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Posts posted by PackardV8

  1. You don't specify what needs fixing.

    If it's just replacing the motor, that's one thing.

    The bad news is the Avanti window glass is too long and heavy for the motor and mechanism used.  The weight soon destroys the motor and when the motor is repaired a couple of times, the forces begin to rack and crack the door inner structure.  Then the linkage gets worn and damaged.

    jack vines

  2. 1 hour ago, Dunkin said:

    Thanks to all, the reason I asked some of the cars I have been looking at in my search have the chrome trim rings in bad shape, and some have gauges don't work.  

    The most common fail is the tachometer.  The sending units almost always fail and are difficult to find.  The good news is the current production S-W tachs don't require a sending unit and will bolt right in.

    The easiest fix is to buy a complete set of new production S-Ws and replace all the gauges.

    jack vines

  3. When the in-gear carburetor curb idle speed of an automatic transmission is properly adjusted, the additional load when an AC compressor kicks in will often stall the engine.  The throttle kicker has an adjustable stop which allows it to be set to maintain the same idle on or off AC.

    Back when I could not find an Avanti part, I fabricated one from a GM u-pick unit.  They're pretty much universal.

    jack vines



  4. Old query, but FWIW, my Avanti had Daytons with severe surface rust.  I had them sandblasted and powdercoated gold.  Since the car was gold, it looked right.  For other body colors, there are choices of chrome, silver, and others.  The process was inexpensive, successful and has lasted well.

    jack vines

  5. We've seen both here, so it would be interesting to know how many round headlight cars were converted to square, "to look like the latest style" and how many square headlight cars were converted to round "to get the original, classic look." 

    jack vines, who prefers the original recipe, but owns the Barris custom with quad round headlights.

  6. "Stand up" depends entirely on how often you lay down the rubber.  Even a strong R3 does not make 300 lbs/ft of torque low down on the RPM.  An adult-street-driven R3/World-ClassT5 combination would last forever.  A season of drag strip use with side-stepping the clutch above 3,000 and flat-shifting might kill it.

    jack vines

  7. On 5/18/2021 at 4:48 AM, 64studeavanti said:

    IMHO, it is easily worth twice the offer. After all, just a new set of pistons and rings cost more than that.

    Yes, No, Maybe. How it's been stored and in the humidity of MN, makes estimating worth a real crapshoot.  Pulling a number out of the etheric without an examination assumes too much.


    FWIW,  I was given a similar NOS Packard 320" fitted block and pistons which was from CA and was still usable as was.  A customer sent us a fitted Champion block which had been stored in Alabama and nothing in it was usable.  The rings had rusted to the cylinders and corroded into the pistons.  The block had to be bored .060" over to clean up the rust pits.

    Suggestion; wipe down a cylinder with an oily rag, knock one piston out and show the prospective purchaser the condition of the cylinder, rings and pistons.

    jack vines

  8. 55 minutes ago, Jerry1963 said:

    I am planning to install a new Tremec TKX 5 speed in my 63. I currently have a chevy 350 with a 350 turbo transmission. I have requested and received several conversion kit quotes, but all include high performance equipment and my conversion is for cruising and show. I don't need a scatter shield bellhousing, a $350 flywheel, a $400 clutch kit, or a $600 hydraulic clutch kit. If anyone has made this or a similar conversion I would appreciate any guidance.

    Thanks,  Jerry

    Well, there's no way around needing a bell housing, a flywheel, a pressure plate, a clutch disc, a pilot bearing and a hydraulic clutch kit.  How much you pay for them, whether you use OEM or aftermarket is up to you.

    jack vines

  9. At a guess, the intent was to lower the car and the air shocks were to stiffen the suspension to avoid bottoming.  Lowering the suspension also requires lengthening the radius rods.

    And yes, I'd return it to original configuration and fit new spring eye, sway bar and radius rod eye bushings and the best gas shocks I could buy.

    jack vines

  10. On 1/7/2021 at 12:12 PM, IndyJimW said:

    My 1987 Avanti Coupe uses the Monte Carlo chassis with the 305ci HO engine.

    I remember test driving a mid-70's Avanti with a 400ci small block and a 2bbl carb years ago.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

    Over the years, I've driven Avanti II with the original SBC 327". 350", 400" and 305".

    Today, there have been so many engine swaps, it's anyone's guess which engine and transmission is in a given car.

    jack vines

  11. If one is going to all that work, suggest adding a direct reading O2 meter to confirm the jetting is optimum for your use, altitude and temperature.

