Inspection of `85 results

[Kennie B.]

Well, I not only have driven the car, but just got back from looking underneath and in general getting grubby.

In the week since I drove the car, the seller has repaired the passenger window, supposedly the motor and drive were gummy and bound up. It now works.

As for the front end. The wheel bearing are on the loose side, you can even see how the brake pads are burnishing the rotors slightly, it does not look like the calipers or mounts are dragging on the rotors. The calipers are later GM, when did Avanti change over, before using the GM chassis or while thay still had the Lark based frame? There is a little slop in the tie rod ends but the center pivot seems good. The center pivot though raises a question. Of the 4 bolts it mounts to, are the forward 2 studs in the frame or do bolts come up from below into a thread in the frame? There is the appearance that the casting is loose as there is a burnished surface around the sides of the casting near the front and none near the back. The good thing is, while there really isn't a sign of notable oil leakage, the whole area is coated with the obvious increamental accumulation of 55k mi. It also looks as if the owners were not stingy with the grease. I wan't huge gobs falling off, just nice accumulation that some times has been wiped back over the years. Inner control arm rubber bushing are pretty much worn out but not needing immediate replacement. Tie rod ends seem sound. I had thought that there was some tightness in the steering when I drove it, I think perhaps somebody thought they could tighten up the play with the adjustment at the steering box and over tightened not knowing what they were working with.

The hog troughs are a mixed bag. The work looks solid but the left one was repaired, the right looks original. There are 4 drain holes of varying diameters, basically about finger diameter. There is some rust inside but not too grotesque. Both sides have rather large rivet heads along the rocker panel, visible only once you have the car on a lift. Long term, I think it will be fine if I open up some "hatches" from the inside, clean up the loose rust and use rust encasulator.

The frame itself looks to be solid, I had thought the car was from the Carolinas, close but Georgia actually. All the same, if the car was exposed to snow and salt, it would have been before the car shipped out of South Bend. Even the cross brace under the spare tire is solid.

Exhaust behind the catalyst is new, aluminized steel. Where the pipe ahead of the cat passes over the frame, there is barely any clearance, looks like the motor mounts are sagging slightly.

Tires are a mis-match as rears are new, fronts have a few years on them. Am I the only one who rotates tires any more?

All of that is actually small potatoes, the biggie is that the trunk doesn't open. The solonoid is trying but the latch won't cooperrate and release the trunk lid. Unfortunately, there isn't the access hatch available to open the trunk with a screwdriver. Does this mean that I have to remove the gastank and cut a hole in the bulkhead to the trunk or through the hatshelf? Is there another way?

Again, thanks for all the advise.

Ken

Edited November 17, 2011 by Kennie B.

[Avanti83]

Ken

Some thoughts

The GM calipers would suggest a brake upgrade to Turner or Steeltec, a good thing.

It sounds like there is a suspension rebuild in the future. Parts for a complete job are about $1000 from SI.

The center pivot, Bell-Crank, is bolted through the frame with sleeves to keep the upper and lower section from compressing from the bolts.

The steering adjustment in on the side of the steering box away from the frame although you may need to drill an access hole to get to it.

The hog troughs don't seem like a big issue and you can access them by drilling 3" holes through the floor boards. I have a post on the SDC forum about how to do it. I'll send you a link if you wish.

If you remove the gas tank firewall you will have room above the tank to drill a hole large enough to get a light and long rod into to open it.

Hope this helps.

[Kennie B.]

I take it you have been here-done this.

How much room is there above the top of the gas tank to the underside of the shelf? As for the hole, are we talking a 2" hole saw etc? Please keep in mind, I'm not a Gastroenterologist, I'm not used to using multi jointed devices with optical capabilities. What could be the odds I'll still be pulling the gastank to cut a bigger hole? If so, how much work to remove the tank?

