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Hello Friends: I notice that I am getting a leak in passenger compartment of coolant NOT WHEN DRIVING BUT WHEN I TURN ENGINE OFF
It appears to be coming up by the capillary tube near the control valve (I have a radio in the way, need to remove it)
WHAT IS THE INNER DIAMETER OF THE HEATER TUBING...On person suggested putting in Ball Valves at the fire wall.
THANK YOU.. WILL START WORK TOMORROW WEDS 10/16/2019. Hope to take pictures to post

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A leaking temp control valve will be fairly obvious once you remove the radio....A leaking heater core will show up as coolant leaking out of the housing containing the core.

In a Studebaker Avanti , the heater core housing isn't all that hard to remove.

On Studebaker Avantis, the inlet and outlet tubes on the heater core and on the temp control valve are all 3/4".

It  leaks after you shut the engine down due to a normal rise in heat & pressure.

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IF it is the Temp Control Valve.................Do you need the heater? My car is never driven in the Winter, so when my Heater Control Valve began to leak, I removed it and installed a Ball Valve under the dash in the same location as the temp control valve. Should I have the need for the heater (Doubtful), I can easily reach up under the dash and adjust the ball valve for the temp I need.


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Why do you need a heater? Just replace the nipples in the engine, where the heater hoses attach, with pipe plugs and then reattach the heater hoses to them. The result is no more leaks in the heater system and no more unwanted heat in an Avanti. Everything will look the same.

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I am a fixer.  I like the original equipment working.  We dismanteled the entire system in 45 minutes. Core was pressure tested and cleaned.. no leaks

New control valve ordered from Meyers and core mailed in.  New hoses obtained.  Tested heater motor, works fine.  Should be back together next week

Thanks everyone...…...…………...

JLBKY - I looked for 3/4 inch t handle ball valves at Ace hardware and could not find

I am unclear how the balvalve adjusts the temperature

there are 2 hoses into the control valve one in and one out so would you not need 2 ball valves?




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Studequest, I too had Jon Meyer rebuild my control valve on my 64 R2. He is very happy with original stuff, doesn't like replacement stuff that isn't OEM.


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From studequest above: "I am a fixer.  I like the original equipment working." Yes, yes, yes, studequest. I'm also a fixer. Over the years, I found that if I don't fix the little issues as they arise, my collector car eventually becomes a rundown piece of crap (at least in my eyes). All a matter of personal preference, of course. John

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  • Jolly-John 
  • Pulled out control valve and sent to John Meyers for Exchange  (we got the entire system out in 45 minutes)
  • Heater core cleaned and pressure tested.. No Leaks Tested Motor
  • Replaced hoses though not needed
  • Waiting to reassemble.. (Fiberglass did break on the baffle with the vent pull.. We will make a shroud out of aluminum and reassemble
  • Thanks everybody!!
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