Fourward

Yeah, I am close enough to Hazleton. Lets see if my engine runs when I install it. Fingers crossed.

Yes, I am watching this too. I also live in PA. Central PA. If my engine doesn't run because I put it together, I may be going to a machine shop myself. Is yours shop close by?

I wish I could! It seems like it is an integral part of the rod. ?? I found 2 nuts in small pile of junk in a drawer that fit! It is a 1/8 inch thread, so they are very small. I plan on putting a spring washer, a washer, then the two nuts, which will lock each other on. I guess that will work.

Ahh, thank you, Dwight. Even though this is a 63, it has the look of being attached at the filter between pump and carb.

I have two lines from the gas tank. One, of course, is the fuel line, it has a tee in it that can be used to drain the tank. It runs up to where the fuel pump would be. (Engine is not in the car) The other line runs alongside the fuel line, comes out in the engine compartment, then has a longer hose on it that goes past the fuel pump, and ends in a tee. Does anyone know what this attaches to? Shop manual has a diagram at the tank, vent line (3) attaches near the filler neck. Doesn't show where it goes however.

Zedman, Yeah, that is exactly what I am talking about. I guess a lot can happen in 60 years, someone must have changed that part. I can get the spring washer and washer, I'll have to look for a nut that fits those threads. Thank you.

The shop manual says there is a washer spring, washer #10, then a cotter pin 1/16 x 1/2 where the arm from the gearshift attaches to the transmission. My gearshift arm has no provision for a cotter pin. There is an integral threaded shaft on the end, it looks like it is 1/8 inches in diameter. In fact, the shop manual shows a nut, speed nut? where the arm attaches. My assumption is spring washer, washer, then a speed nut or course threaded nut? Does anyone know the exact nut and dimensions, like course or fine thread? And if those two washers go on there.

Good luck, Rick!!! Wish I was bold enough to do that, let us know!

Bought a Turner Brake System, don't need 'em anymore.

Well, to end the thing then, Zedman, that was solid advice, I can't get the one caliper apart, the bolts are so rusted, I would have to pay my mechanic to disassemble one of them, so by the time I got done paying him, and getting the 4 x $110 pistons from SI, then brake shoes, I'd be bumping up against the cost of "NEW" calipers from Bob Ziff. $595. That bumps me into Turner Brake territory which gets me the rotors too, I gotta think my rotors are shot on this car, everything else was. So, I just ordered the Turner Brakes from Bob. ( I'm not that handy, the Jaguar parts look inviting but I KNOW I'm going to have to modify something.)

Moss told me that as long as there was no brake fluid in the parts, or anything to prevent them from being sold again, that they would be happy to take them back.

I waited out Moss motors and somebody finally answered. I asked if the hardware was metric or standard, he put me on hold for 10 minutes and couldn't answer. I mentioned that they probably sell the hose that attaches, he looked at it and could only say the threads were fine. I asked the Jaguar Forum about the threads, used to have an 89 XJS, I think they are 24 UNF. In any case, they make an adapter that goes from the 10 metric to our standard fitting. Do the hoses fit? Who knows. Yeah, those pins have me worried.

Yeah! Success! 64 Stude, I cleaned all the paint off where I was connecting the cables, used the new cables that are going on the car, it cranked nice and fast. Yeah, cheap jumper cables, and those were my GOOD jumper cables. THANKS!!

There seems to be a pin that will prevent mounting on the picture of the Jaguar pistons? Is there a hard line connecting one piston to the other? Will it interfer with the wheel?

Looking for 2 good front calipers, that work. For a 1963 Avanti.570 898 1992

Well, that didn't work. Mine are frozen out not in.

I also thought it was paint, and, sanded the areas off. Still slow. I had help setting all the valves. I think I have my heavy jumper on there, but will attach the wires from the car. All good ideas.

Doing the braking system. The calipers are frozen beyond repair. I was thinking of getting new ones, they are available, $600. Then I thought well just get the Turner brake system, $700. I think I could install it, the heating those rings that go over the spindle and pounding or pressing in the bearings has me a little worried, but the rotors come with it along with everything else for only $100 more. The third option; if anyone has a set of calipers that actually work, and, at a reasonable cost, I would buy them and I can put them on in an hour. Anyone?Thanks.

How about disconnecting the starter and cranking it?

Based on what I am reading I think a rebuild is my next move.

Nelson, yes, took the engine down to the pistons, honed the cylinders. The engine seemed good, the guy I had helping me remarked that the car probably had 33K on it, not 133K based on the condition of the engine. Put it together, it spun freely at all times when we checked it.

It is an MDU.

Oh, maybe on the tag the last figures are 10 S. Starts with an M.

Brad, How do you tell if it is an R series?

I'm gonna ask this in advance. I have my engine on a hoist, almost ready to go in. I hooked the starter up to a new battery. It seems to crank slowly, I hope its enough to start the engine. Now would be the time to get it going faster with the engine out. Instead of da da da da daaa it goes rrruh...ruhhhh,...rrruuhh. I know Studebakers catch quickly, with hardly any starter cranking, but, what do you think?