Fourward

It has the wire from the starting solenoid to the coil. I will disconnect the resistor wire and try to start the car. It should start then immediately stall. At least this will prove it is the resistor? As an aside, this car hasn't run in around 43 years at least.

I have ANOTHER resistor for the car. I will check that one tomorrow.

I am grounding the negative to engine, or stainless steel plug wire surround. Both show 12v when I ground the ignition wire. No, not using the - on the coil.

Well, I just put an ignition switch in, and, am not happy with how tight the nuts are that hold the wires on, but I am still getting 12.36 volts at the resistor end of the wire from ignition to resistor. So it couldn't be that??

I don't know if this is able to be answered. My ignition wire goes into the ballast resistor at 12.36 volts. It comes out at 2.5 volts! It is a brand new resistor. Here is the weird thing. Using the old resistor that was on there, and probably good, the same result. I took it off the coil, so the hot wire attaches to one stud and I am measuring at the other stud. Same result if it is attached by wire to the + side of the coil. Of course, no spark. Help!

Thanks so much! I will also check for that ground near the steering column. Great information. This car was all apart when I got it.

Well, I finally got my starter solenoid to click and activate the starter! I ran a temporary ground to the battery. Where should I ground the solenoid?

I took my NSS apart and cleaned up the contacts, a fairly easy job, I was worried it wouldn't be. Now, I have to get the wires attached more firmly. I had a mechanic solder them on, but one came apart when I handled it. I see your wires and connectors look new. Did you attach them and find a new connector? If so, how did you attach them?

I just replaced mine because it dragged out from the car when it was towed, and it bent. 19 1/2 inches. I got it from Studebaker West. Russ, very nice guy. Couldn't find one, apparently this was the only one left in the country. NOS, fair price, fit right on.

Thanks for all your help. I did get the rebuildable brake booster, sent it to Studebaker International. I got a rebuilt one for about $235. SI says they will eventually sell rebuilt ones with no exchange.

Thanks, guys, I will get to work on that.

Could someone please tell me where the wires are located that ground the engine. And, what gauge. Currently...all I have is a small 14? gauge wire from the passenger engine mount to the frame. I don't think that's enough.

I mean all the rubber hoses.

Is the fuel line that goes from the pump to the tank 5/16? Are the rest of them, pipe to pump, pump to carburetor and that small hose on the tank to pipe to pump 3/8?

Geof Park in Avanti Magazine may have one, CA 818 281 4769

Well, I still need one. Apparently they are hard to find. Rod that goes from the gas pedal to the bell crank. Has a little round knob on the end that attaches to the gas pedal. Even if someone has one out of the car and can make an outline or tracing on a piece of paper, I have one that I could possibly bend to the correct shape? Or have a shop do it, I can't do that kind of thing. Anyone?

Sounds good. I'm gonna do that. Thanks!!!

I know its been discussed on here before but I'm kinda confused. I am installing the intake manifold, 63 R1. I have the silver metallic gaskets. Do I need to apply any sealant? What kind, and, where?

Here is a picture of the rod that was attached to the floorshift. The end is threaded, not a hole for a cotter pin. I put those nuts on there.

Still have any parts? I am interested in the arm rests.

My trans to gearshift rod has about an 80 degree bend in it. The end that attaches to the transmission has threads for a nut. I see the parts book has a spring washer and cotter pin. Do I have an incorrect part? Did they make more than one?

Just put the engine in. Automatic. 63 Avanti. The shift lever rod is attached to the gear shift side. It is hanging down, not attached to the transmission. I can't even see the hole on the lever on the transmission where the rod attaches. The rod won't even clear the exhaust and transmission to get there anyway. (The rod does not look exactly like the rod shown in the parts manual, further complicating things. But it looks like it was always attached to the gear shift.) Any help appreciated. I hope I do not have to move the engine back out. At this point I think I would even cut a hole in the fiberglass transmission tunnel.

AAAGhhh. I have the wrong ones on there anyway. I have the brackets, but there are no rubber cushions on them, just bolts. I noticed that while looking at the parts manual page above. Does anyone have a used pair that they would like to sell? I know I can get them from the vendors but...

I have that spacer, one of the suppliers mentioned it and why it goes there. To clear some part or tilt the engine because of some part, I forget why. Sorry.