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ken1007

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Posts posted by ken1007

  1. On 5/24/2021 at 1:22 PM, Swampboy said:

    Motor Window World repaired mine recently.  No broken parts, apparently just frayed cable/guides replacement and cleaned motor, $225.  Here are pictures that Jim S asked for in his other post.  Yep, it's a bear to get in and  out - removing the two screws that hold the motor onto the frame (not motor to gear hub) is the key.  Not necessary to remove motor, just slide it out of the way to clear bracket and window slot.

    20210504_171803.jpg

    20210504_171832.jpg

     

  2. On 5/24/2021 at 1:22 PM, Swampboy said:

    Motor Window World repaired mine recently.  No broken parts, apparently just frayed cable/guides replacement and cleaned motor, $225.  Here are pictures that Jim S asked for in his other post.  Yep, it's a bear to get in and  out - removing the two screws that hold the motor onto the frame (not motor to gear hub) is the key.  Not necessary to remove motor, just slide it out of the way to clear bracket and window slot.

    20210504_171803.jpg

    20210504_171832.jpg

     

  3. On 5/12/2021 at 12:05 PM, Jim S said:

    I hate to tell you, I just went through what you are going through with my 87.  I reached out to the far corners of the Avanti world, and there seems to be nothing out there to fix that regulator.  If you have any success, bravo and I hope you share it!  Good luck!

    So what do you do when you want to put the top down?  Ken

  4. Still having trouble with passenger side quarter panel window regulator repair.  It was rebuilt about 10 years ago by Window Motor World, but they are out of parts and can not now repair.  Have been told it uses 1988 Chrysler Chrysler convertible regulator, but can not find such a unit.  Motor is OK, cable and bakalite part are not.  Would like to get car back in operation, any ideas?  Ken, Deltaville Va  

  5. Window motor world has my 89 convertible failed passenger side quarter window and has asked if I know anyone has a motor or at least the black backlight top as shown in the photograph.  They believe it is from Renault but built in Germany.  Has anyone had this bakelite part manufacture?  Ken, Deltaville Va 

    Avanti part.jpg

  6. Two part question:  1.  What is the best way to get the the regulator/glass out of the car; driver side door?  2.  Several years ago I got the rear regulator out and  rebuilt,  re-builder  in Florida, does any one recall their name/contact information.  They did good work.  Ken, Deltaville, Va.   

    found paperwork on previous repair, it's Window Motor World, Palm Coast Fl........ Now can anyone tell me how to get it out?  Ken

  7. The right side rear window on the 89 convertible would not go up; came to a screeching stop about 1 inch from its bottom position. It sounds as if it is binding at some point, driver side works fine. Took rear side upholstery panel off but cold not see any broken or binding part. Plan on removing seat belt support which will expose more of the "track" and a wire that starts to pull upward but stops like something is binding. Is this motor failure? does anyone have a parts diagram and who might have the parts? I have window wiring diagram in an 89 owners manual but nothing about mechanical parts. Is it Chev Caprice? Would like to fix it before it is put away for winter. Ken Deltaville Va

    ADDED SUNDAY: Got to the motor; it's BOSCH 12V 130 821 097. Would like to find shop that can repair/replace to include mounting on window. It is believed to be same unit used on Chrysler Windsow, if that make any difference Ken, Deltaville, Va

  8. Roll up a bath tower and place it inside the vinyl window as you stow it. It will keep the vinyl from creasing. Try a white towel as some color dyes might transfer to the vinyl in hot weather. It's removable but might take some effort...just avoid using a towel with dyes.

    Top down at Show today, towel appeared to work, thanks.

