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JavierB

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Posts posted by JavierB

  1. On my 81, the heater fan makes noise but there is almost zero airflow, even on High.  So figured I would start with the basics and look for clogged ducts.  The workshop manual for the Studes shows an air filter on the passenger side, but I see no such thing anywhere.  Where on the later Avanti's with AC is that intake and filter?  Or does it not exist?

    On a general note, is there a way to troubleshoot the fan and ducts without pulling apart the entire heater core assembly?  And is there a good step by step on doing that somewhere?

    Thanks in advance for any help.

  2. On 1/22/2021 at 10:16 PM, The Inventor said:

    I was the national account manager for Skytop.  I not only signed franchisees but trained them as well.  I also had a shop in Norwalk, CT.  We had the distinction of being the only shop able to install power moonroofs in Maserati Biturbo's. Anyway I am located north of Boston not really in the sunroof business anymore but if you have an Avanti with a Skytop there is a very good chance I can repair it and have the facilities to fabricate parts.  To address an earlier comment, in the trade a moonroof is a glass panel and a sunroof is metal.

    Hi again.  I'm wondering if you have any of the SkyTop weatherseal for the front?  Its a fuzzy one that wraps around the two sides and the front.  I have a new rear one but cannot so far locate the front one.  If you do not have this, would you maybe know how to find it?  was there a manufacturer for it or was it used in other more mainstream cars that may have more easily available parts?  Thanks in advance!

  3. On 3/29/2011 at 9:20 PM, sawczak said:

    Thanks! It would be great if we could figure out what year Ford or Lincoln used these sunroofs. The parts would be easier for others to track down.

    Steve

    Hi Steve.  Did anything ever come of this thread?  Its a decade later, and I'm also looking for the front weatherseal of my 81 Avanti with a SkyTop moonroof.  Dan Booth has the rear one and is sending it, but he doesnt have the front one that wraps around the two sides and front.  Any advice on your search would be welcome.  Thanks!

     

  4. So who has an opinion on the purpose of this canvas material?  I'm obviously replacing it, but is it here just to prevent an accidental scrape on the glass or what?  I would rather spray mount something than have this flimsy tape-based deal.  Advice?

     

  5. A couple of hours of WD40 later it came free!

    For some ungodly reason there is a cloth liner on this that is held on by cloth tape that goes all the way to the edge, meaning it sits in the slider channel.  So after 40 years it had gotten shredded and folded and gunked and then it sat for a decade hardening.

    But now its FREE!  one step closer!  on the plus angle, the leather side is spanking new looking.

    sunshade Underside.JPG

  6. Hit a snag on my SkyTop re-bonding project:  The sunshade won't budge.  Its open all the way, as it has been since i got the car.  I got the glass out, and figured that would maybe help dislodge the sunshade.  No dice.  stuck fast and completely.  any advice?

    I've tried moving the power bar forward and back and that changes nothing.  there were some shredded bits of weatherseal, fabric liner, and some cloth tape up there, so it could be gunked up, but not sure what to do about it.

  7. Hi folks.

    What exactly ARE the wire wheels in the 81 Avanti?  The build sheet and paperwork just says "Wire Wheels" but certainly there is a manufacturer/model?

    I've got a couple of these with some irreversible rust issues, and wondering about the ability of finding a couple of replacements, but don't have any idea what to look for or what the wallet-damage would be.

    Any info is welcome, thanks!  Image of my wheel attached.

    Screen Shot 2021-09-06 at 11.07.17 AM.jpg

  8. An update on the door:

    What I did was mark where the door was and where the striker plate was, and then also mark a point a quarter inch higher.  I removed the striker and loosened the door bolts, and used ratchet straps wrapped around the whole car, 2x4 pieces and some bits of old carpet to keep the door snug into the frame and then raised it a quarter inch out of alignment on the striker side.  Tightened it all down, and now its perfect.

    **I know this may not last** if there are other problems that are causing the sag, those may resurface.  But it works for now, and I probably need to remove doors and all the weatherstrip when I paint, so we will see what happens then.

    Highly recommend the ratchet strap method of keeping the doors snug, although it means you have to climb through the windows to get in and out of the car to tighten the bolts, it was the best solution for me.

    Now on to the next thing.  🙂

     

  9. Hi Folks.  Just a bit of info I slowly uncovered.  I had a missing knob on my 81 Recaro seats, and all attempts to find Recaro replacement parts proved fruitless.