Thanks,

Ken

[Avanti83]

<br>I take it you have been here-done this.<br><br>How much room is there above the top of the gas tank to the underside of the shelf?  As for the hole, are we talking a 2" hole saw etc?  Please keep in mind, I'm not a Gastroenterologist, I'm not used to using multi jointed devices with optical capabilities.  What could be the odds I'll still be pulling the gastank to cut a bigger hole?  If so, how much work to remove the tank?<br><br>Thanks,<br><br>Ken<br>

<br><br><br><br>Ken<br><br><br>My 74 is setting with the interior out but the gas tank in place. I'll take a shot of the area tomorrow and post it.<br><br>Gas tank removal looks straight forward from the interior but the problem becomes the underneath issues. The fuel exit is in the bottom of the tank and must be removed to pull the tank. <br><br>The tank needs to be completely emptied by removing the plug in the fuel line under the passengers door then getting above the rear axle to the short rubber line and removing it. You will still get a fuel shower if not careful. There is a 90 degree fitting that screws into the tank that must be removed and then the tank lifted out from above.<br><br><p>That doesn't sound difficult until you try to reach up above the axle with tools. Room is tight with little room for leverage and almost impossible to reach from jack stands. A lift is the most reasonable answer.</p><p>In the previous post I quoted $1000 for a total front suspension kit. That is a complete kit. If you don't need it all the cost would be less.<br></p><br>Bob Edited November 18, 2011 by Avanti83

[Kennie B.]

Bob,

I know I read in the past some of the foibles of a tank R & R, just couldn't remember till you jogged my mind. In short, avoid pulling it, just short of cutting a hole in the trunk lid. I would definately appreciate pics.

From what I saw, the metal parts in the front suspension will probably be okay but rubber has an annoying habit of decaying on a calander basis. Especially when not used frequently.

Thanks,

Ken

[Avanti83]

Ken

Here are the shots of the Avanti I promised.

What is missing from the picture is the matrix of vent piping that attaches to the stud you see attached on the top of the tank. If you can't work around it, which I think you can, it can be moved by removing it from the two studs. I think you can get an 1 1/2" or so hole saw in there. I'd make two holes, one for the light and one for the bar.

This is a shot of the trunk side which is carpeted so you will need to know that if you decide to drill into the rear.

This is a shot of the fuel tank area above the rear axle.

If you need more photos, the car is on the lift so just let me know.

Bob

[Kennie B.]

Bob,

So the 90 deg fitting I see directly above the differential housing with the braided hose, that is the fitting I need to remove to get the tank out?

Don't get me wrong, I'm thinking 2 holes drilled through the bulkhead is plan A, I just like to keep at least a B and when possible a C available. I don't know that B is such a horrible thing after all, since the fuel line is probably due to replace anyway.

Ken

[Avanti83]

Bob,

So the 90 deg fitting I see directly above the differential housing with the braided hose, that is the fitting I need to remove to get the tank out?

Don't get me wrong, I'm thinking 2 holes drilled through the bulkhead is plan A, I just like to keep at least a B and when possible a C available. I don't know that B is such a horrible thing after all, since the fuel line is probably due to replace anyway.

Ken

Ken

If you have access to a hoist as I do, pulling the tank is not as bad as when I tried to pull the tank on my 83 while it was on floor jacks. It was almost impossible to do as I couldn't get my arms in any position to turn the fitting out.

That was one of the reasons I bought a hoist to save this old body from those maneuvers on a 30 Deg F floor.

Here's a closer shot of the fitting and yes, changing the hose is a good idea. The braided hose on mine was run all the way from the tank to outside the frame where it will become 3/8" steel tubing all the way to the engine.

Good luck, Bob

[IndyJimW]

All of that is actually small potatoes, the biggie is that the trunk doesn't open. The solonoid is trying but the latch won't cooperrate and release the trunk lid. Unfortunately, there isn't the access hatch available to open the trunk with a screwdriver. Does this mean that I have to remove the gastank and cut a hole in the bulkhead to the trunk or through the hatshelf? Is there another way?

My '87 has a wire pull cable in case the solenoid doesnt work. Look behind the bumper on the drivers side.

Good luck,

Jim Wood