Rick Allen
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Posts posted by Rick Allen
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1 hour ago, Avanti1963! said:
Chevy orange is a near perfect match. Supercharger and fan are same color.
Thanks, there should be plenty of that around,,,
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Anyone know who has the correct color orange paint for the R2 supercharger and cooling fan (if their the same) or something very close in an over-the-counter paint like Krylon/Dupli-color etc.?
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18 hours ago, tanda62 said:
I got this pump from Holley https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/efi_fuel_pumps/efi_electric_in-line_pumps/parts/12-920
It does 80gph and is designed for the Sniper EFI.
Hopefully it will do the job for you, it's certainly not a cheap one,,,thanks
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4 hours ago, tanda62 said:
Good eye. Still working out my wiring. Since I am using a Holley Sniper EFI the fuel pump will be wired into the harness that came with it and the relay Holley included. Right now I am trying to work out how many other relays I will be wiring into the car. So far the list may or may not include: Ignition, Headlights, Wipers, Heater, A/C, Electric Steering and Electric Fans. Building a custom wiring harness is fun...umm not really just a necessary step.
Yes, the more precautions the better; what fuel pump did you choose for the sniper, I know EFI requires a lot more PSI than the 6-7 psi a carb does?,,,
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It looks good, its mounted lower than the tank as it should be; I don't see any wires so I guess your still working on that, hope you plan to install a relay and pump shut-off switch in the circuit to kill the power to the pump in case of catastrophic engine failure like loss of oil pressure, etc.,,,
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2 hours ago, sailingadventure said:
Please click on the link(PDF) at the top of the drawings.
Great, thanks a lot for sharing,,,
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51 minutes ago, sailingadventure said:
I painted mine red because I thought it looked better. I know it should have been painted black, but I painted mine red anyway. The car was originally Gray and had been painted a gold color before I bought it. I decided to paint it a GM color, Marina Blue. I also added A/C and made electric power steering for it.I know these changes aren`t the way it came from the factory, but I think I have a better looking and driving car now.
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Even though not original your engine compartment does look very nice, I'm curious about the electric power steering wondering if you can get more details about how you made it, what you had to buy etc,,,
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10 hours ago, Gunslinger said:
It’s a moot point as Type A hasn’t been available for many years as it’s made from whale oil.
Not looking to find or use type A, I'm sure there is a modern equivalent, my question is since the Studebaker and Ford cast iron transmissions were almost identical from the mid-50s forward, is type F an acceptable replacement as I have cases of F on the shelf for my cruise-o-matic,,,
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Book says Type A fluid is correct for my '64 R2 automatic transmission; my '62 Ford uses type F and I remember reading somewhere A can be substituted for F in the Ford so is the reverse true for the R2 transmission?,,,
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17 hours ago, Dwight FitzSimons said:
Ni-Noc is 3M's trademark for "a self-adhesive film that can be applied to a variety of flat or curved surfaces." It is what Studebaker used on '64 Avantis for their wood-grained dash & console. Something was wrong with the material at that time, either it didn't stick, or came apart, or something. Di-Noc is still available today and is a good solution for replacing wood-grain finishes on dashes, door panels, etc.
I believe that some of the 813 BKV black interiors in '63 Avantis had the Di-Noc wood-grain until it was found to be unsatisfactory--right or wrong, somebody?
The Fawn-color dash & console on '63 Avantis was painted on.
--Dwight
A lot of crazy things going on back then and yet it all got documented; thanks for the info,,,
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22 minutes ago, Dwight FitzSimons said:
IIRC this late-1963 option for Avantis was called 813BKV (BKV = black vinyl). The list above states that 55 Avantis were so equipped. I guess that black was popular at the time. I would wish that Studebaker had chosen Elk for the solid-color option.
"1833 R2 'variants'" is just a poor way of stating that this car is one of 1833 1963-64 Avantis equipped with an R2 engine. I would have used different words, either "equipped with" or "R2 option."
That's a problem with BaT; they write the description, even though they're not experts on your particular make or model of car.
--Dwight
I see the reason given for the change is "Di-Noc material not satisfactory", I don't know what Di-Noc is or means, and what they meant by not satisfactory; did Studebaker go back to the previous color applique or is that when they went to wood-grain for the coming '64 models?
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I found it interesting, the auction shows a picture of a page from the 2015 Avanti Magazine showing Avanti which received "black interior components".
I assume it means things other than seats, door panels, etc., but things like dash, radio, steering wheel & column, and console trim were black; the car is listed as 1 of 1833 R2 "variants"; it that considered to be the same as "running changes"?
Also, later I found, but not on the auction site, the document (pictured below) which I guess supports the "black interior components" changes!
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On 8/13/2023 at 1:31 PM, lschuc said:
The picture you show from the shop manual looks to be a smaller diameter fuel pump for a standard V8 engine, not the R-Series engines. Most likely the writers of the Studebaker shop manual did not update this or other photos or diagrams when the Avanti came out. The picture posted on the DeadNutsOn website shows three valves and springs, but I can assure you that you only use two valves, rubber disks and springs and the kit, if I remember correctly, comes with the needed two internal valves and springs. Maybe some of the Carter X fuel pumps use three valves in some applications, but not all.