    BUT it turns out that the 80 style Recaros are the same as the ones in E21 BMW's, and BWW parts are a lot easier to come by, including the Recaro knobs.  They are BMW branded, but so what?  I can deal with that.  Heres a link to the knob I wound up getting, which is a perfect fit.  Stupid expensive for a piece of plastic, but there ya go.

    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/seat-recliner-knob/52101875826/

  10. UPDATE:  The sender unit from AvantiParts.biz was a relatively simple install.  Its a Stewart-Warner unit, and it comes pre-cut to size from AvantiParts with a gasket and new bolts.

    One Word of Caution: Most Avanti tank senders are apparently secured with 10-32 Fine thread bolts.  My 1981 is NOT.  so I spent most of a morning cursing my poor alignment skills in trying to get wrong threaded bolts into the holes before checking that simple thing.  I reused my old bolts and it took just minutes.  So I'm not sure what years/numbers may be different, but don't assume, like I did, that the bolts in the kit will work.

  11. Okay!  The rear seat removal was actually EASY.  Literally the first thing I've done on this car that was super straightforward and simple!  Looks like the previous owner installed new gas lines and brand new filter up top.  The condition of the gas sender, covered in rust, makes it no surprise that its not working.  🙂

     

     

    IMG_9037.thumb.JPG.191438e898ea0160bf9f13eedd70633b.JPG

    IMG_9039.JPG

  12. 9 hours ago, studegary said:

    Yes, it matters.  The striker/latch should only hold the door shut, not cause alignment.  The door alignment should be correct without a striker/latch being there.  

    I dont think you get my meaning, or I dont get yours.  I know that the door has to *ultimately* align without the striker, but I dont understand why some of you are saying I can't use the striker to correctly SET the alignment?  I mean, yes, shims and all that, but the striker helps me get it in perfect position to tighten the bolts, so why is that a bad method?  I've tried tape and maybe its just my door or my weatherstrip, but it keeps popping out slightly and falling out of alignment without using the striker.  Yes, if i had a helper pushing on the outside it would work, but I don't and the striker seems to fill that need perfectly.  I dont mean to be argumentative, I just want to understand why this method isnt valid or doesnt work?

    I can get perfect alignment.  I can tighten the bolts on this alignment.  My issue is that once i open the door, it sags a quarter inch at the latch end.  So if that means its hinge pins/bushings, how do I get at those?  Or alternately, is it a bad idea to align the door tilting a quarter inch too high so that it sags into the the correct height?  (that seems to be just delaying a future repair, but just wondering).

    Does anyone anywhere have a diagram or images of what the hinges actually look like and how they are attached and how to get to the pins?

  13. On 8/15/2021 at 5:55 AM, Jim78 said:

    I haven't replaced mine yet.  But, I have seen positive comments about Duque Hoodliner who offers a hood insulator for the Avanti at $115.  Their web site has information on the recommended procedures for installation.  Removal of the hood is a must, but that's not difficult.

    https://www.hoodliners.net/s/shop

    I've seen some good reviews on these as well.  I'm probably going to pull the trigger on this in the next week or two and report back on the results.  I am dreading the task of removing the old one though.

     

  14. 13 minutes ago, Avanti83 said:

    By shimming the door, I mean use any combination of wood and cardboard between the door edge and the door opening. Easier to do with the seat out. Just keep adding shim material along the bottom and both sides until the door is positioned centered in the door opening. Then tape it in place to hold it both centered in the opening and aligned with the outside of the car. Then shim and tighten the door hinges.

    The hinges can be removed with the door off then take out the bolts holding them to the body.

    I understand how the shimming works, I just don't understand how using the striker to help isn't a valid method?  does it matter how it gets into the right position so long as it does?  

     

  15. Hey guys.

    so next up is getting a working fuel gauge.  the gauge seems to work fine, or at least it will register full if I short it.  So I pulled out the old sender unit and it looks like its been through a few wars, so I'm replacing it for sure.

    NOTE: I removed this through the rear access hole in the trunk.  BIG MISTAKE.  I can't imagine a scenario in which the unit, even if was in perfect condition could be removed without being completely ruined in the twisting, yanking, bending necessary to get it out that way.  For the replacement I plan on removing the rear seats.  (the instructions in the workshop manual simply say "remove" which is a bit comical.  I know for a fact I'm going to be on this board tomorrow asking for help.)

