studebaker used tapered axle shafts, other cars used this too,  American Motors, for one. In fact, some (if not all) Jeeps used tapered axle shafts at least through the 1970s, maybe longer.

  7. 58 minutes ago, studegary said:

    I know that Lew knows his stuff, but it is confusing to refer to the puller as a brake drum puller.  The pictures did a lot to clear this up. It is a hub puller that you need.  

    Me and others have always referred to this tool as a brake drum puller 😇, because that is what we used it for, but it technically is a hub puller. 

  8. Before  you try to remove the rear brake drums, the drums and hubs fit tightly on a tapered axle shaft, and to remove the hub and drum, you HAVE to use a brake drum puller that attaches with three jaws to three lug bolts.    First remove the cotter key and the big axle nut, then put the axle nut on backwards to just protect the last few threads on the axle shaft.  

    after attaching the brake drum puller onto three wheel studs and tightening lug nuts onto those studs, tighten the drum puller onto the center of the axle shaft with the axle nut on backwards, and then you can use a big hammer to strike the cross at the end of the threaded puller.   

    You will NOT remove the hub and drum assembly without one of these tools.  Without the tool, you will probably destroy the drum, hub and probably the end of the axle shaft too.    

    Hopefully you have an Avanti workshop manual that will show the proper way to both remove drums/hubs, and especially how to install them back onto the axle shaft.  There is a tapered keyway just past the threads on the end of the axle shaft, and if installed wrong, can also damage the hub or axle shaft.

    Here is one type of drum puller I like, made by Snap On, I've found these on eBay often, usually for around $100.   Summit Racing catalog has new OTC hub pullers  that should work too: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-7394?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjw4KyJBhAbEiwAaAQbE3ajVDdtsajKrQcgFmmPet6xT30aHiqCLWHR5SMuaRgk04wboeivXhoCFG8QAvD_BwE

    As for your front wheels not turning, the disk brake pads/calipers are probably stuck or rusted to the rotor.  Since the wheels are off, you probably should at least remove the pads from both front wheels, and if the are too hard to remove, just take the whole caliper off.


    Snap-on: unnamed.jpg

    OTC from Summit: otc-7394_w.jpg


  9. The shift linkage is probably rusty and/or the lever could be rusty too.   Easiest way to check that the transmission is out of park is to get under the car,  and disconnect the rod coming from the shift linkage to the lever on the driver's side of the transmission circled in red in the photo, and then move the lever two clicks back, which should be neutral.   Actually even moving the lever one click back (or more) releases the parking pawl in the transmission and should let the car roll forward or backwards. 

    The shift rod is attached to the lever with a cotter key.

    From the looks of the car's wheels, it looks like you will need a sturdy tow strap to pull the car out of its covered shed, then winch it onto a trailer.

    Where in Texas is it located now? 


  10. On 7/29/2021 at 10:09 AM, tanda62 said:

    I have been trying to contact Turner Brakes and have had no luck.  Are they still in business?  Tried email and calling.  

    Wondering if these wheels, 16 by 7 would fit either the stock brake setup on a 63 Avanti or the Turner brake setup (front and rear disc).  If not, anyone know of a similar looking wheel that would fit?

    Thanks, Tom




    His contact information is on page 103 of the current issue of Avanti Magazine; email: diskbrake1@comcast.net.   He is in the Myrtle Beach, South Carolina are now, but his phone is the same as in the magazines.



  11. auto_avanti_sketch1-432x200.jpg

    From a long time member of the AOAI, a remembrance of the iconic Avanti and its influence on a young child and his dad on this Memorial Day weekend.


    The author's dad was one of the early members of the fledgling Avanti Owners Association in the mid-1960s, begun by the late John Hora and Warren Lolich. Raffi’s dad went on to become an officer of the club. John Hora died this past February 9 and Raffi wrote a glowing remembrance that accompanied Mr. Hora’s obituary in the just released issue of Avanti Magazine. 

    Viva Avanti !





  12. A very good source for collector car valuation is Hagerty.com.   https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1981-Avanti-Avanti_II

    Looking up a 1981 Avanti II on the site, we see:

    Current Values

    • #1 Concours$25,200
      Condition #1 vehicles are the best in the world. The visual image is of the best vehicle, in the right colors, driving onto the lawn at the finest concours. Perfectly clean, the vehicle has been groomed down to the tire treads. Painted and chromed surfaces are mirror-like. Dust and dirt are banned, and materials used are correct and superbly fitted. The one word description for #1 vehicles is "concours."
    • #2 Excellent$16,700
      #2 vehicles could win a local or regional show. They can be former #1 vehicles that have been driven or have aged. Seasoned observers will have to look closely for flaws, but will be able to find some not seen by the general public. The paint, chrome, glass and finishes will all appear as excellent. No excessive smoke will be seen on startup, no unusual noises will emanate from the engine. The vehicle will drive as a new vehicle of its era would. The one word description for #2 vehicles is "excellent."
    • #3 Good$10,800
      #3 vehicles could possess some, but not all of the issues of a #4 vehicle, but they will be balanced by other factors such as a fresh paint job or a new, correct interior where applicable. #3 vehicles drive and run well, but might have some incorrect parts. These vehicles are not used for daily transportation but are ready for a long tour without excuses, and the casual passerby will not find any visual flaws. "Good" is the one word description of a #3 vehicle.
    • #4 Fair$6,800
      #4 vehicles are daily drivers, with flaws visible to the naked eye. The chrome might have pitting or scratches, the windshield might be chipped. Paintwork is imperfect, and perhaps the body has a minor dent. Split seams or a cracked dash, where applicable, might be present. No major parts are missing, but the wheels could differ from the originals, or other non- stock additions might be present. A #4 vehicle can also be a deteriorated restoration. "Fair" is the one word that describes a #4 vehicle.


  13. On 12/20/2020 at 10:02 AM, mfg said:

    I see,....will do.

    Would you post the pictures here on the forum and send details to me for the spring/summer Avanti Magazine?   The winter/spring issue goes in the mail the week, so too late for that issue.

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