Jump to content

Desert Driver

AOAI Forum Members
  • Posts

    186
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Desert Driver

  1. I paid approx $25 to ship it to Carson City from Phoenix via UPS (insured the booster for $200). They rebuilt and shipped it back for a grand total of $175 and a few cents. Super fast..super service..and they don't farm the work out to a third party.

  2. These boosters don't last forever, and when it's time for a rebuild you're left wondering who'll do the job? Such was the case on my '84.  Even in Phoenix there was only one outfit who said they might be able to do it...provided I pull the booster and take it to their counter (wouldn't look at photos). So it was time for Plan B.

    Try Power Brake Exchange in Carson City NV if you're looking for a booster rebuild at a fair price that doesn't take weeks! They turn 'em in one business day, a little longer if you want powder coating. Excellent customer service and support. They even adjusted the push rod to the correct length to work with my master cylinder. 775-297-4795. 

    As Willie would say...."On the road again", and with brakes that stop the way Mr Blake built the car!

     

  3. Unfortunately there's no outside mirror control in the console. If you look at the door panel, you'll see a cut out and mounting ring for the switch. There's also a cut out for the power door lock switch (blue tape used to identify both). Another owner also removed the power door locks switches. The wiring and actuators are there, but without a switch, no can use.

    Pure hackery as evidenced by the original equipment list posted above.  Many thanks to the Avanti Nation for answering my questions 🙌

     

     

  4. All good suggestions. Many thanks to the Avanti Nation for assistance.

    Of the two different styles of back up lights, my preference is the 1985 license plate huggers.  

    image.png.d47c9e0e912955423356ea80e11366ef.png

    If I can't find them (or the price is too crazy) I'll probably go with Plan B - aftermarket. I need the dough to buy fuel for my baby!

  5. You tried, and that matters most!
     

    From what I’ve read and heard, the location of the reservoir, and how it’s attached, is problematic. So I’ll be putting a tank or bag in a different location and moving on. 

    I’m still curious about the purpose of the part in my last photo. All kinds of vacuum lines on that engine - some I understand, others I have no clue!

  6. I didn't have this problem with my late '71 Avanti (RIP). But speed bumps and my '84 Avanti don't get along at all. Here's why: ground clearance from the frame rail is 5 1/4". Clearance from the transmission cross member is 3.5", and even less when you factor in the threaded bolts and nuts. 700R4 tranny. 245/45 ZR 17 tires, and no sign the car has been lowered. I'm not a bottom feeder, so any suggestions?

  7. On 6/24/2024 at 4:41 AM, mfg said:

    On my ‘83, the tank broke away from it’s mounting studs that go through firewall… This situation caused the tank to spring a leak which found its way into interior over pedals….

    Needless to say after that experience I located a generic tank in a new location and just  extended the hoses.

     

     

    Bob Ziff of Avanti Parts confirms the reservoir on Blake era cars is prone to leakage around the mounting studs. So, it's on to Plan B. In all likelihood I'll have to move some of the electrical blocks and gizmos on the passenger side inner fender and put a tank or bag there. I'm kind of fond of the Studebaker "S" bag.

    Bonus points: what is the purpose of the block with a vacuum nipple on the right side? It's connected to power, but its function is beyond my pay grade.

     

    IMG_7926.jpeg

  8. 1984 Avanti with the wiper fluid reservoir removed by a previous owner. I can't seem to figure out its original location - in the front there's the battery, radiator and radiator expansion tank. On the inner fender panels, all kinds of electrical connection blocks on both sides. At the firewall, too much stuff against it. The only open spot is the shallow shelf behind the brake booster, but that doesn't seem right. If you have a photo to share, pls include in your response.

    IMG_7897.jpeg

  9. 3 hours ago, silverstude said:

    Can you take a picture of the brakes and the rear axle housing.  It will help immensely.    There also may be tags attached to the differential bolts that can tell the tale. 

     

    Here's what my mechanic sent to me. I can get additional photos if that will help.

    image.thumb.png.0f4ccf49f8714363338777f28b4ef2e8.pngimage.thumb.png.9c47976484aba338fe17bbcd808530ae.png

     

  10. A previous owner installed aftermarket disc brakes on my '84. Pads extend about a half inch above the rotors, and there's no parking brake capability. So we ordered the Turner disc conversion and learned the axle has larger backing flanges than the Studebaker/Newman Altman built Avantis, plus the bolt pattern is off. Doing a deep dive in AOAI archives, I get the feeling I'm not alone in having this problem. The names Jeep and International Harvester occasionally are mentioned. Gotta have rear brakes for my ride. Suggestions?? 

    On the left, the correct retaining plate. The one on the right is from my car. Mismatch on bearings, too.

    image.png.cdcde2a9921443feb560a4912d08be2f.png

  11. On 3/27/2024 at 12:10 PM, George Rohrbach said:

    The old adhesive was terrible to remove. Combination of scraping, sanding, abrasive pad, (all the while being careful not to wreck the stainless-steel beads). Also, every chemical that I own.

    By the way, none of the chemicals did much at all. 2 different adhesive removers didn't touch it.  

    Same here. I'm convinced they used Loctite to minimize warranty claims. 

×
×
  • Create New...