    But to the task at hand: I'm buying a new sender unit.  any advice?  There is one from SI, but is that the same low tech item I just pulled out?  There is also a less expensive item from AvantiParts:

    https://avantiparts.biz/sender-gas-tank/

    and also a unit from Classic Instruments:

    https://shop.classicinstruments.com/sn35

    Wondering if anyone has any recommendations/advice on any of these or a better alternative?  Both the AvantiParts unit and the Classic Instruments use a plastic neoprene float, but I'm not sure about the SI unit.  Thanks for any ideas.

     

  16. 1 hour ago, studegary said:

    Open your door about half way.  How much can you move the door up and down (play in the hinge/pin)?

    Perhaps I am simplifying this too much.  Have you adjusted where the door bolts to the hinge to give you proper alignment without the use of the striker?    

    Very little play, but enough to get it level with the striker and close nicely if I'm pulling up on it.  I mean, it there is at least a quarter inch upward play, which is the amount of the sag. 

    I'm not sure I understand the striker question.  Does it matter if adjust the hinge with only wood shims rather than shims plus striker?  The door is perfectly positioned with loose hinge bolts when its on the striker.  I have a bitch of a time getting it to stay in position without it (I'm doing this largely on my own, so I dont have anyone to push against the door and keep it stable), so is there a reason that it is in in any way different?  My problem isnt getting it set squarely, but rather that it doesnt stay that way.

    Related question:  with the door bolts loose, the set of three on the top hinge will move fore and aft a little bit, maybe a quarter of an inch, and they move as a set.  So does it matter if I tighten them at any particular point in that travel?  I dont really understand why there is that degree of play there.

  17. 4 hours ago, Avanti83 said:

    If the door drops 1/4" when opened then there's probably some wear or movement in the hinges. Remember these are long doors and to get 1/4" drop on the striker end only requires a small movement on the hinge end. I'd be sure the bolts mounting the hinge to the body are tight and there is no wear in the hinge pins before I'd readjust the door again.

    I like to shim the door into alignment with the door hinge bolts out and the door taped into the position I want. I then add the spacer shims between the hinge and door and then bolt the door hinges into position. 

    Using the striker assembly for alignment will only cause excessive wear and early replacement. 

    So how do I check/replace the hinge pin?  I mean, unlike most car doors I've seen, the actual hinge is inside the fender, do i have to disassemble the front end to get at it?  Sorry if this sounds stupid, but the workshop manual doesnt show anything about the pins and I've found nothing so far in my online search of these hinges.

    While you may be correct that using the striker for alignment may cause extra wear, it does give me perfect alignment, so that part isn't the problem, its that the alignment doesnt hold no matter how tight the bolts, so maybe worn bushings or pins is the problem?  Are there any illustrations of how replacing these pins is achieved?

     

  18. 53 minutes ago, Bill Hanlon said:

    I gave up and took it to a respected body shop. Not perfect but much better than I could do. 

    A fair solution.  at some point I'm doing a full paint job and the door situation may wait til then if there is no relatively simple thing i can try.

  19. As with about half of my Avanti projects, I'm here again with a question.

    My 81 has a passenger door that when closed is spot on.  But it sags about a quarter inch when it leaves the striker, making it a slammer door instead of the gentle close i have on the drivers door.  I have already loosened and re-tightened the door-side hinge bolts several times and I'm either doing it wrong or I need to do something else.  I know that one solution might be to get the striker side of the door a quarter inch higher than the strike plate and then tighten it, but I can figure out how to do that - i've tried, and messed up every other gap in the process and had to redo it all again.   any advice?  any go-to diagrams or videos that are relevant to these doors?

  20. Any advice here on replacing the hood insulation?  Mine has a sort of rubber surface with fiberglass behind it, but its all detaching and fiberglass is falling out of the sides everywhere.  I can see already that *removing* this will be a shitshow.  But before i do I'm looking at replacement options, perhaps that do not involve fiberglass.  I see that StudebakerParts.com and SI each have one for "Early Avanti II's" but does that rule out the later ones?  Mine is 81, definitely not early.  and are these the same fiberglass ones?

    Anyway, before I spend another week poking around websites, figured I would ask experts here where they bought theirs and if there were any best/worst.  And any advice on removing the existing mess.

     

    Thanks!

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