ernier
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Posts posted by ernier
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There needs to be power to the coil when the engine is cranking. There are two different wires for this. Cars originally equipped with points would have a wire to the coil that delivered a full 12 volts while cranking and then another that ran through the ballast resistor that delivered around 9 volts while running.
Ernie R
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Are you sure the speedometer and odometer are accurate. My son tried to convince me that his modified Lincon Mark VII was getting better mileage with the 3.73 gear he installed over the original higher gear ratio. His argument disintegrated when I suggested he check his odometer against a mile marker. Different height tires or a malfunctioning speedo can make your mileage seem much different than it actually is.
As far as the carb...make sure the choke is opening all the way, if the car has a heat riser make sure it's opening, if the carb was replaced it may not be properly jetted for your engine. Off the shelf rebuilts are not necessarily set up properly for the application even though they bolt on.
Your mileage does sound low especially if it's combined highway/city.
Any fuel smells after you shut it off? Fuel evaporates so quickly that only the biggest leaks show up on the floor.
Do you have the orginal air cleaner on the car and does it have a thermactor valve on the snorkel? If that valve doesn't open and you still have a hose going to the exhaust manifold you sre restricting air flow. If you have an aftermarket air cleaner is it a small diametr style. They are more restrictive than the 14" style.
Timing is critical to mileage. Vacuum advance needs to be working. Total advance at cruise RPM with the vacuum advance hooked up should be 45-50 degrees but can vary from engine to engine. Retarded timing hurts fuel mileage. Centrifugal advance needs to be working properly. Don't be afraid to experiment with initial timing as more advance may work better over the factory recommended setting.
Good Luck.
ErnieR
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Before I ramble on possibilities did you solve the problem?
ErnieR
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I wouldn't think it was vacuum. Typically vacuum hiss would disappear as the accelerator is pushed since vacuum drops and increase when you come off the gas as vacuum is highest then the opposite of what you're experiencing.
I'm inclined to think the there is an exhaust pipe hitting and maybe causing a momentary leak when it does.
I'm having trouble with imagining a "horn" noise. Also, check any seals and body gaskets. If the shifter boot or seal around the brake booster and gas pedeal linkage is torn or loose you will hear lots of normal noises that sound abnormal because they don't normally get into the passenger compartment.
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I would get some WD-40 and spray like crazy in the gap for the window while turning the key. If a tumbler needs lubricating it's usually difficult to get the key in but difficulty turning is usually linkage.
ErnieR
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You need to remove all the console plates, shifter etc to unscrew the clips that hold the trim on. You will ruin the trim if you try it any other way.
ErnieR
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FWIW, I haven't put Turner rear discs on my Avanti, because the absolutely last thing an Avanti needs is more rear brake. The factory purposely limited the rear braking by making the rear drums non-self-energizing. Still, on hard downhill stops, the right rear will lock easily and sometimes both rears.
This is because on a hard stop, 80% of the weight transfers onto the front wheels and the rears are barely touching the pavement. You'll have to work with the F/R balance to keep the rears from locking. You can get the balance right, but bed in the pads and then do a lot of testing on deserted roads before making a panic stop in the rain.
jack vines
I was afraid of that when I did mine but I can confidentley say it was not and issue. I tested them at the drag strip coming down from 90+ mph, multiple in town psuedo panic stops etc. No lock up issues at all.
When I did mine I used a disc/disc specific master cylinder; 1,000 lbs of pressure at each brake and no proportioning valve.
I do believe you will need to go to a Ford or Chrysler wheel for clearance. You should anyway. The original wheels are too narrow for radials to do their job properly and if you are running bias ply tires you will be negating any benfit of the 4 wheel disc conversion.
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I've used 3M Super HD Trim Adhesive many times including an Avanti.
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Lots of spots it can stick. Start at the accelerator pedal rod. If it's not installed properly it will rub against the floor pan and stick. It has a specific bend so it stays centered as it travels. The spring to the valve cover is important. if your car is an automatic there;s trans linkage that can stick also.
Ernie R
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Liberal amounts of WD-40 sprayed though the window opening and directed at the latch may be enough to free up your door locks.
The armrest may not be attached anywhere but the door panel because it's not used to pull the door shut.
Sorry for the blank response before.
