R2W55
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Posts posted by R2W55
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I just double checked and the bushings have not been tightened yet. I just checked with a MOOG Representative and the 2 springs are compatible.
I guess I'll have to wait until I get the body back on.
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Thanks. That eases my mind. I would hate o have to disassemble the control arms again to replace. just curious, about how much distance is there between your frame and the upper control arm bumper?
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I am now putting my 78 back together! But something does not seem right!
I replaced the Front Coils springs with Moog CC653, variable rate springs. I had read a couple of articles on Avanti Websites sites that said these were a good replacement. The Moog CC655 were the recommended but are no longer available.
I replaced all the bushings, rebuilt the kingpins and reassembled the upper and lower control arms (no engine or body yet) using a chain around the frame and floor jack (actually a truckers strap) to compress the spring and reassemble the king pins. All went well. As expected, with no weight on the frame, the upper control arm bumper was sitting on the frame.
I have put the engine and transmission back on the frame. I expected at this point to see some compression of the spring. NONE! With a jack stand under the lower control arm, and pushing down on the frame, I still do not get any compression. I again put the floor jack under the lower control arm and wrapped a chain around it and the frame. I can get compression this way. The upper/lower control arms do move up and down as expected.
Does this sound normal? Is the body going to add that much more weight? Did I order the wrong springs?
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I wasn't sure of years that would work so thank you for the information. I have the dash out of the car. Yes it was pain, but not too bad. Yes I have tagged all the wiring. I still have to trace out some of the 'extra' switches.
I am probably about a year away from putting the interior back in but I like to line up all the materials ahead of time.
I just finished the chassis, rebuilding the all the bushings and kingpins, steering, differential etc.... Just about ready to put Tie rods and steering box back in. Also put Turner brakes on front but still keeping the Drum brakes on back.
I just thought if someone had a old dash sitting around I might try to recover it. As you can see mine is not too bad but i don't want to put it back in that way. If I recover it I 'might have to eliminate the pleating but I don't want to. Just want to 'play' around to see if can do it!
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Does anyone have an old Avanti Dash available? I want to try my hand at re-upholstering one but don't want to destroy my current one.
I am aware of the reproduction one available from Nostalgic Motors.
My car is a 1978 so it would have to be compatible. I assume anything before 1980 would work but don't know for sure.
My current dash, while probably repairable, is very brittle and cracked which I know is a common problem.
I would like to pay at little as possible as this is an experiment and I have never tried this before. I have viewed a few UTUBE videos and it doesn't look impossible just very tedious.
If I am successful, I would try to document this for other owners to see if they would like to try it.
I am in the Chicago area or I am going to be at the May 4th Studebaker swap in Southbend, Indiana, so I could pick it up there.
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As I continue to piece My 78 back together (RQB-2731), I am putting a notebook together with parts and alternates that I find that work. I am also trying to keep notes (if I can read my own handwriting) about any problems and modifications I have to do. A Frame off restoration is not an overnight project so this might take awhile.
A lot of this information and guidance comes from other Avanti owners, like yourself, Gunslinger, and my local Chicago chapter to name a few. You all have years of experience and I greatly appreciate the information and advice.
As they say, anyone can take a car apart. It's putting it back together that's the challenge. I also say that's the FUN of this hobby!
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I meant the AOAI Facebook page. Not forum. Get the two mixed up sometimes!
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Well I also talked to a couple of other mechanics and they all recommended I pack the bearings. I figured if the differential lube does get past the seals it will wash the grease out and either way I’m safe.
I bought the bearing/seals kit someone posted on Avanti Forum. The fit perfectly and was about $50 fir the whole set , both sides.
On a side note just put Turner brake kit on front.
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My information is that Russ Ware, (Studebaker Parts) bought all of Valerie Hanson Rubber stock and is getting the mold made for these parts.
I talked to him at 602-995-5311.
These are supposed to be available this year sometime
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I appreciate the information but How does the Gear Lube in the Differential get to the bearing if you have a inner seal?.
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I just pulled the axle and you are correct. This also supports my thought that the bearing is NOT lubricated by the Gear lube in the diff.
Unfortunately, on my driver side, the bearing is separating from the rollers. Since I am this far, and I am doing a frame off, I am going to replace all the seals and the bearings.
Confusing the matter is I have multiple part numbers for all the parts. Have you ordered and used the part numbers you supplied above? I have different (but similar) numbers from another member. But I have found out that there are a lot parts that will interchange.
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Ah, if a picture is worth a thousand words then a U Tube video is worth a million!. Just viewed a video on this and all became clear. The 'donut' I was referring to is the bearing collar and the inner seal is actually the outer race on the bearing. Yes you have to drill/cut and chisel this part off including the bottom race of the bearing. Let the fun begin!
