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Posts posted by Rob Dudley
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With that many electrical problems I would start with looking for a ground problem. Run a jumper directly to the dash from the battery negative post.
To test the turn signals you can jump the two terminals on the flasher just to switch the signal lights on. You can then check at the sockets for power and ground.
Start with checking for a good ground everywhere first then go from there.
Rob
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Check the dimmer switch. If you have power into it use a jumper to one of the other 2 wires in the plug. If the lights come on it is the switch.
Rob
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Thanks for the solution. This is on my beater Avanti so I am not overly concerned with it but I like trying new fixes.
Rob
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The heads are bonded into the fiberglass on my '63. Be careful not to break them. I am driving around without a door because I did break them.
Rob
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I agree with the oil. The old grease dries up and the needle doesn't swing properly. I converted one to modern internals a couple years ago and the process is on Bob Johnsons tech site that can be accessed through the resources tab on the home page. This eliminates the sending unit.
Rob
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I just removed mine because it was stuck in the same position when I got the car. I removed it completely since I had opened the exhaust to check.
Rob
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horsepower rating?
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Since he used the car in Europe I would say False. It was in kilometers.
Rob
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My '64 Cruiser had this problem and it turned out the front calipers were so dirty they were nearly seized. The pads were good and it had new lines but upon further investigation the calipers just weren't functioning well. It may have been due to a lack of use as the car sat a lot.
Rob
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False. the '64 lark was the same, the '63 was different
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I own the rebuilt car that was his. It came with information about him and lots of documentation. The official cause of the accident was listed as brake failure. He was known to work on his own cars and had a notable collection at the time of his death. He and his wife were both killed. He was a Harmonica player and a TV show host.
Rob
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not round
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This looks like a decent Avanti with a couple desirable options. It is very difficult to give a value based on a non-running status and unknown history of it earlier in it's life. It will need a complete restoration to make it a show car. Probably the best thing is to put it on ebay as is or to get it running and useable which could be costly. It does appear to be a very good starting point for a nice car.
Rob
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I remember reading that the R3's had the upper control arm mount recessed into the mounting towers. Was that just the Bonneville
cars?
Rob
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I received my production order today and the engine number is listed as RS H 36. The final assembly date is August 14, 1963.
Rob
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I have a 1964 Avanti R4959 that has engine number RH36. This is the original engine, and the number matches the build sheet. Some of the references I am finding say that this engine number format was first used on August 20, 1963 for Avanti’s built on or after that date. My build sheet is stamped August 20 1963, so is that the official “built date”? The factory inspection sheets are dated 8/12/1963 body and 8/14/1963 chassis. The car was invoiced 8/23/1963 showing R Q 4370 Avanti in P 6431 Avanti White. Body number is RQ 3873 which also matches the build sheet. Would inspections have normally started before the engine number was stamped? This is a round headlight car.
I just bought R4935 which has engine RS H 31. I have ordered the production order to see if it coincides with the car. The car was rebuilt as a round headlight car after a serious accident. It appears from the paperwork I got with the car that it was originally an executive car and was sold in April of '64.
Rob
COURTESY LIGHTS, GLOVE LIGHTS TRUNK LIGHTS
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted
They're all common to the same fuse so maybe corrosion under the fuse or a loose wire such as the spade connector to the fuse block.
Rob