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R2W55

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Posts posted by R2W55


  1. Actually I scrapped most of the glue off with a razor blade, same as I scrapped off all the paint off the outside of the car.  All it need then was a light sanding except near the trunk lip where there was a lot of excess bondo.

    The carpet is 1 piece, not cut out for the tire well.  So I am trying to decide if I keep it one piece and not glued down to access the spare, or cut out the circle and and sew on edging.

    I ordered the carpet from a site on ebay

      https://www.ebay.com/usr/benher58?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

    They also had a full carpet set ($260) which I bought and and again was very high quality but was for a 63/64 and needed a little modification for the 78.  Even included the door pieces and alternate pieces for AC or no AC..

    I am also modifying the latch to accept both a trunk cable and an electric solenoid.  I have most of the mechanics down (you have to separate the cable actuator from the solenoid) and the springs are giving me some concern.. If anyone is interested I'll post some pictures when I get it all figured out.


  2. Great article and information.

    I ordered a trunk carpet for my 78 from a Internet ad for $70 with shipping.  While the carpet was excellent and it it fit perfectly it was only the floor piece.

    As I am doing a full restoration and the car is a 78 Avanti II and I am not too concerned about full authenticity as I would if it was 63 or 64.

    I decided to remove all the glue and sand the sides.  I can see why they added the carpet as there was a lot of unsanded 'bondo' areas.

    I am painting the trunk a matching color of the car.  I think it looks better than all the carpet pieces.

     


  3. Jim,

    I bought one of the Mustang ones and it is VERY close. I will have to notch the top of the glove box hole (only the fiberglass, not the padding) to accept the ridge.

    I will also have to drill new holes on the flanges as the pony ones are too far out.  The catch will also have to be moved a little.

    The key part of the cylinder is very close to the original so I can slide the 'chrome' piece on the end over it will fill the padding hole very nice.

    I haven't actually done the mods yet but they look fairly straight forward.

    What is really nice about the mustang part is it is new works like silk.  I'll re-post after the mods are doneIMG_2606.thumb.jpg.83acabd4a6241bccdaf6aa2d8e0e4072.jpg


  4. Talking it over with the guys in my Chicago chapter, they agree.  What concerns we is that it looks like the metal plate was a 'wedge' shape.  I am assuming this was to give the proper angle to the pedal, for the  accelerator rod.  I think I will have mock this up with the new pedal to make sure I am not putting pre-pressure on the accelerator assembly.

    A few people have said mount to the floor with a hinge.  But since the base is under the carpet, the carpet would raise and add pressure to the movement of the pedal.


  5. Thank you for getting back to me.  What you stated and showed is what I would have expected but as you can see in the pictures I've attached,  the old pedal has a piece of rusted out steel and the floor board does not have any holes.  I also looked under the car and do not see any indication that holes had been 'filled'.

    I don't know if you can see it but the bottom metal has a lip like it was sitting on a triangular piece. There is considerable staining in this area probably from the rusting but this is why I thought the pedal had been epoxied to the floor.

    Any other thoughts?

    IMG_2513a.thumb.jpg.b6ecebb7a97b7b050584a1ee30064921.jpg

    IMG_2511a.jpg

    IMG_2512a.jpg


  6. I bought the Brushed aluminum from Menards (or Home Depot) as the bottom kick plate for doors. I should also mention I am doing the interior in Black so the Brushed neckel really jumps out.

    I made cardboard templates from the existing Wood overlays, or what was left of them. I made sure the templates were correct before I very , very slowly cut and filed the metal to the correct shape. one of the harder parts was bending the instrument panel in the correct place and angle.  you only get 1 chance!

    I would add some pictures of the instrument panel but I have it boxed up right now until I get ready for it.

    I have included the temperature console and the air conditional panels.  The slight curl on the AC panel was a challenge.

    If you have a mill it would be easier as all I have is a drill press, hand shears and files.

    Good luck

     

    IMG_2509.jpg

    IMG_2510.jpg


  7. Does anybody have a source for a replacement glove box latch for a 78?  the internal springs broke on mine.  I've tried replacing springs but nothing seems to work right.

    I doesn't need it to be exact but I would like it to lock.  I am not against doing a little modifications also

     


  8. Does anyone know how the accelerator pedal on a 78 attaches to the body?

    On the restoration I'm doing the bottom of the pedal was completely rusted away. I bought a new pedal from Studebaker International but it is only rubber and does not have any 'hinge' at the bottom.  There are no holes in the floor so I am thinking the pedal had a hinge screwed to the bottom and was epoxied to the floor. Thoughts?

     


  9. I used the SI dash and had very few problems and I think it look great!

    While I was at it I am replacing all the 'wood-grain' overlays, dash and center consoles with a Brushed Aluminum. A lot of tedious work but I think they look great with the black gauges.

    On a side note: I need a new latch mechanism for the glove box.  the springs broke internally.  I do not need a exact duplicate but would like a locking latch.

    Anybody have a source for a replacement?  I am not against doing a little modification


  10. I am now putting my 78 back together! But something does not seem right!

    I replaced the Front Coils springs with Moog CC653, variable rate springs. I had read a couple of articles on Avanti Websites sites that said these were a good replacement. The Moog CC655 were the recommended but are no longer available.

