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plwindish

Window Switches in 89's

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After getting my newly acquired 89 out of winter storage last week, I noticed the right front (passenger) window is not currently operating. I'm starting with the switch and looking at it last night, I'm wondering if the switch does come out of the console from the top side. I've seen rocker switches like those before that have a couple of plastic ears on the sides that keep the switch secured. As I haven't worked on the 89's, how do the window switches get replaced?

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Should be same as '88 - pry off the console wood. It has spring clips on each (4) corner. Easiest way is to move shift lever to neutral. You can start at one end and reach your fingers in the shift-slot and pull up.

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I got the console top pried loose to lift and see why the switch wasn't coming out. All four switches were covered with at least 3/8" of black silicone that went all the way around the four switches. I had to loosen the silicone, then pull it off the bank of switches to separate the right front window switch. I'll get another switch within the next couple days and see if that was the problem with the window.

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OR - you could unplug the wiring from the 'good' switch and plug-in the 'bad' switch harness to the known 'good' switch and see what happens.

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I picked up a window switch from NAPA last night. The old and new switches are built the same, but on the old switch, one corner male lug was shortened down to a 1/8", just long enough to solder a jumper wire running from it to the lug diagonally opposite of the shortened lug and soldered there as well. After taking some of the silicone off the RR window switch, it has that done as well. I tried plugging in the connector for the RF window to the working RR switch and it did nothing, so I'm starting to wonder if the problem is with the motor or wiring between the connector and the motor.

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When you try the switch, does the voltage gauge show a drop? If so, you have power getting to the motor. That might mean there's a problem with the motor. If the gauge shows no change power may not be getting to the motor.

It looks like the next thing is to get a test light to make sure power is getting to the switch and out of the switch. If the switch is not getting power, the problem is with the wiring. If power is going out of the switch, the problem is between there and the motor, if not the motor itself.

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I haven't put a voltmeter on it yet, but will when I get some time to.

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Thanks for the tip Gunny. With the car running tonight, I ran all the switches both directions and all four showed a drop from 14 to around 12 and a little lower when activated. It looks like I need to be checking out the motor.

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