    Of course, on an R2, it can never be optimum.  The jetting which would give the best MPG at cruise would be terminally lean at WOT under boost.  The jetting which will give max power and be safe under boost will be too rich at cruise.  Knowing where it is now is the first step to getting it right.

    Also, confirm the correct intake manifold gaskets are being used.  The R2 gaskets restrict the exhaust heat crossover.  Personally, I block the passage completely with thin stainless steel plates.

    jack vines

  12. On 12/20/2020 at 8:13 AM, mfg said:

    This is an old post I just happened to notice.....Just adding my two cents that there was an overdrive unit which bolted to the back of the Avanti Powershift. (or any other Borg Warner cast iron case 'model 8' three speed automatic transmission)

    I believe it was called the 'Cone Overdrive' (an aftermarket unit) and it apparently worked quite well...I have no idea how many were sold, and probably would not work in an Avanti, as it was a bit bulky and would no doubt clash with the frame 'X' member!

    Close, so old stogy instead of new cigar.  The OD was the Hone-O-Drive.

    But yes, because of the X-member, there is no overdrive which can be added to the rear of the B-W tranny.

    FWIW, if one changes the rear axle ratio to a 3.07 and gets used to shifting the B-W through all three gears, it works OK.

    Jack Vines

  13. The block serial number should be from a '63 Lark.

    The chrome parts were available from SASCO as leftovers from R-series and Avanti production.

    The cylinder head castings were 1957 low compression heads, but who knows was was on production shipped to OZ in '63?

    The crankshaft should be the long snout, but again, dealing with export and bitsa, who knows?

    jack vines


  14. Congrats on solving two problems in one go.

    Now, it's time to do the same to the front firewall.  It's Swiss-cheese full of holes originally plugged with rubber grommets and bellows.  Sixty years later, most of those flimsy barriers are "perished" as you would say.  A day spent removing the carpet, re-sealing the firewall and then layering it with Dynamat will make for a great reduction in heat, noise and fumes.


    jack vines

  15. Do not believe most internet parts searches.  The Summit/Jegs/Rock Auto, et al, pay that cheap whore Google to put their listing at the top, regardless of whether they have ever stocked that part.  Then, when you click on it, the closest random collection of junk pops up.

    (Do I feel strongly about this?  Yes, as they waste hours of my time when I know exactly what I'm trying to buy, but they hijack my search.}

    jack vines


  16. 59 minutes ago, mfg said:

    I have a cast iron Stude V8 dual quad manifold in my pile of parts....Interestingly, it was custom made by a good welder using a ? twin four barrel cast top brazed onto a 'hogged out' Avanti 'R type manifold.....Twin AFB's are mounted on it ....I've never tried it in operation.

    That's a new one on me and one I'd never have considered attempting.  Close-up photo?

    jack vines

  17. On 11/2/2020 at 6:07 PM, Footer said:

     we must have had different eyesight back then.  Mike

    It's not just appearance.  Seat engineering has improved as much as every other area.  The OEM seats in my '63 were ahead-of-their-time buckets, but way out of date forty years later.  I installed a pair of heated leather six-way-power seats from a Japanese luxury car and they transformed the feel of the car.

    Through the inner ear, we feel the motion of the car.  Changing where the inner ear is positioned within the car changes how we perceive the ride and handling.  The OEM buckets are bolt upright and close to the steering wheel.  The replacement seats allow moving rearward, reclining slightly and downward; feels like a different car.

    jack vines

  18. On 7/5/2020 at 11:52 PM, 64Avanti said:

    Can you post a picture showing the "Casting Number."  Those heads have to be modified R2s.  The intake manifold clearly doesn't have R3 size ports.  We never had any finished R3 heads.  When we purchased the parts from Paxton the heads were long gone.


    Heads with casting number 1555479 are R3 or R4 heads.


    That hand-stamped number doesn't appear to be a casting number, which by definition is part of the molding process.  Only the person who did it can confirm, but since Studebaker never stamped anything "STU-V", insn't it likely as part of their rebuild of the engine, STU-V ground off the OEM casting number, modified the head and stamped their own identifier?

    jack vines

  19. Agree, buy the best car cosmetically and mechanically you can find.  Look for a A II without a sunroof.   The aftermarket sunroofs were a disaster; they leaked, delaminated and are expensive plague to get out.

    The SBC is the least expensive part of a good car.  We can build a strong, durable 383" or 400" for cheap.

    The 4-speed overdrive automatic is a real plus also.

    jack vines

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