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Everything posted by PackardV8

  1. You don't specify what needs fixing. If it's just replacing the motor, that's one thing. The bad news is the Avanti window glass is too long and heavy for the motor and mechanism used. The weight soon destroys the motor and when the motor is repaired a couple of times, the forces begin to rack and crack the door inner structure. Then the linkage gets worn and damaged. jack vines
  2. The most common fail is the tachometer. The sending units almost always fail and are difficult to find. The good news is the current production S-W tachs don't require a sending unit and will bolt right in. The easiest fix is to buy a complete set of new production S-Ws and replace all the gauges. jack vines
  3. Since Stewart-Warner was the OEM supplier, the Avanti guages are the most common design ever. While those with the red pointers are not always available, one can always find an S-W gauge which will bolt in. jack vines
  4. When the in-gear carburetor curb idle speed of an automatic transmission is properly adjusted, the additional load when an AC compressor kicks in will often stall the engine. The throttle kicker has an adjustable stop which allows it to be set to maintain the same idle on or off AC. Back when I could not find an Avanti part, I fabricated one from a GM u-pick unit. They're pretty much universal. jack vines
  5. Live and learn, indeed. I had been under the impression only the first few '63s got stuck with that POS 3-speed. Now we learn they also used it in some '64s. So the 4-speed was always an extra cost option? jack vines
  6. Old query, but FWIW, my Avanti had Daytons with severe surface rust. I had them sandblasted and powdercoated gold. Since the car was gold, it looked right. For other body colors, there are choices of chrome, silver, and others. The process was inexpensive, successful and has lasted well. jack vines
  7. We've seen both here, so it would be interesting to know how many round headlight cars were converted to square, "to look like the latest style" and how many square headlight cars were converted to round "to get the original, classic look." jack vines, who prefers the original recipe, but owns the Barris custom with quad round headlights.
  8. The flywheel ring gear on a V8 tends to come to a stop in one of four positions and most of the wear takes place there. It was common practice to remove the ring gear, flip it over and reposition it 45-degrees to the original position; all new wearing surfaces. jack vines
  9. "Stand up" depends entirely on how often you lay down the rubber. Even a strong R3 does not make 300 lbs/ft of torque low down on the RPM. An adult-street-driven R3/World-ClassT5 combination would last forever. A season of drag strip use with side-stepping the clutch above 3,000 and flat-shifting might kill it. jack vines
  10. Yes, No, Maybe. How it's been stored and in the humidity of MN, makes estimating worth a real crapshoot. Pulling a number out of the etheric without an examination assumes too much. FWIW, I was given a similar NOS Packard 320" fitted block and pistons which was from CA and was still usable as was. A customer sent us a fitted Champion block which had been stored in Alabama and nothing in it was usable. The rings had rusted to the cylinders and corroded into the pistons. The block had to be bored .060" over to clean up the rust pits. Suggestion; wipe down a cylinder with an oily rag, knock one piston out and show the prospective purchaser the condition of the cylinder, rings and pistons. jack vines
  11. So yes, Chevrolet V8s of that vintage were known for flattening the cam lobes. And yes, the cam can be replaced with the block in the frame, but as mentioned, there are tradeoffs. jack vines
  12. Well, there's no way around needing a bell housing, a flywheel, a pressure plate, a clutch disc, a pilot bearing and a hydraulic clutch kit. How much you pay for them, whether you use OEM or aftermarket is up to you. jack vines
  13. At a guess, the intent was to lower the car and the air shocks were to stiffen the suspension to avoid bottoming. Lowering the suspension also requires lengthening the radius rods. And yes, I'd return it to original configuration and fit new spring eye, sway bar and radius rod eye bushings and the best gas shocks I could buy. jack vines
  14. Over the years, I've driven Avanti II with the original SBC 327". 350", 400" and 305". Today, there have been so many engine swaps, it's anyone's guess which engine and transmission is in a given car. jack vines
  15. If one is going to all that work, suggest adding a direct reading O2 meter to confirm the jetting is optimum for your use, altitude and temperature. Of course, on an R2, it can never be optimum. The jetting which would give the best MPG at cruise would be terminally lean at WOT under boost. The jetting which will give max power and be safe under boost will be too rich at cruise. Knowing where it is now is the first step to getting it right. Also, confirm the correct intake manifold gaskets are being used. The R2 gaskets restrict the exhaust heat crossover. Personally, I block the passage completely with thin stainless steel plates. jack vines
  16. Yes, the Saginaw is a better steering box by most every measure. jack vines
  17. Since your body is off the frame, consider spraying the entire underside and inside with LizardSkin Spray-on Heat and Noise Insulation, or the OZ equivalent. The Avanti is incredibly noisy and hot inside by today's standards, so anything done to keep heat and noise out is a worthwhile investment. https://lizardskin.com jack vines
  18. Close, so old stogy instead of new cigar. The OD was the Hone-O-Drive. But yes, because of the X-member, there is no overdrive which can be added to the rear of the B-W tranny. FWIW, if one changes the rear axle ratio to a 3.07 and gets used to shifting the B-W through all three gears, it works OK. Jack Vines
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