And when I searched on eBay for "1963 Avanti Carter fuel pump rebuild kit" the same type of kits show in my search results at nearly the same or high costs than the link I posted above. If you should get a rebuild kit for a standard Studebaker V8 fuel pump, that will not work because the diaphragm and all the internal parts are smaller than on the Carter X pumps.
In the factory parts manual, on page 24 of the fuel section, there is a picture of the exploded fuel pump with a C 4024 number below it, don't know what the number represents, is it a Carter #?
My fuel pump from my R2 has the number 0-1529 so I'm wondering if it is the correct pump for an R2 or a replacement somewhere along the way, I know the pumps for an R1 and R2 have different part numbers in the pats manual, don't want to order a rebuild kit if it is not the right fuel pump!,,,
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14 minutes ago, lschuc said:
The picture you show from the shop manual looks to be a smaller diameter fuel pump for a standard V8 engine, not the R-Series engines. Most likely the writers of the Studebaker shop manual did not update this or other photos or diagrams when the Avanti came out. The picture posted on the DeadNutsOn website shows three valves and springs, but I can assure you that you only use two valves, rubber disks and springs and the kit, if I remember correctly, comes with the needed two internal valves and springs. Maybe some of the Carter X fuel pumps use three valves in some applications, but not all.
And when I searched on eBay for "1963 Avanti Carter fuel pump rebuild kit" the same type of kits show in my search results at nearly the same or high costs than the link I posted above. If you should get a rebuild kit for a standard Studebaker V8 fuel pump, that will not work because the diaphragm and all the internal parts are smaller than on the Carter X pumps.
Thank for the info, even though I believe my pump to be original since my R2 has been the road since 1973 , I'll have to clean it up and look for a number so I be sure to order the correct kit; I'm in the process of rebuilding the engine and am torn between using the original mechanical pump or an electric pump mounted back on the frame below the fuel tank,,,
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Yes, others have said the same thing, but it shows a lot of parts the original pump does not show in the Avanti manual, 3 valves, 3 springs, 3 extra rubber parts, etc., if those parts are not needed (unless those parts are there but not shown in the manual?), seems to me only the diaphragm assembly is the most critical part and that can be bought for $22 on e-bay, Carter brand, USA made too!
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13 hours ago, A0136 said:
Rick
Must be a misprint. This is from a Avanti shop manual.
I also thought it could be a misprint, and it is also from the Avanti workshop manual, page 5 of general specifications, wonder if it could be some other type of connecting rod measurement?
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Trying to determine the connecting rod bearing clearance after I had my crank polished, shop said it was in good condition and only needed to be polished, not cut and use std. bearings.
Under the engine section of the workshop manual, if I'm reading the correct specifications for what I am trying to measure, it lists the connecting rod bearing clearance as to being .00025 - .00275 inch.
Is .00025 even measurable with plastigage, the green plastigage goes from .001 - .003 inch; or am I misinterpreting something here wrong?
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Saw this on a facebook Avanti swap page, saying this rebuild kit for a Ford is the same as the Avanti pump but high quality and less expensive than the other vendors; could it be?,,,
Carter High Performance X Fuel Pump Rebuild Kit - Dead Nuts On
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On the 289 R2 can the oil pan be removed to access the bottom end of the engine with the engine still in the car? And is it just a matter of removing the oil pan bolts or does the engine have to be lifted also to remove the pan?
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6 hours ago, A0136 said:
I don’t have a NOS rotor to measure but I just miked a new reproduction rotor and it was .371
If the reproduction rotors are manufactured to the original factory specifications, then that is good to know.
My original rotors measure 3.65 so they're in good enough shape to resurface, they only need to be cleaned up,,,
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The manual lists the factory thermostat at 170 degrees but seems one of that temperature range is hard to find so what is the best choice for an R2 engine, a 160 or a 180?
I should add that the engine is newly rebuild, so I would imagine more friction initially so more heat?
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20 hours ago, mrfeez said:
On my 63 Avanti (289) I have a opening about 1 inch in diameter that appears to be threaded, it is located about 3 inches in back of the Oil drain plug, can anyone tell me what
this is for ? Thank You ( I'm working outside under the car, no garage) Old Tom
Is this on the oil pan itself? A picture would help a lot,,,
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I have a friend that has a 3.31 TT from a '63 Hawk, is that the same as the Avanti rear?,,,
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Couldn't find the minimum thickness of the factory disc brake rotor in any specifications section but found a small paragraph in the brake section saying the minimum thickness is .330", is that correct?
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I would like to let the Avanti world know I have a "Barn Find 64" that will be going up for auction in November. It is a 64 R1 and is completely apart. The auction will be in Hudson FL and will be an online auction.
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted
It would be helpful if you provide a link to the auction site!,,,