Rick Allen
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Posts posted by Rick Allen
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On 4/24/2024 at 1:54 PM, Dwight FitzSimons said:
Which year?
Titled as a '64, round headlights, later production number, one of the last 809/810 produced, so it could be either one,,,
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2 hours ago, Dwight FitzSimons said:
Mark L, which year Studebaker Avanti is your car: '63 or '64? The restrictor is at the fuel pump on '63s and up at the filter closer to the carb on '64s.
That the car's problem only began after you reattached the return line is suspicious.
--Dwight
Does anyone have a picture of this restrictor and return line to post?,,,
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52 minutes ago, TerryR2 said:
Great, thanks...thats what I was thinking. In the trash now.
If you have the room, maybe hold on to it for a few days, someone may recognize it and it may be valuable to someone,,,
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2 hours ago, Leo B said:
Im thinking to change to Dual. Is this simple solution?
https://avantiparts.biz/dual-master-cylinder-conversion-kit/
I'd be surprised if Bob was having these made, more likely selling a replacement master, maybe like the ones suggested for a '74 Dodge Coronet and other Mopar of that vintage; you can by one of those from RockAuto or E-bay for under $40,,,
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9 hours ago, BillyBob said:
Motor in car. What is best way (spray or brush) and best paint to paint motor?
- intake & exhaust manifold removed
- heads off
Looking for experience.
Thanks!!
Either way will work, spray painting itself would be a lot faster but the prep work would take a long time because I would think you would have to do a lot of masking to prevent overspray on other areas under the hood.
On the other hand I have done engines while in the car using high temperature ceramic engine paint and a foam brush, I felt that type of paint applied with a foam brush adhered better than the spray paint and you won't get paint runs as you might, using a spray can in a confined area, so close to what you're trying to spray, but as I said it's a matter of preference,,,
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6 hours ago, A0136 said:
Yes brake hose bracket
Thank you for the picture that helps a lot.
I see you have the brake pads from Moss and now I remember you did comment to one of my posts back when I had purchased the Cobalt calipers and Moss pads.
Back then I had made the comment that with the Moss pads and Cobalt calipers there was about a 3 mm space between the top retaining clip and the top of the pad and I wondered if the pad would move up and down.
Being you still have the original Dunlop calipers is there also a space between repainting clip and the pad and if so, have you noticed if the pad was able to move up at all when braking?,,,
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11 hours ago, 64studeavanti said:
Check plate 11-3 in the parts manual. 1107-33 is the reference. One end attaches to one of the caliper bolts. The other end is for the hose/pipe.
Thank you for your reply, I will get my books out today and check the reference you had sent me, I appreciate it,,,
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My '64 R2 was almost completely part when I bought it, rotors were on but nothing else, now I'm putting the brakes back together, already did the rear, working on the front and can't seem to find in the parts or service manual where these to angled brackets fit. Seems like they are part of the front system, one hole in the bracket is 1/2" so must bolt on somewhere with a 1/2" bolt and then the other hole in the bracket is larger, 5/8" or so, might hold rubber brake hose? Or am I way off?,,,
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1 hour ago, DWR46 said:
Take out the bleed screw. You will find it has a conical indentation instead of a tapered point. The conical indentation is what presses against the ball to seal the bleeder. Many people lose the ball and then tighten the bleeder super tight to try to stop the seepage. All that does is ruin both the bleeder and the ball's seat in the cylinder.
So being a special bleeder screw, back when the car was new and for years after, I would imagine gas stations/garages, where most would probably have service done after the warranty, would have these bleeders on hand? After all, how many cars had disc brakes in those years and those who did, were probably foreign (like the XKE setup on Avanti?,,,
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10 minutes ago, 64studeavanti said:
It would make no sense to go on the input side. If that were the case, the brake fluid would effectively stop the flow into the pistons, meaning no brakes.
It does go into the bleeder port. I believe the theory is that it helps prevent air from entering when bleeding the brakes.
Yes, that would make sense, and the larger flare on the short section of brake tubing would connect to the rubber hose,,,thanks
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Not sure where this (check?) ball should go. The book shows it going into the bleeder port of the piston cylinder casting, and the parts page also shows the ball G145647 (illustration #1103-20) as being "for" that fitting 1558070 (illustration # 1103-17).
However, looking at the short section of brake line that connects to the rubber brake line, it's clean that one end is flared for a ball (as pictured)!
So wouldn't that be where the ball would go, in the port of the casting that connects to the rubber brake line/hose?
Also, I assume this ball acts as a check ball, but I don't see how if the line is tight then it would be holding the ball against the port opening?
