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Posts posted by R2W55

  1. thanks everybody for comments.  I have since found out that this control valve will not work without modifications because of the attachment of the Pittman arm.

    The car is a just completed frame off restoration where all front end parts were replaced including the kingpin bearings and all bushing, springs and shocks.  the tire are brand new and balanced.  I have checked the steering column RAG joint and it is in good shape. I did rebuild the control valve with the kit available from SI.. The excessive slop is when I am driving but the rest of the ride is smooth with no shimmy or drift.  Actually the rest of the ride is phenominal

    I like IndyJimW suggestion and will see if the slop shows up there.  I have checked the steering play down to the steering box and all seemed good.

  2. My 78 has extremely sloppy steering.  I have checked the Bellcrank bushings, the tie rods, the Rag joint and tightened the Steering box.  My last option i think is the steering valve.

    I have found a part, I think is a direct replacement, CARDONE 28-6652.  It looks exactly the same, has BENDIX stamped on it and the the fitting sizes are 7/16-28 (1), 1/2-20 (2), 5/8-20 (1),  It not listed as a replacement for an Avanti (no surprise there) but is listed for various Ford and Mercury 1966- 67 cars.

    It is a rebuilt part.

    Has anyone used this part and have any reviews?

    cardone 28-6652.jpg

  3. I am in the final leg of my 78, body off restoration.  I have all of the interior pieces including the floor carpet and the trunk carpet.  I even have some of the cardboard backers. I also have all the old nuts and bolts as I replaced everything but those are going to metal scrapper.

    I can't guarantee that all the pieces are there as some disintegrated and some got ripped uninstalling. But I used them as the templates for my new interior. 

    If anybody wants them, they can have them but they either have to pick up in the Chicago area or pay shipping. Otherwise I will discard them

    OR I will be in South Bend for the October show/swap, but really don't want to keep them that long

  4. Thanks for sharing.  I think I know what my problem was.  Since I am doing the interior myself, I did not leave enough material on the inside of the post for the rubber to sit down on and it was trying to push the rubber back off.  I had glued the vinyl on the door side of the post and pulled it tight around the window flange.

    I am removing the material and will now glue it on BOTH side of the flange.  Or maybe only glue it on the inside.

    Anybody have any comments about NOT wrapping it around the flange.

  5. I tried to install a windshield this weekend on a 78. I followed all the advice given in previous posts.  End result I cracked the windshield!

    I had the rubber on the glass with 3M bedding compound.  I had the stainless installed and taped down.  I marked the center on the gun-sight both on glass and body. I marked the top center of the glass and frame.  I had the rope installed and 3 other helpers. I added 3M bedding to the window frame.

    Everything was going good.  glass was centered, rope was pulling out and rubber was sitting onto the inside flange. The problem was the rubber, on the sides (A Pillar) was rotating and pulling off the glass.  As we used plastic putty knives and pushed and tried to roll the rubber back I guess we pushed a little too hard.  POP.

    Any ideas why it would not sit over the flange?  Sorry, no pictures as after it cracked I, i pulled all back out.  ( I think there may have been a few bad words).

    Could the it have been the vinyl wrapped around pillar was too thick?  Dan Booth had mentioned to add fiberglass fillers to the A-Pillars but I didn't understand what he meant.

    I am trying to find a windshield (in the Chicago area to avoid shipping) to try it again.  I don't know if I can find a auto window installer in the area that would know how to do it any better.

    Anybody have any suggestions as to what  I did wrong? things to change before attempting again?

  6. Thanks Brad. I am embarrassed that I had to ask!  After posting I found the old rubber and yes, it slid in the extrusion. After I compared the profile of it and the  new piece, I saw my error. 
    what is more frustrating is that I ordered a rubber kit for a 78, from one of the major vendors and I got this piece. I’ll check out the other options you listed 
    More cost and more time lost.!

    thanks for responding Brad

  7. i have the same channel but the rubber piece I received in my 'Rubber Kit' will not fit into the channel.  per the pictures it would appear that it sits on top of the channel. There are 6 holes in both the channel and the rubber but only 5 of them line up!  If I am correct then there is a hollow space between the metal channel and the Rubber?

    unfortunately this is one area a forgot to take a lot of pictures when disassembling! It's been a few years since I disassembled it.

    I am assuming that when installing on the body the order is: Butyl Rubber caulk, Rain Gutter, Metal Channel, Rubber?? There was a note I put on one of the channel that said 1/4 foam. I figured this was between the rain gutter and the metal channel?

    Is the metal channel then exposed to the outside of body above the Door? should this painted the same color as the body or would black like rubber be acceptable?

    Do I need to add any chalking or gasketing between the Metal Channel and the Rubber?

    Any help here would be appreciated.IMG_3133.thumb.jpg.c86b0325eedb7b3918a3df5336e140d8.jpgIMG_3136.thumb.jpg.f83f2215f370a527b29bcf3bf08e7762.jpg


  8. Need a little help here. Still waiting on my car to get back from painters (2nd time) and I am buffing the trim. Seems I am missing one of these. It is the joiner between the trim on the front of the door opening to the drip rail above the door. It might be the same as the joiner on the inside console trim but I don’t have the car here to compare.
    Does anybody have one? Yes I know of Nostolgic and Meyers but thought I would try here 1st. Thanks

    drip corner.jpg

  9. Thank you.  Just needed it confirmed before trying to buff or polish.  There is a LOT of stainless trim to buff out and polish!

    Unfortunately there are some deep scratches in the chrome.  Not going to re-chrome but will try 0000 steel wool and hopefully the shine will hide (detract) the scratches!

  10. I am in the process of buffing all the stainless trim pieces and then came to the front vent window assembly.

    I have the assembly out and I have removed the actual vent window. 

    Is the channel around the actual glass stainless?  looks to be.

    Is the assembly that the framed glass, stainless or Chrome plated.  I think it is Chrome plated.

    Also, anybody know where I can get the 1/8" flat head rivets to hold the front weather strip in?

  11. The holes are much larger than the screws.  Might be the paint around the hinges and the large compression/star washers, but I would of thought if you loosened them all at the same time, the weight of the door would have broken that.

    If you remove 1 screw all the way out, you will see the amount of play.

    I would suggest that before you try moving anything, mark a scribe line where the hinges are currently on the door

  12. Avanti Magazine Issue 163, Summer/Fall 2013 had a great article describing how to align doors and windows.

    I was lucky enough to get a copy of this edition form a fellow club member.  I do not know if Robert Johnstone's website has any articles on it but you might check.

    good luck

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