    I replaced all the bushings, rebuilt the kingpins and reassembled the upper and lower control arms (no engine or body yet) using a chain around the frame and floor jack (actually a truckers strap) to compress the spring and reassemble the king pins.  All went well. As expected, with no weight on the frame, the upper control arm bumper was sitting on the frame.

    I have put the engine and transmission back on the frame. I expected at this point to see some compression of the spring.  NONE!  With a jack stand under the lower control arm, and pushing down on the frame, I still do not get any compression.  I again put the floor jack under the lower control arm and wrapped a chain around it and the frame.  I can get compression this way. The upper/lower control arms do move up and down as expected.

    Does this sound normal?  Is the body going to add that much more weight? Did I order the wrong springs?


  11. I wasn't sure of years that would work so thank you for the information. I have the dash out of the car.  Yes it was pain, but not too bad.  Yes I have tagged all the wiring. I still have to trace out some of the 'extra' switches.

    I am probably about a year away from putting the interior back in but I like to line up all the materials ahead of time.

    I just finished the chassis, rebuilding the all the bushings and kingpins, steering, differential etc.... Just about ready to put Tie rods and steering box back in.   Also put Turner brakes on front but still keeping the Drum brakes on back.

    I just thought if someone had a old dash sitting around I might try to recover it. As you can see mine is not too bad but i don't want to put it back in that way.  If I recover it I 'might have to eliminate the pleating but I don't want to.  Just want to 'play' around to see if  can do it!

    DASH.JPG

    IMG_2112.JPG


  12. Does anyone have an old Avanti Dash available?  I want to try my hand at re-upholstering one but don't want to destroy my current one.

    I am aware of the reproduction one available from Nostalgic Motors.

     My car is a 1978 so it would have to be compatible.  I assume anything before 1980 would work but don't know for sure.

    My current dash, while probably repairable, is very brittle and cracked which I know is a common problem.

    I would like to pay at little as possible as this is an experiment and I have never tried this before. I have viewed a few UTUBE videos and it doesn't look impossible just very tedious.

    If I am successful, I would try to document this for other owners to see if they would like to try it.

    I am in the Chicago area or I am going to be at the May 4th Studebaker swap in Southbend, Indiana, so I could pick it up there.


  13. As I continue to piece My 78 back together (RQB-2731), I am putting a notebook together with parts and alternates that I find that work.  I am also trying to keep notes (if I can read my own handwriting) about any problems and modifications I have to do.  A Frame off restoration is not an overnight project so this might take awhile.

    A lot of this information and guidance comes from other Avanti owners, like yourself, Gunslinger, and my local Chicago chapter to name a few. You all have years of experience and I greatly appreciate the information and advice. 

    As they say, anyone can take a car apart.  It's putting it back together that's the challenge.  I also say that's the FUN of this hobby!


  14. Well I also talked to a couple of other mechanics and they all recommended I pack the bearings. I figured if the differential lube does get past the seals it will wash the grease out and either way I’m safe. 

    I bought the bearing/seals kit someone posted on Avanti Forum.  The fit perfectly and was about $50 fir the whole set , both sides.  

    On a side note just put Turner brake kit on front. 


  15. I just pulled the axle and you are correct.  This also supports my thought that the bearing is NOT lubricated by the Gear lube in the diff.

    Unfortunately, on my driver side, the bearing  is separating from the rollers. Since I am this far, and  I am doing a frame off, I am going to replace all the seals and the bearings.

    Confusing the matter is I have multiple part numbers for all the parts.  Have you ordered and used the part numbers you supplied above? I have different (but similar) numbers from another member.  But I have found out that there are a lot parts that will interchange.

     


  16. Ah, if a picture is worth a thousand words then a U Tube video is worth a million!.  Just viewed a video on this and all became clear.  The 'donut' I was referring to is the bearing collar and the inner seal is actually the outer race on the bearing.  Yes you have to drill/cut and chisel this part off including the bottom race of the bearing.  Let the fun begin!

    I also think that the bearing is a sealed unit and NOT lubricated by the Gear oil.  So I am glade I pulled them to check them


  17. I have a question on this also. I have a 78 RQB-2731 Dana 44

    I was told the bearings need to be packed, but when I pulled the axles there was no grease in them.  So I are the wondering if these bearing are packed or are lubricated by the Gear oil in the diff?

    Is the 'black donut' to left of the bearing in the above picture,  the rear seal or is there a pressed in seal in the housing? While I did not fully pull the axle, the bearing looked like it would slide off, after toward this  inner seal after it was slid off.

    Both of my bearings were floating on the shaft but The bearing on the drivers side of my car was separating so I will have to replace it.  Are the above numbers good for the 78? 

    I had gotten the following numbers which do come up on a google search.

    Inner: National 34419

    Bearing: Timken U360L

    Outer seal had 2 numbers: Chicago Rawhide, 2 lips, 15142 and 1 Lips 15141..  do not know what this the 'Lips mean or which I have.

    It looked to me that the Outer seals were pressed into the Brake backing plate.  Again on my car one was loose the other intact


  18. Yes I am scrapping all the paint off with razor blades. Some area come off almost in sheets but in some area it nicks but I figured those could be fixed with a little Bondo or Fiberglass filler.  I had been warned by a couple of paint shops NOT to use a chemical stripper. I will review what you have linked.

    Thanks for the input. 

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