ErnieR
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Liberal amounts of WD-40 sprayed though the window opening and directed at the latch may be enough to free up your door locks.
The armrest may not be attached anywhere but the door panel because it's not used to pull the door shut.
Sorry for the blank response before.
ErnieR
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The door lock tumblers in my 1983 Avanti are sticking so bad that I am afraid to lock the doors. I am thinking about replacing them and was wondering if anyone knows which manfacturer Avanti sourced the door lock tumblers from in May 1983 when my car was built?
Also, I was looking at the interior door pannels to see how they come off and it is not obvious how the arm rest is removed. The rest of the hardware on the door pannel looks straight forward but there are not any screws visible on the arm rest that should be removed. As solid as the arm rest is I cannot imagine it is just attached to the door pannel. Is anyone familar with how the door pannel arm rest is removed in the the 1983 model Avanti?
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Yes you can. I've changed converters without pulling the trans out from underneath the car. I used a transmission jack and I think it would be pretty difficult, not impossible, but difficult and maybe dangerous with a regular floor jack.
I'm assuming you're sure it's a non-lock up converter.
Make sure there's an 'O' ring on the end of the transmission input shaft otherwise your converter won't lock-up.
If the converter you buy is painted scrape the paint off the nose that seats inside the crankshaft. B&M lays some thick paint on their converters and they won't easily slip in and consequently "flex" the flexplate when you tighten things up.
Remove the distributor. It makes it easier to get to the top bolts and as the engine drops it won't crush the firewall or bust the distributor body.
If the trans was rebuilt to work with a non locking converter make sure there's nothing that needs to be done internally to use the lock up.
What stall did you install?
Final thought is that if the trans was modified to work well with a non locking converter maybe the $3-400 you're going to spend on a converter might be better spent on a set of steeper rear end gears. Much better perfromance and if your stall is in the 2500 range you won't slip too much at highway speeds if you're cruising close to your stall rpm.
Of course, if it's fuel mileage your after lock-up is the way to go.
ErnieR
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I had issues with both driver and passenger windows after replacing motor an gears didn't matter that they were fairly new both had to be repaired and in both cases the electric motor was fine.
The clunking is definitely a gear or regulator issue. My "new" gear lost 4 teeth within a month of replacement because the regulator was binding on those screws. The driver's side would work intermittantly. No motor noise or windo motion but I could tell by the voltmeter juice was geting to the motor and the motor was trying to move. Took it apart and everything worked on the bench with motor attached to the regulator. Teeth were fine, gear internals were fine. Put it back together and it would go up and not come down.
Finally I put the two motors side by side and saw that the center pin that the gear slides onto was at a slight angle. I had pictures but deleted them. You can't tell when the gear is seated all the way down but by pulling it out enough to enhance the view you could see that the gear was not flush with the housing. Once bolted up it would bind.
I also noticed that some of the rebuilt motors were oval rather than flat on the sides. This would also cause a bind and could cause a gear to break prematurely. Good luck, it took me a couple of months to sort the windows out completely.
If you run into swtch problems I've got a neat fix for that.
Ernie
Thanks for the info and I know what you mean about those 'pivot' bolts. The problem unit is not that old and a re-built from one of our vendors (complete with K-Car motor attached). I'm seriously thinking of trying to switch over to "manual" operation, but I remember Jon Myers (in a mag article) saying it wasn't a good idea mechanically - I'm in the process of finding that article now.
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I would go with the 200 because you won't have to cut the tunnel and you can run the stock exhaust pipes. Considering the value of a 4speed R2 as opposed to an automatic I would make sure that nothing is done that can't be reversed like cutting the tunnel for a 700.
You will need to get very creative with the TV cable attachment to the carb. Edelbock makes an adapter to work with their carbs but the Stude AFB has no provision for proper location of that adapter. There may be someone on the Stude Forum that has made an adapter and can send you a template. I also recommend either a TCI trans or a trans built with their constant pressure valve body. It will allow you some room for error on that TV linkage and the cable adjustment.
You will need to find automatic shifter and linkage. There's nowhere to mount aftermarket shifters so you need the Stude or ideally an Avanti II shifter and plate.
If you decide to move ahead contact me and I can tell you every pitfall and everything you will need.
