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PackardV8

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Posts posted by PackardV8

  1. Yes, good advice from 64avanti; a R&P conversion can and and has been done to Studes and I've done a few myself.

    No, it's not easy and done without proper understanding of steering geometry and strength of materials required, can make it drive worse and even be dangerous.

    Maybe, since we don't know of a bolt-in kit, do a lot of reading before ripping out what's there.

    Quote

    So Saturday noon i blew a power steering hose in downtown Mt. Dora....This required a complete change of plan and we missed the second half of the ACOF party that evening.. bummer... We got the car back to Melrose  Fl. on a friends rollback trailer.  (End of chapter one)

    FWIW, I've emergency-driven a few Studes with inoperative PS.  Why did yours have to get a ride on a rollback?

    jack vines

  2. FWIW, the Studebaker V8 is in external dimension a big block.  Unfortunately, in internal displacement, it's a very small block.  Since it's so huge and heavy, literally any post-WWII OHV8 can and has been swapped into the Avanti engine compartment.  I've seen BBCs, Oldsmobile, Cadillac, BBM, hemi Mopar in there.

    Just be aware, installing anything more than the SBC is a total waste.  The Avanti is inherently traction-limited and without major rear suspension work, big block torque just produces tire smoke.

    jack vines

  3. Quote

    There is a loud cycling droning noise . . . sounds like exhaust.

    Does your exhaust have a crossover H-pipe between the two sides?  This often quiets the drone.

    Quote

     a  light slapping noise above 55-60.  The slapping is like there is something stuck on a tire. . . disappear  if I push in the clutch or put it in neutral.

    OK, what isn't moving with the clutch depressed/trans in neutral that was moving in gear?  Clutch disc, pressure plate and transmission input shaft.  Those are unlikely sound sources.

    Engine speed is more likely.  Driving above where the slapping appears, note RPM, go to neutral, maintain same engine RPM.  Does the sound continue?  If so, let the engine speed drop to idle.  Does the sound go away?  If so, look at belts, fan clutch (if so equipped) water pump bearing, power steering pump; everything which rotates at engine speed.

    jack vines

     

  4. Unfortunately, the Studebaker V8 has big block external dimensions and very small block dimensions inside.  That's fortunate for engine swappers, since the engine compartment was sized for the Studebaker V8, literally anything will and has been swapped in there.   Naturally, there will be differences of exhaust and oil pan, but the void is there.

    And yes, anyone swapping for anything other than a built 400" SBC is wasting money just to be different, but his car, his money, his decision.

    jack vines

  5. Quote

    None of the parts dealers have any gears available. If I️ can find suitable ring and pinion will have work done by tranny shop as I️ don’t have expertise .

    Then you weren't asking in the most obvious places.  The Dana 44 is the most common axle design ever.  It was used by millions of Ford, Mopar, GM, Studebaker, Jaguar, Rootes, Nissan, Jeep, IH, Packard and a dozen others.  Literally every aftermarket gear manufacturer and every 4WD shop will have the gears, bearings and seals available.

    There were two carriers, one for ratios from 2.56 - 3.73 and the other for ratios from 3.90 to 6.33.  You'll most likely be using the first and choosing from 2.56, 2.88, 3.07, 3.31, 3.54 or 3.73.

    Also, the Dana 44 is still thick on the ground in the Studebaker community.  Put out a WTB over on SDC, listing the desired ratio, with TwinTraction, and you'll most likely get several offers to sell you a complete axle for a reasonable price.  You'll most likely have to change the brakes to Avanti and weld on traction bar brackets, but that's easily done.  You might get really lucky and find an Avanti axle with the ratios you want.  They're out there; just ask around.

    jack vines

  6. Wish that Stude horsepower numbers were greater than published, however, based upon the 1/4-mile MPH speeds from contemporary magazine road tests, the R2 289 hp rating was pretty accurate.

    Ted Harbit's R2 in the Stewed Tomato benefits from his more than fifty years of building racing Studebakers.   Bottom line - it's possible to build a blueprinted Stude R2 V8 which will qualify for Factory Stock racing and which exceeds the factory rating, albiet at considerable expense.

    FWIW, the R3 engine specifications called for the heads to be hand ported.  Several here can confirm most R3 heads were not ported to match the prints.  So yes, Paxton Products may have custom built a very few 400hp R3s, but most wouldn't top 335hp.

