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Posts posted by PackardV8

  1. Yes, even though DC comics did not introduce us to Bizarro until the 1960s, Studebaker Enginering actually was doing bizarro work in the early-1950s.  The Studebaker front suspension was designed in the pre-power-steering era.  To make it easier to parallel park, there is negative caster in the kingpins.  The result is more darty than today's high-positive-caster designs.

    A front end technician, given the Shop Manual, and asked to put  get it back to zero or even some positive caster if the adjustment will allow, can help it some.  Getting toe-in correct for radials also can help.

    But no, there shouldn't be any particular effort with the wheels at rest or at slow speeds.  Something's not right there.  Again, the Shop Manual PS valve adjustment instructions can help.

    jack vines

  2. No data to prove it either way, but you asked for opinions and I'd say it makes no difference in resale.  The 350" SBC, other than those in certain rare Corvettes, are considered 'belly-button' engines and one block is the same as another.

    Also, you'll have a noticeable power and drivablilty increase if the carburetor and distributor are changed to performance models and compression increased to 9.5.  FWIW, we can usually provide a precision-machined long block for less than the big box catalog store craters.  If you have a few months this winter, we can quote a custom build of your core engine for less than crate cost.

    jack vines

  3. 2 minutes ago, studegary said:

    To add to Gunslinger's good answer - The rake was designed into the Avanti.  It wasn't added.  When it became the Avanti II, spacers were added and fillers were put into the front fender wells to reduce/eliminate the rake.  Also, all four tires on all Studebaker Avantis were of the same size.

    For true, when the Altman brothers took over, they felt the rake was a polarizing feature; some loved it, some hated it.  They felt it would appeal to a broader group of buyers if it looked less extreme.  Thus, they gave up one of the defining styling cues.

    jack vines

  4. Quote

    The drivers seat on my '78 is positioned lean back further than comfortable 

    We're all built differently and want to sit differently when driving.  Every Avanti I've driven, the seatback was too upright and I wanted to lean back more.  I've modified my seats with shims under the front or a completely new seat with a power seat back adjustment.

    jack vines

  5. I've never seen an Avanti with them.

    But then, some just like wire wheels, which weren't readily available in '63.  Those wire wheel covers are close enough to the Borrani offered on later cars and to the Dayton wires dealer added to several others, so there's a minority who would spend the money to get something different than the plain steel wheel covers.

    jack vines

  6. Tubeless radial tires exert far more pressure on the bead area of the wheel than did tube-type bias tires. 

    All manufacturers redesigned their wheels, making them of heavier gauge steel.

    So yes, an original Studebaker wheel, equipped with wider-than-optimum tubeless radials has been known to fail.  "But I like the look of the wider tires.  Those 195s just look too skinny."  If going 205, 215, 225, go with stronger wheels.

    The Avanti wheels, being 5" wide, will last longer and take more use/abuse than the 4.5" sedan wheels.

    In the bad old days, wrecking yards were awash with Ford and Mopar wheels with the same 4.5" bolt circle as Studebaker.  That's what most chose to substitute.  A 6" x 15' is about perfect for the Avanti.   Some of the 7" and wider wheels, not so much.

    FWIW, fifty years ago, I got a rude surprise, choosing some 6" wheels stamped FoMoCo, had them sandblasted and painted, only to discover they were Mercury, which had a 4.75" bolt circle.

    jack vines

  7. The outer pin is both threaded and eccentric.  Threaded moves fore and aft, adjusting caster.  The eccentric has only a half-turn effect on camber.  If more camber is needed, the inner pin is also eccentric and can be flipped 180-degrees to change camber.

    FWIW, it always comes down to turning in as much positive caster as the adjustment will allow and then setting camber.

    jack vines

    Obsolete Engineering Division

    of Mager Engine


  8. 1 hour ago, Avanti83 said:

    A $11.95/pt mix of hydrocarbons and up to 20% Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) diluted in up to 15 gallons of gasoline, call me a skeptic at a minimum. I can believe that Techron Fuel Injector Cleaner can help as it has a couple of strong aromatic solvents in it but rubbing alcohol? Meh!!

    X2 on no snake oils.  A friend who was a petroleum chemist for forty years told me, "Those guys buy all their feedstocks from us, put it in small cans and charge way too much.  If it had any value, we could put it in all our fuels and oils for a fraction of a cent instead of $12 a can."

    jack vines

    Obsolete Engineering Division 

    of Mager Engine


  9. Quote

    I talked with Dan Booth a couple of months ago . . . and Avantis need everything new every 30K.