Ernie
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Sounds like the gear or the rollers inside the gear are bad. I had a new one get chewed up very quickly because the 3 bolts on the triangular pivot were long enough to catch the arms and cause them to bind consequently causing the gear to loose a couple of teeth. I used the shortest bolts I could find that still grabbed all the threads in the captured nut. There's very little clearance.
The gears are available new from Cardone I use my 76 Chrysler New Yorker as an application, same gear.
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Has anyone needed to replace the switches above the windshield?
If so, I'd love to know where to get them. Thanks! Tom
If they are nit borken externally they come apart easily and often just need cleaning and lubing.
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I am looking for some Dayton wire spoke bolt-on wheels for my late 1978. Anyone have any to spare (pun intended)?
I have 5, lugs and caps. Very nice. I paid $450 for the set and I would sell them for the same amount,
Where are you located? I'm in North Carolina.
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There will be considerable drag when trying to turn the supercharger pulley, it won't be like spinning the alternator. At idle you can remove the carb bonnet and feel air but it's difficult to see the amount of boost without driving the car. Most will produce 3-5 at the gage at high RPM's and will whine a little even at idle. It's the 'marbles in the can' noises you don't want to hear and if you can't generate at least 3 lbs of boost it probably needs to be rebuilt. Leaks at the bonnet to carb gasket, and the wrong type, or bad PCV valve can reduce boost at the gage. It's just an air pump and if the air is leaking before it gets to the intake manifold boost will be weak.
We have completed an inspection and here are questions: What is the source for the 'long' battery; how do we know when/if the supercharger is working, replacement RPM will be needed, and proper radial tires? Appreciate any and all advice. If too complicated let's use private email. Dave Pyle dap8@comcast.net
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A few extra cranks before starting if the car sits for awhile is not unusual. With my toys I spin them a few seconds before T touch the gas pedal and set the choke. It fills the carb bowl and builds up some oil pressure before the engine kights.
There are a couple of things to check on The QJet. If the choke doesn't open all the way there's a tab on the linkage that will keep the scondary air valve from opening. It's a very fine adjustment You can visually check it or while the car is running and fully warmed just push on the air valve. If you can open it you're OK. The air valve is held closed by vacuum so there shjould be some pressure applied before it will open. If it opened too easily you might have a leak and the valve could be opening too quickly causing the bog.
The weak visual spark from your coil could cause the hard start but it's not a good test of the coil while the car's running. If you have a points type distributor the start circuit is a full 12 volts in the coil but when it's running it's reduced to around 9.5 to keep the points from burning up. I've seen more condensors cause hard starting than coils. In the 70's when i had a couple of gas stations I could cure a hrd morning start by removing the condensor and wiping oil from the bracket and breaker plate. I converted my '64 to Pertronix and it started easier and idled a lot smoother than with points.
Back to the Q-Jet...Check to see if the carb is opening fully at full throttle. I had a '69 427 Corvette that went from ho-hum to holy Crap! with a throttle cable adjustment to get that big secondary to do its job. They seem to loosen up easily also so re-check the hold down bolts and the top screws themselves.
Lastly, Before you buy an alternate carb you will have to use a fairly thick adapter to mate a square bore carb to a spread bore manifold. You may not have enough hood clearance.
ErnieR
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On my '64 the hole in the hose fitting on back of the gage was never punched out! Opened it up and the gage worked perfectly.
ErnieR
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You can buy universal rear view mirrros at JC Whitney or probably through Advance or one of the other stores. Inexpensive and look fine.
ErnieR
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Took my 89 to get AC charged, shop wanted to know AC capacity which is normally posted on a sticker but it is not on this car. Does anyone know AC capacity? Ken, Deltaville, Va
Pressures are more important than capacity. They should be able to charge properly based on operating pressures and outlet temperature.
ErnieR
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How did you get the filter out of the tube that protrudes from the firewall? I can't get mine out.
There are tools specifically designed for that but a narrow pick with a hooked end or an awl with a pointed, threaded end to screw into the orifice tube can be used.
ErnieR
Starting problems on the 63
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted · Edited by ernier
If you still have the push on connector at the solenoid you may need to replace them for a better connection. Testing at the resistor doesn't help starting. You need to test while cranking. Yes it could be a bad coil but in all my 40 pluse years of playing with cars I never ran across one that wouldn't start the car.
Click on the diagram.