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Who can tell me what the amperage is for the factory alternator on my '64 R2, it does not have air conditioning?,,,
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9 hours ago, South Shore Motors said:
I actually kinda like the wheels. Oldsmobile, aren't they? Looks like you already had them on the car before you sold it, 20 years ago. Unless you're planning on a restoration, I'd leave em on there. I've had dreams where I re-acquired a car I'd previously owned... Think it's fantastic that you got yours back.
The wheels aren't bad looking at all on that car but I think Oldsmobile is a completely different bolt pattern isn't it?,,,
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50 minutes ago, Dunkin said:
Any tips on removing these and the knobs? Thank you.
Front knobs/tone controls etc just pull off, then remove the two nuts and washers. Under the dash electrical connections and antenna wire obviously need to be disconnected.
As I remember there is one more chassis nut to remove, located on the bottom corner, passenger side toward the firewall, I used a quarter inch socket, don't remember the exact size, perhaps 7/16 or 3/8 in.
The hardest part is getting access under the dash, after removing the fiberglass panel on the passenger side at the transmission hump, you need to squeeze yourself in on the floor to reach up under the dash at the back of the radio. If the passenger side bucket seat is removed it will make this whole lot easier,,,
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Are 225/70/15 a good size for a slightly wider tire for my '64 R2?,,,
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23 hours ago, Dwight FitzSimons said:
Others have recommended a type 51 battery as a replacement for the 3EE battery in a '63 Avanti. Below are the dimensions. The 51 battery is 0.68 inches wider than the 3EE, so that is the critical dimension. The height is about the same (51 is 0.23" shorter). Below are pix of a '63 Avanti with a type 51 battery installed. It looks like only the rearward hold down is needed.
--Dwight
51 and 51R battery dimensions: 9.375 x 5.0625 x 8.75 inches (L x W x H)
3EE battery dimensions: 19.94 x 4.38 x 8.88 inches
What is the difference between the 51 and the 51R battery?,,,
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1 hour ago, billsr2 said:
Someone is bound to extol the virtues of Autolite but I have older Champs on the shelf. Newer Champs do NOT have the same reputation.
Yes, I agree, some sellers on e-bay have the older Champs listed, they show them and they have the old style packaging,,,
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1 hour ago, Gunslinger said:
NGK plugs are the choice of many. I don't believe any of the old line American named spark plugs are anything more than a name today slapped on whatever is being churned out.
Thanks, do you know the interchange # for an NGK plug?,,,
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I know Champion J-12Y spark plugs are still around but are they a good choice for my newly rebuilt R2 with factory ignition or a more modern replacement plug is better? Also, I haven't decided yet but I may go to a HEI distributor and coil so then what would be the plug of choice for that ignition system?,,,
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14 hours ago, BillyBob said:
Looking to replace my spark plug wires - fire damage. Thoughts on sourcing, please.
Thanks.
If you're looking to keep things pretty much original many of the Avanti parts guys would be able to provide a wire set (one link is below), another option, if you're not quite as fussy, there are many eBay sellers you can buy a high quality American made 8mm wire set for less, however you would have to trim the spark plug ends for a tailored fit,,,
https://avantiparts.biz/avanti-spark-plug-wire-set/
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2 hours ago, Dale Graham said:
The auction site is harrisauctionsllc.com and it will be on November 18 in Hudson Fl. Local preview for the auction will be on Friday the 17th. The car is all apart but the majority of parts are still there. The engine was rebuilt a while back but don't know exactly when. I will try to answer any questions the best I can.
Thanks for the interest.
2 hours ago, Dale Graham said:The auction site is harrisauctionsllc.com and it will be on November 18 in Hudson Fl. Local preview for the auction will be on Friday the 17th. The car is all apart but the majority of parts are still there. The engine was rebuilt a while back but don't know exactly when. I will try to answer any questions the best I can.
Thanks for the interest.
Is there any paperwork that documents the engine rebuild?,,,
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Don't know how or when I came across this letter but thought it interesting and perhaps others would like to see it.
It's dated Nov. 25, 1963, not very long before Studebaker shut down the South Bend factory, it's from a William C. (can't make out the last name), Dir. of Public Relations and sent to a Mr. Bob Palina (don't know who he is), it even mentions "hearing from Studebaker on the country's drag strips in 1964", little did he know what was looming in just a few short weeks,,,
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10 minutes ago, regnalbob said:
It's attached with three pal nuts.
Thank yo, I know it's involves some work to get the inside trim panel off, I was hoping it was not attached with nuts,,,
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How is this chrome trim attached behind the rear quarter windows, does it have fasteners from behind or just pushed into retaining clips?,,
"Standard" Stude V8 fuel pump vs. Avanti R1 fuel pump
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted
My car is all part, the engine is out for rebuild but I did find the fuel pump and the restrictor is on the fuel pump itself so I guess it's a '63,,,