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R2W55

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Posts posted by R2W55

  1. I tried to install a windshield this weekend on a 78. I followed all the advice given in previous posts.  End result I cracked the windshield!

    I had the rubber on the glass with 3M bedding compound.  I had the stainless installed and taped down.  I marked the center on the gun-sight both on glass and body. I marked the top center of the glass and frame.  I had the rope installed and 3 other helpers. I added 3M bedding to the window frame.

    Everything was going good.  glass was centered, rope was pulling out and rubber was sitting onto the inside flange. The problem was the rubber, on the sides (A Pillar) was rotating and pulling off the glass.  As we used plastic putty knives and pushed and tried to roll the rubber back I guess we pushed a little too hard.  POP.

    Any ideas why it would not sit over the flange?  Sorry, no pictures as after it cracked I, i pulled all back out.  ( I think there may have been a few bad words).

    Could the it have been the vinyl wrapped around pillar was too thick?  Dan Booth had mentioned to add fiberglass fillers to the A-Pillars but I didn't understand what he meant.

    I am trying to find a windshield (in the Chicago area to avoid shipping) to try it again.  I don't know if I can find a auto window installer in the area that would know how to do it any better.

    Anybody have any suggestions as to what  I did wrong? things to change before attempting again?

  2. Thanks Brad. I am embarrassed that I had to ask!  After posting I found the old rubber and yes, it slid in the extrusion. After I compared the profile of it and the  new piece, I saw my error. 
    what is more frustrating is that I ordered a rubber kit for a 78, from one of the major vendors and I got this piece. I’ll check out the other options you listed 
    More cost and more time lost.!

    thanks for responding Brad

  3. i have the same channel but the rubber piece I received in my 'Rubber Kit' will not fit into the channel.  per the pictures it would appear that it sits on top of the channel. There are 6 holes in both the channel and the rubber but only 5 of them line up!  If I am correct then there is a hollow space between the metal channel and the Rubber?

    unfortunately this is one area a forgot to take a lot of pictures when disassembling! It's been a few years since I disassembled it.

    I am assuming that when installing on the body the order is: Butyl Rubber caulk, Rain Gutter, Metal Channel, Rubber?? There was a note I put on one of the channel that said 1/4 foam. I figured this was between the rain gutter and the metal channel?

    Is the metal channel then exposed to the outside of body above the Door? should this painted the same color as the body or would black like rubber be acceptable?

    Do I need to add any chalking or gasketing between the Metal Channel and the Rubber?

    Any help here would be appreciated.IMG_3133.thumb.jpg.c86b0325eedb7b3918a3df5336e140d8.jpgIMG_3136.thumb.jpg.f83f2215f370a527b29bcf3bf08e7762.jpg

     

  4. Need a little help here. Still waiting on my car to get back from painters (2nd time) and I am buffing the trim. Seems I am missing one of these. It is the joiner between the trim on the front of the door opening to the drip rail above the door. It might be the same as the joiner on the inside console trim but I don’t have the car here to compare.
    Does anybody have one? Yes I know of Nostolgic and Meyers but thought I would try here 1st. Thanks

    drip corner.jpg

  5. Thank you.  Just needed it confirmed before trying to buff or polish.  There is a LOT of stainless trim to buff out and polish!

    Unfortunately there are some deep scratches in the chrome.  Not going to re-chrome but will try 0000 steel wool and hopefully the shine will hide (detract) the scratches!

  6. I am in the process of buffing all the stainless trim pieces and then came to the front vent window assembly.

    I have the assembly out and I have removed the actual vent window. 

    Is the channel around the actual glass stainless?  looks to be.

    Is the assembly that the framed glass, stainless or Chrome plated.  I think it is Chrome plated.

    Also, anybody know where I can get the 1/8" flat head rivets to hold the front weather strip in?

  7. The holes are much larger than the screws.  Might be the paint around the hinges and the large compression/star washers, but I would of thought if you loosened them all at the same time, the weight of the door would have broken that.

    If you remove 1 screw all the way out, you will see the amount of play.

    I would suggest that before you try moving anything, mark a scribe line where the hinges are currently on the door

  8. Avanti Magazine Issue 163, Summer/Fall 2013 had a great article describing how to align doors and windows.

    I was lucky enough to get a copy of this edition form a fellow club member.  I do not know if Robert Johnstone's website has any articles on it but you might check.

    good luck

  9. Where is the switch that controls the backup lights in a 78?  I thought it would be in the shifter housing but after taking that apart, no switch only the indicator light.

    Is it connected on the neutral safety switch on the column?  I don't see it.

