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Desert Driver

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Posts posted by Desert Driver

  1. I'm thinking of going to either a 16 or 17 inch wheel, and wondering what tires would be best for road handling without a harsh ride. The original 15 inch Magnum 500s are showing their age. Current tire size is P205/75R15, and the speedometer displays accurately. A sportier stance is my objective. Any suggestions from those who have made such a change?  

  2. Here in the desert, hot outside air is of little benefit to cool the scorching hot Borg Warner transmission. My air tubes were completely rotted and I had no desire to replace them. So a trip to the local hardware for two rubber stoppers solved the air and water penetration problem. I used silicone adhesive and a rubber mallet to install the stoppers to the cowl opening. 

  3. 23 hours ago, Footer said:

    Try putting some type of rubber hose as a spacer and adjust the hood latches up. And let us know. Mike

    That's probably the quickest and least expensive remedy. The air from the electric fan blows up, so allowing it to escape under the back of the hood makes a lot of sense. Just want to make sure I don't crack the fiberglass with that thing flopping around!

    I run with Evans coolant, which does a pretty good job of lowering temps. Biggest problem is living in the desert with a car that really wasn't designed for the desert. But I do recall pictures of the Avanti at Loewy's home in Palm Springs. Bet those pictures weren't taken in the summer 🥵

     

  4. 5 hours ago, Gunslinger said:

    A downside to allowing the hood to remain unlatched is that the hot air being allowed out can easily go down the intakes to the interior and transmission cooling ducts at the base of the windshield.  Besides adding to the already known hot interior of the car and even more heated air to the transmission tunnel do you really want to be breathing in engine bay air?  

    Good point...(cough, cough). I plugged those two holes that take air to the transmission shifter. IMHO that was a bandaid solution for a problem that remains today. I've also plugged the footwell vents to prevent outside air getting into the cabin. In Arizona, we don't need outside air competing with a marginal AC system such as mine. For outside air, I crack the wing vents and kick open the rear windows. Works great, and zero fumes from my engine.

  5. 11 hours ago, studegary said:

    My first thought was holes in the inner fender, but you already did that.  The lower air deflector is a good idea.  I suggest going with a less powerful (less air movement) electric fan.   Is your fan thermostatically operated or does it just run?  Do you have a manual switch on the fan to see if shutting it off makes a difference?

    I've heard good things re: the air dam and may give it a shot.  My fan is thermostatically controlled, but I don't want to shut it off...especially in the Valley's 115 degree heat! Because the Avanti's radiator is mounted at an angle and the electric fan is a puller, a tremendous force of hot air is pushed upward in the engine compartment. That's why the engine compartment cools down when the hood is partially opened. A grille in the hood near the forward cowl would probably work wonders for air circulation. Unfortunately it radically changes the appearance of the vehicle, and I'm sure I'd hear about it!  😱

  6. One thing leads to another on the engine cooling project.

    I installed a four inch aluminum radiator with a 3200cfm electric fan. Works great in town, but on the freeway as more air enters into the engine compartment and boosted by the electric fan, the water temp rises to an unsafe level. Pull the car off the highway and things start to cool down. And it really cools down when the hood is popped open, using the inside release.

    I don't want to damage the hood by having it bounce around by being partially open. But has anyone had luck getting the hot air out of an Avanti engine compartment? Putting vent grilles in the hood near the front cowl would probably work, but definitely would change the appearance of the car. I've drilled the six holes into the wheel wells, but that's nowhere near the opening size needed to disperse air from a 3200cfm fan and what comes in from the road at highway speeds.

    I've even thought of reversing the fan direction, and push air out the tiny grille. Aside from moving to cooler climes, any thoughts?

     

     

     

  7. From Bob Johnstone's excellent web page:  https://studebaker-info.org/avanti_all.html

    The last Studebaker assembled was Avanti #R-5643 on 12/31/63. R 5643 is an original R3. The order was written on 10-7-63 and the final assembly date was on 12/31/63. In 1978 most of the actual production dates were, apparently, unknown. According to Mr Krem. R5643 was built with manual steering and the quick steering ratio. It is in the Crawford Museum in Cleveland, OH, and has less than 10K miles. It was donated by former Studebaker dealer Joe Erdelac (now deceased). In 1975 he tried to sell the car for $100K (!), which made Cleveland TV and newspapers. There was a handwritten note in the trunk of the car that said something like "This is the last Studebaker Avanti built, 12/31/63, Happy New Year" and was signed by an employee with his badge number as well.

    Addendum/
    From Web searches
    "The Illustrated Studebaker Buyer's Guide" lists R5642 & R5643 as 
    the "final production Avantis". These were two of the nine (Production) R3's 
    made. They actually repeat that R5643 was the last car, three times!
    The guide also says that there were at least five engineering 
    prototypes, EX-2942 and EX-2944 to EX2947. Those last four were given 
    serial #'s R5650 to R5653; so as many as ten may have been put 
    together after production.
    20AVANTI-image2-superJumbo.png?quality=9

     

  8. On 8/1/2020 at 6:02 AM, mfg said:

    Mr. Egbert lost his job by ONE vote!:o

     

    I am now in possession of the minutes of the Board meeting on 11/22/63, and they tell a different story.

    The vote to accept Sherwood Egbert's resignation was unanimous (5-0). Documentation indicates there were significant differences between Egbert and the Board. At the same meeting, Byers Burlingame was elected President and CEO by unanimous approval.

