Power Window Problem

[wdaly]

This is sorta different. The switch & motor actually work! The motor runs and makes a 'clunking' noise. The window mechanism attached to the motor doesn't budge. In the past I have replaced the entire system with a rebuilt unit and all was fine. I have always felt that elongated mounting holes, particularly at the Pivot (3 bolts), cause the assembly to work erratically or not at all (NO MOTOR NOISE). I'm thinking for some reason that the motor is no longer internally connected to the 'crank'. Any ideas?

Bill

[IndyJimW]

I'm in the middle of rebuilding mine. The motor gear meshs with the regulator gear, either something is stuck or the gears are stripped. Are the 3 bolts mounting the motor to the regulator assembly tight? The motor/regulator is easy to get to and comes out as a assembly that can be test operated on the bench. Are you talking about the adjustment holes in the door for the pivot? Can you post some pictures?

Jim Wood

[Michael]

Hi,

I replaced the motor on my 89 2 months ago. Picture of the motor I removed is attached here. The plastic gear that ran against the linear worm gear was cracked. The motor ran but the window did not move. When I put the new motor in I did clean and relube all the guides and tracks. I also cleaned and lube sprayed silicone fluid on the spring coil. The spring was really corroded. The window works gear now. Good luck.........Mike

[wdaly]

I'm in the middle of rebuilding mine. The motor gear meshs with the regulator gear, either something is stuck or the gears are stripped. Are the 3 bolts mounting the motor to the regulator assembly tight? The motor/regulator is easy to get to and comes out as a assembly that can be test operated on the bench. Are you talking about the adjustment holes in the door for the pivot? Can you post some pictures?

Jim Wood

Sorry no pictures - would only show the door without the interior attached anyway. Yep, something is not 'meshing' and I don't feel like taking it all apart again. It's going to be a HOT Summer as I damaged the AC evap core when replacing the heater core last year!

[IndyJimW]

I have the Evap core out of my '87 if you need one. Looks like a Monte Carlo Evap core to me. About $100 bucks new.

[ernier]

Sounds like the gear or the rollers inside the gear are bad. I had a new one get chewed up very quickly because the 3 bolts on the triangular pivot were long enough to catch the arms and cause them to bind consequently causing the gear to loose a couple of teeth. I used the shortest bolts I could find that still grabbed all the threads in the captured nut. There's very little clearance.

The gears are available new from Cardone I use my 76 Chrysler New Yorker as an application, same gear.

[wdaly]

Sounds like the gear or the rollers inside the gear are bad. I had a new one get chewed up very quickly because the 3 bolts on the triangular pivot were long enough to catch the arms and cause them to bind consequently causing the gear to loose a couple of teeth. I used the shortest bolts I could find that still grabbed all the threads in the captured nut. There's very little clearance.

The gears are available new from Cardone I use my 76 Chrysler New Yorker as an application, same gear.

Thanks for the info and I know what you mean about those 'pivot' bolts. The problem unit is not that old and a re-built from one of our vendors (complete with K-Car motor attached). I'm seriously thinking of trying to switch over to "manual" operation, but I remember Jon Myers (in a mag article) saying it wasn't a good idea mechanically - I'm in the process of finding that article now.

[ernier]

I had issues with both driver and passenger windows after replacing motor an gears didn't matter that they were fairly new both had to be repaired and in both cases the electric motor was fine.

The clunking is definitely a gear or regulator issue. My "new" gear lost 4 teeth within a month of replacement because the regulator was binding on those screws. The driver's side would work intermittantly. No motor noise or windo motion but I could tell by the voltmeter juice was geting to the motor and the motor was trying to move. Took it apart and everything worked on the bench with motor attached to the regulator. Teeth were fine, gear internals were fine. Put it back together and it would go up and not come down.

Finally I put the two motors side by side and saw that the center pin that the gear slides onto was at a slight angle. I had pictures but deleted them. You can't tell when the gear is seated all the way down but by pulling it out enough to enhance the view you could see that the gear was not flush with the housing. Once bolted up it would bind.

I also noticed that some of the rebuilt motors were oval rather than flat on the sides. This would also cause a bind and could cause a gear to break prematurely. Good luck, it took me a couple of months to sort the windows out completely.

If you run into swtch problems I've got a neat fix for that.

Ernie

Thanks for the info and I know what you mean about those 'pivot' bolts. The problem unit is not that old and a re-built from one of our vendors (complete with K-Car motor attached). I'm seriously thinking of trying to switch over to "manual" operation, but I remember Jon Myers (in a mag article) saying it wasn't a good idea mechanically - I'm in the process of finding that article now.