  10. Actually I scrapped most of the glue off with a razor blade, same as I scrapped off all the paint off the outside of the car.  All it need then was a light sanding except near the trunk lip where there was a lot of excess bondo.

    The carpet is 1 piece, not cut out for the tire well.  So I am trying to decide if I keep it one piece and not glued down to access the spare, or cut out the circle and and sew on edging.

    I ordered the carpet from a site on ebay

      https://www.ebay.com/usr/benher58?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

    They also had a full carpet set ($260) which I bought and and again was very high quality but was for a 63/64 and needed a little modification for the 78.  Even included the door pieces and alternate pieces for AC or no AC..

    I am also modifying the latch to accept both a trunk cable and an electric solenoid.  I have most of the mechanics down (you have to separate the cable actuator from the solenoid) and the springs are giving me some concern.. If anyone is interested I'll post some pictures when I get it all figured out.

  11. Great article and information.

    I ordered a trunk carpet for my 78 from a Internet ad for $70 with shipping.  While the carpet was excellent and it it fit perfectly it was only the floor piece.

    As I am doing a full restoration and the car is a 78 Avanti II and I am not too concerned about full authenticity as I would if it was 63 or 64.

    I decided to remove all the glue and sand the sides.  I can see why they added the carpet as there was a lot of unsanded 'bondo' areas.

    I am painting the trunk a matching color of the car.  I think it looks better than all the carpet pieces.

     

  12. Jim,

    I bought one of the Mustang ones and it is VERY close. I will have to notch the top of the glove box hole (only the fiberglass, not the padding) to accept the ridge.

    I will also have to drill new holes on the flanges as the pony ones are too far out.  The catch will also have to be moved a little.

    The key part of the cylinder is very close to the original so I can slide the 'chrome' piece on the end over it will fill the padding hole very nice.

    I haven't actually done the mods yet but they look fairly straight forward.

    What is really nice about the mustang part is it is new works like silk.  I'll re-post after the mods are doneIMG_2606.thumb.jpg.83acabd4a6241bccdaf6aa2d8e0e4072.jpg

  13. Talking it over with the guys in my Chicago chapter, they agree.  What concerns we is that it looks like the metal plate was a 'wedge' shape.  I am assuming this was to give the proper angle to the pedal, for the  accelerator rod.  I think I will have mock this up with the new pedal to make sure I am not putting pre-pressure on the accelerator assembly.

    A few people have said mount to the floor with a hinge.  But since the base is under the carpet, the carpet would raise and add pressure to the movement of the pedal.

  14. Thank you for getting back to me.  What you stated and showed is what I would have expected but as you can see in the pictures I've attached,  the old pedal has a piece of rusted out steel and the floor board does not have any holes.  I also looked under the car and do not see any indication that holes had been 'filled'.

    I don't know if you can see it but the bottom metal has a lip like it was sitting on a triangular piece. There is considerable staining in this area probably from the rusting but this is why I thought the pedal had been epoxied to the floor.

    Any other thoughts?

    IMG_2513a.thumb.jpg.b6ecebb7a97b7b050584a1ee30064921.jpg

    IMG_2511a.jpg

    IMG_2512a.jpg

  15. I bought the Brushed aluminum from Menards (or Home Depot) as the bottom kick plate for doors. I should also mention I am doing the interior in Black so the Brushed neckel really jumps out.

    I made cardboard templates from the existing Wood overlays, or what was left of them. I made sure the templates were correct before I very , very slowly cut and filed the metal to the correct shape. one of the harder parts was bending the instrument panel in the correct place and angle.  you only get 1 chance!

    I would add some pictures of the instrument panel but I have it boxed up right now until I get ready for it.

    I have included the temperature console and the air conditional panels.  The slight curl on the AC panel was a challenge.

    If you have a mill it would be easier as all I have is a drill press, hand shears and files.

    Good luck

     

    IMG_2509.jpg

    IMG_2510.jpg

  16. Does anybody have a source for a replacement glove box latch for a 78?  the internal springs broke on mine.  I've tried replacing springs but nothing seems to work right.

    I doesn't need it to be exact but I would like it to lock.  I am not against doing a little modifications also

     

  17. Does anyone know how the accelerator pedal on a 78 attaches to the body?

    On the restoration I'm doing the bottom of the pedal was completely rusted away. I bought a new pedal from Studebaker International but it is only rubber and does not have any 'hinge' at the bottom.  There are no holes in the floor so I am thinking the pedal had a hinge screwed to the bottom and was epoxied to the floor. Thoughts?

     

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