     

  9. It was probably a mere formality as Egbert agreed to a buyout for his resignation. So my guess is all directors voted "aye" to accept. And my guess is all directors voted Byers Burlingame in as new President & CEO on that fateful day in November 1963.

  10. The mic cord is routed between the windshield and dash, then does a 90 degree turn up the A pillar trim. It is clipped on the trim between the door opening and the headliner. (sorry, but I don't see a photo rotation function on the Forum toolbar) I used plastic trim pullers to gently lift trim pieces and wedge the wire in place. When you place a call using Bluetooth, the speakers serve as receivers and the mic picks up your voice without any interference from the AC blower. My rear view mirror is dash mounted, so eliminated placement of the mic there.

    As far as the USAB port, I purchased a mounting bracket online and installed it under the dash on the passenger side, close to the center console. I did not drill any holes into the dash, nor attempt to route it to either glovebox. Because I link my iPhone to the radio with Bluetooth, I've never used the USAB port. 

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  11. Yup...did mine last year. Purchased an AM/FM with bluetooth from RetroSound https://www.retromanufacturing.com  They also offer an upgrade for Sirius/XM. I purchased all new speakers; ran all new wiring, and was able to mount the mic in the trim along the front windshield. Access is thru the speaker grille directly over the radio, and the radio opening itself. Didn't have to cut anything, but being nimble and patient really helps. I also series wired some mini speakers into the front speaker opening, but that's a whole different subject! Feel free to personal message if you have ???s  

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  12. 6 hours ago, M&M said:

    Maybe I am using the wrong name for what I need? The ram that sits just below the crankshaft engine pulley that sits horizontal and is hooked to the steering. My old engine pulley was rubbing on this when the car was turned sharply and it is leaking fluid. With my new 383 stroker engine I have about 1/2” clearance.   What is this Power steering ram called .

     

    It's a hydraulic ram that provides "assist", as opposed to modern power steering units. I replaced mine with a rebuilt ram, then had to replace the steering pump as it wasn't delivering the kind of pressure needed to adequately move the ram. Then one of the high pressure hoses that powers the ram rubbed against a frame rail and sprung a leak, spewing fluid all over the hot exhaust pipe. The routing of those hoses is critical as they move quite a bit while turning the steering wheel. As Jim78 mentioned, the steering system used by Studebaker and found on early Avanti II's is an antiquated design. It works, but it aint like a modern system. 

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  13. My understanding is the Avanti was to be the styling inspiration for all new '65 Studebakers, replacing the GT Hawk and Lark series. But by Sept '63 (date on the photos) the Avanti was not the car that would save Studebaker. In spite of disappointing sales, Egbert wanted to continue on with automotive production. The Board didn't, and accepted his resignation in November. Byers Burlingame took over, and the rest is history.

    I find Kellog's comment about adding front fender scoops to address engine heat interesting. While the grille under the front bumper pleased Loewy, it sure as heck didn't help vent engine heat. Guess Hardig & Co didn't have much, or any say in that design decision. 

     

     

     

  14. Round headlights, no less. And am my eyes playing tricks on me? Looks like the trajectory front wheel opening has been restored. Any way you can rotate these pix so I don't have to turn my head 90 degrees? 🙃

  15. My '71 has clear bulbs that were dipped in red paint. IMHO painting the bulbs is not a good plan as the paint reduces light intensity; runs hotter than clear bulbs, then cracks and flakes off over time. I've noticed only the gauges are affected by the switch for bright and dim. If money wasn't an issue, I'd go with LED lighting that allows you to dial in a range of different colors. 

  16. I purchased an AM/FM with Bluetooth and new speakers from RetroSound last year https://www.retromanufacturing.com  (they offer a Satellite radio option as well)  Did the install myself with all new wiring to both doors, as well as the rear deck lid. Very pleased with the sound and their customer support. After the installation I wondered why I couldn't hear the radio or music from my iPhone very well while driving. Turns out, the cause was the placement of door panel speakers...behind the front seats and below waist level (1971 Avanti II). I couldn't  move the door panel speakers forward or up due to clearance problems in the doors. I didn't want to mess up the clean look of the cabin with surface mounted speakers. So my solution was to series wire two mini speakers into the front dash grille (which never had a speaker).  Now I can hear the radio just fine in the front seat without blasting out those in the rear! I have pictures of the install if anyone is interested in tackling a radio replacement themselves.

  17. 10 hours ago, Jim78 said:

    It's interesting that the build sheet specified the Studebaker "S" badging on the doors and rear seat.  Did they actually get installed ?  

     

    It be interesting to see the agreement between Studebaker and Avanti Motors regarding the use of Studebaker badging on the Avanti II. I recall reading Studebaker didn't want the public to think they were making Avantis after the South Bend shutdown. The early Avanti II's made by Newman-Altman didn't have the Lazy S, but as time went on, you'd see it on the hood gun sight; the door panels; and between the rear seats. On my '71, where the rear seat medallion would go is a leather covered plastic plug. Maybe after Hamilton was closed, Studebaker didn't care anymore?

  18. I've got one of each on my '71. The front has the long overline on top, while the rear has the long underscore on the bottom. To be perfectly honest, I much prefer the long line on the bottom as it looks better next to the Avanti script emblem. A case can be made for having the long underscore on the bottom as that's how Stude used the Roman Numerals on the Lark. Now just for kicks, why did Loewy allow the Studebaker logotype on the rear deck of the Avanti? It looks so out of place and dated compared to his modern Avanti logo and multiple Lazy S badges.

     

    image.png.9eeb9079ed8d412c5eed2e10232e7f1c.png

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