I also think that the bearing is a sealed unit and NOT lubricated by the Gear oil. So I am glade I pulled them to check them
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I have a question on this also. I have a 78 RQB-2731 Dana 44
I was told the bearings need to be packed, but when I pulled the axles there was no grease in them. So I are the wondering if these bearing are packed or are lubricated by the Gear oil in the diff?
Is the 'black donut' to left of the bearing in the above picture, the rear seal or is there a pressed in seal in the housing? While I did not fully pull the axle, the bearing looked like it would slide off, after toward this inner seal after it was slid off.
Both of my bearings were floating on the shaft but The bearing on the drivers side of my car was separating so I will have to replace it. Are the above numbers good for the 78?
I had gotten the following numbers which do come up on a google search.
Inner: National 34419
Bearing: Timken U360L
Outer seal had 2 numbers: Chicago Rawhide, 2 lips, 15142 and 1 Lips 15141.. do not know what this the 'Lips mean or which I have.
It looked to me that the Outer seals were pressed into the Brake backing plate. Again on my car one was loose the other intact
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Yes I am scrapping all the paint off with razor blades. Some area come off almost in sheets but in some area it nicks but I figured those could be fixed with a little Bondo or Fiberglass filler. I had been warned by a couple of paint shops NOT to use a chemical stripper. I will review what you have linked.
Thanks for the input.
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Great Job! You are giving me inspiration.
Last July I towed a 78 home in a similar condition. I have the body off, (lifted off by myself using come-alongs hung from ceiling rafters) have completely sandblasted and repaired the frame. I painted the frame and all metal parts with KBS rust coating and then top coated them. I am currently starting to put it back together. I have also replaced the hog-troughs with the 1 piece units from Olympus. Even though they were galvanized, I still used the KBS rust preventatives on them.
I have been scrapping the old paint off the body, usually when I am scratching my head off some other issue. Even though I have painted other vehicles before, I haven't decided if I am going to try this one. I have never worked on a fiberglass body, so I don't know all the ins and outs.
1 day at a time, And every day I learn something new about the Avanti.
I really appreciate the advice I have been getting from this forum and the members of the Chicago chapter.
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I also have the Nardi Wheel in my 78. I hear it was a popular option.
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Thanks for the reply. Probably correct about not using rotor face and since full range of camber is 1/2 turn of pin. and can be set later. Just would hate to have to swap the the rear pin 180 degrees later.
But should I use the wheel hub housing (the King pin goes into), to get the Castor Close? It should be easier to turn with no weight on it.
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I am surprised that there have been no replies to this post. Am I way off base on what I am trying to do?
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Rebuilding the whole front end on a 78. I know I cannot do a full front end alignment until the car is completely together and I have the weight on it. But as I reassemble the frame and control arms I would like to get it close. Probably cannot do much with Camber until weight is on but I would think I should be able to get the Castor pretty close. Or does anybody have a trick to pre-load the front end to get Camber Close? I would hate to have to unbolt the top arm to flip the back pin 180 degrees after body is back on.
My question is what do I use as a reference for the Castor? Can I use the Hub sleeve the King pin goes into or is there a better place to reference? Also when I do go to set the Camber, do I use the hub face that the backing plate connects to or do I use the Rotor face?
Thanks
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Thanks for the replies. I think I am convinced that I don't need matching numbers. I have been getting some good numbers on Crate Gen III engines.
My goal is still reliability over power but if can get both, why not?
Hopefully starting to put frame back together next week. Control Arms have new bushings, they are powder coated and I have new springs. Just need to get frame back from sandblaster and then KBS coat it.
Probably be a year before I need the engine. Might as well wait until then as the new engine will have a warranty!
Great information again.
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This has probably been discussed before but I could not find anything.
I am doing a frame off restoration of a 1978. It has the original, but tired engine. I have the build sheet and engine number matches. It is a 350.
I have asked this question of some of the members in the Chicago chapter but I wanted to get a broader consensus.
How important is it to have matching numbers on an Avanti II? I am waffling on having the engine rebuilt or putting in a crate engine. Cost is pretty much the same.
Do you think the car will have a greater value with the original engine or will not matter? I am trying to keep the car as original as possible with as few modifications as needed.
Your opinion is appreciated.
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Some great information. Anybody know about Illinois with antique plates?.
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Just ordered both from Avanti Parts and Restorations.
thanks
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Dash Pad
in Avanti Parts
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I used the SI dash and had very few problems and I think it look great!
While I was at it I am replacing all the 'wood-grain' overlays, dash and center consoles with a Brushed Aluminum. A lot of tedious work but I think they look great with the black gauges.
On a side note: I need a new latch mechanism for the glove box. the springs broke internally. I do not need a exact duplicate but would like a locking latch.
Anybody have a source for a replacement? I am not against doing a little modification