    Another FWIW, the Paxton racing supercharger had no warranty.  It produced more boost but had too much spring pressure to survive street use.  The racing lifespan was measured in hours.

    jack vines

  7. Do you like the original recipe raked stance or do you want the better performance and ease of maintenance of the SBC?  JMHO, but an Avanti is all about style.  None of them really perform or handle measured by present day standards.  If I wanted an SBC, I'd put one in a '63.  Round headlights and the rake make it unique.

    As to value, none of the garden variety R1s or Avanti II will be worth the big bucks, so there's really not much investment appreciation.  Go with what you like and what makes you happy when you look at it.

    jack vines

  8. And mostly for the AM radio reception.  Important in '63, but not so much today.

    FWIW, the interference would also make noise on the radio of the car next to an Avanti, occasionally causing their smiles to become frowns.

    jack vines

  9. Welcome to the Avanti forum.

    There is no absolute answer to your question.  If you have a good relationship with a body shop and can get a better than retail price, maybe.  Usually, the entire car can benefit from paint, the buyer may choose another color than refrigerator white, he may have the skills to do it himself or a body shop owes him a favor or he may be clueless as today's real world costs of paint and body work.

    One option is to rattle can spray paint the affected area so the contrast isn't so stark, then the photos on eBay will suggest an easy fix.  Set your minimum reserve and hope for the best.

     

    jack vines

  10. 40 minutes ago, Gunslinger said:
    Quote

    Any Avanti built on the Studebaler chassis is going to give you a stiff ride.  It's just the nature of the beast.

     Interestingly, I just drove a new near-$100,000 BMW and found it to ride significantly stiffer and have much less wheel travel than the Avanti.

    Also interesting, as most of my Studebaker suspension efforts over the past 50+ years have been toward improving handling; however, it wouldn't be that difficult to go softer.  Using 6-cyl front springs, fiberglass rear springs, gas shocks, forged 16" or 17" wheels, tall profile tires, seats from one's favorite luxury car and all new front suspension wear parts.

    But still, adding the parts cost, labor to have it all done, would be substantial.  Then the results are entirely subjective.  What would be wallowingly soft to one might be still too firm to our OP.

    jack vines

     

     

  11. At the IM, there were a couple of R2/AC installs where the alternator was driven by a short belt run off the second groove of the AC pulley.

    Anyone here tried that and is it an alternative to what you discussed above?

    jack vines

  12.  Since I often switch from a solid axle C-cab pickup to the Avanti, it seems to ride fine to me.

    FWIW, tires, wheels and seats affect perceived ride quality equally as much as springs and shocks.

    If one is not concerned with originality, switching to six-way adjustable power seats from a luxury car made a huge improvement in subjective ride comfort.  They were much softer, more supportive and allowed to get support under the thighs which long-legged drivers sometimes find lacking in the Stude OEM seats.  (Since there are so many different later Avanti II seats, I haven't sampled them all.)

    Lighter weight forged aluminum wheels noticeably reduce unsprung weight and improve the ride comfort.  A friend who's a bit of a CASO cheaped out when he saw the cost of forged wheels and bought a set of cast wheels which were actually heavier than the OEM steel wheels.  The extra weight plus the additional width noticeably increased the unsprung weight and worsened the ride.

    jack vines

  13. I'll be arriving at Saint Mary's late Monday night, unfortunately without my Avanti,  Looking forward to seeing you all there.  I do have tickets for the Avanti events.

    Also, need tickets for the SDC events at the Building 84 tour and the Proving Ground tour.  Those were sold out by the time I registered.  If anyone hears of anyone not being able to make it, grab the tickets for me; thanks in advance.

    jack vines

  14. Congrats on keeping up with the little stuff.  That makes for a much more pleasant ride and a better sell when that time comes.  FWIW, I'm always put off when a seller excuses a myriad of problems with "Easy fixes" or "Easy restoration"  If it's so easy, WTF didn't he do it?  Answer: It's not easy.  It's time-consuming if the the owner does the fixing and very expensive if a shop does the fixing.

    jack vines

  15. FWIW, Prestolite distributors, single or dual point, wear the advance weight bushings.  There are repair kits available, as millions of Mopars used the same basic distributor.

    Another FWIW, I've rebuilt and converted several to Pertronix and even better, the Mopar solid state trigger.  If you ever decide to go there, I've got them on the shelf for $300.

    jack vines

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