    I have the greatest respect for Dan Booth and his knowledge of Avanti, but that statement is totally bullshit.   I'd want clarification of what, how and why.

    There is nothing in the Studebaker front end which would wear out in two years of daily driving.   (Of course, the Studebaker front suspension requires greasing every 1,000 miles, which few did when it was new and still fewer are willing to do today.) 

    If the Avanti front suspension gets scheduled lubrication, the hard parts last a looooong time.  The first part to perish are the upper inner A-arm rubber bushings.  These days that happens more from years than miles.

    jack vines, who's been working on Stude front ends as long as most anyone.

  10. While I don't have the exact specs in hand, the Stude yoke is dirt-common, used by dozens of other makes over the forty-year-production life of the B-W automatic.  I'd think any tranny rebuild shop would have several in a bucket somewhere there (yours is most likely among them.)

    jack vines

  11. Yes, good advice from 64avanti; a R&P conversion can and and has been done to Studes and I've done a few myself.

    No, it's not easy and done without proper understanding of steering geometry and strength of materials required, can make it drive worse and even be dangerous.

    Maybe, since we don't know of a bolt-in kit, do a lot of reading before ripping out what's there.


    So Saturday noon i blew a power steering hose in downtown Mt. Dora....This required a complete change of plan and we missed the second half of the ACOF party that evening.. bummer... We got the car back to Melrose  Fl. on a friends rollback trailer.  (End of chapter one)

    FWIW, I've emergency-driven a few Studes with inoperative PS.  Why did yours have to get a ride on a rollback?

    jack vines

  12. FWIW, the Studebaker V8 is in external dimension a big block.  Unfortunately, in internal displacement, it's a very small block.  Since it's so huge and heavy, literally any post-WWII OHV8 can and has been swapped into the Avanti engine compartment.  I've seen BBCs, Oldsmobile, Cadillac, BBM, hemi Mopar in there.

    Just be aware, installing anything more than the SBC is a total waste.  The Avanti is inherently traction-limited and without major rear suspension work, big block torque just produces tire smoke.

    jack vines

  13. Quote

    There is a loud cycling droning noise . . . sounds like exhaust.

    Does your exhaust have a crossover H-pipe between the two sides?  This often quiets the drone.


     a  light slapping noise above 55-60.  The slapping is like there is something stuck on a tire. . . disappear  if I push in the clutch or put it in neutral.

    OK, what isn't moving with the clutch depressed/trans in neutral that was moving in gear?  Clutch disc, pressure plate and transmission input shaft.  Those are unlikely sound sources.

    Engine speed is more likely.  Driving above where the slapping appears, note RPM, go to neutral, maintain same engine RPM.  Does the sound continue?  If so, let the engine speed drop to idle.  Does the sound go away?  If so, look at belts, fan clutch (if so equipped) water pump bearing, power steering pump; everything which rotates at engine speed.

    jack vines


  14. Unfortunately, the Studebaker V8 has big block external dimensions and very small block dimensions inside.  That's fortunate for engine swappers, since the engine compartment was sized for the Studebaker V8, literally anything will and has been swapped in there.   Naturally, there will be differences of exhaust and oil pan, but the void is there.

    And yes, anyone swapping for anything other than a built 400" SBC is wasting money just to be different, but his car, his money, his decision.

    jack vines

  15. Quote

    None of the parts dealers have any gears available. If I️ can find suitable ring and pinion will have work done by tranny shop as I️ don’t have expertise .

    Then you weren't asking in the most obvious places.  The Dana 44 is the most common axle design ever.  It was used by millions of Ford, Mopar, GM, Studebaker, Jaguar, Rootes, Nissan, Jeep, IH, Packard and a dozen others.  Literally every aftermarket gear manufacturer and every 4WD shop will have the gears, bearings and seals available.

    There were two carriers, one for ratios from 2.56 - 3.73 and the other for ratios from 3.90 to 6.33.  You'll most likely be using the first and choosing from 2.56, 2.88, 3.07, 3.31, 3.54 or 3.73.

    Also, the Dana 44 is still thick on the ground in the Studebaker community.  Put out a WTB over on SDC, listing the desired ratio, with TwinTraction, and you'll most likely get several offers to sell you a complete axle for a reasonable price.  You'll most likely have to change the brakes to Avanti and weld on traction bar brackets, but that's easily done.  You might get really lucky and find an Avanti axle with the ratios you want.  They're out there; just ask around.

    jack vines

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