  9. It's a new top - is it advisable to unzip the rear window when the top is lowered? How difficult is it to zip back in place and should that be done when the top is up, but not locked down? What do you convertible top folks usually do? The old top did not matter that much, but I would just as soon not crease the new window, but do not want to fight zipping it back up. Ken, Deltaville, Va

  10. Just got my 89 back from the shop with its new top; it looks fantastic. This topic has been on forum in past but I never got a clear answer as to what to do. Thought I would pass on what was done in this case for anyone interested in new top but not sure how to get it done. Brad Biz provided the point of contact for a "manufactured" top based on an original top. The alternative was to have one made by the installer which, my experience indicated, it would be far more costly. The top was delivered to a Norfolk, Va hot rod shop. In this case the cost was $750 for a stunning well fitted manufactured top and $750 for professional upholstery shop installation and $300 for oversight by the hot rod shop. So if you do it your self deduct $1050. Do not know how this compares with others who have gone thru this but if you need a top it is something to consider. Ken, Deltaville, Va

  11. It looks like a new top is called for on my 89; Has anyone found a supplier of a convertible top kit that will fit the 89? The top, itself, is in fine shape but the stitching around the rear window is separating, but it would appear that if they have to remove the top it would not cost much more to replace everything, especially if a kit is available. A convertible top company in Florida, Convertible Top Specialists, says it is doubtful that a kit is available. Ken, Deltaville, Va

  12. My 89's top is in good shape, but the rubber strips on the top of the doors is cracked and needs to replaced for both doors and both rear quarter windows. Are the strips available through Steel Products as well?

    Paul, you might tryConvertible Top Specialists in Florida. I was surprised that they knew as much as they did when I was looking for the 89 parts, one of their guys even knew who made some of the original 89 parts. Ken

  13. This 1989 Avanti was chosen to lead the antique and classic cars in the Irvington, Va July 4th parade of about 100 cars. Past parade leaders include a 1930 V-16 Cadillac, 1936 Mercedes 540K, 1958 Cadillac Eldorado, 1929 Merceces Roadster, 1939 Ford woody station wagon. Irvington, Va is a Chesapeake Bay community of many retirees from the east and south east parts of the country and has many outstanding antique and classic cars. The entire parade can be seen at Irvingtonparade2015.shutterfly.com. It's a big deal in a small Virginia community. Ken, Deltaville Va

    post-9327-0-14729200-1439226773_thumb.jpg

  14. Would like to hear from anyone who has replaced an 89 convertible top and also frame. Need weatherstripping for doors, windows and top also. Also seat and window motors rebuild or replacements. Any leads will be appreciated.

    Gordon

    Had the same issue in 2011; after extensive research found a Florida top place (convertible Top Specialists) that had both tops and window sweep. Search "window sweeps" on this forum for complete write up. SI has rubber, the door rubber is not exact, but it works well. Ken

  15. Better late than never. If you are still looking for weather stripping, search "window sweeps". You should see a post I made in 2011 after much searching. Dan Booth could have made the sweeps at about $250 but you need to send him the old sweeps. I found a place in Florida that had them for $35 but be forewarned the rubber on these is narrower than original and if you changed car color you could have a strip of the original color showing. Also, I bought 63 Avanti door weatherstrip from Studebaker International, it seals, but it is not correct. Studebaker Rubber Gaskets, 615 356 7510 has the correct weatherstrip. Ken, Deltaville Va

  16. Having owned both an R1 and R2 I offer up these observations notwithstanding the fact that owners can have different objectives:

    1. R2s are, for the most part, faster but, as mentioned, more cost to CORRECTLY maintain. This, my experience shows, is particularly the case for the supercharger and if you want to maintain a proper R2 carburetor. Both are expensive to repair (my R2 carb has been rebuilt twice and is still not 100%). I probably will give up on the carb as a Studebaker vendor is working on a bonnet that can be used on an Edelbrock.

    2. I have no interest in being the first car to get to the next stop light. But I try to keep cars original, with one exception, a newer hot rod Avanti road tested (TW magazine) capable of well in excess of 130 MPH. I've had it as high as 60.

    3. The absence of Power steering is an issue, at slow to no speed for either R1 or 2.

    4. Studebaskers, of which I have several, do not make for a good profit center, but an R2 4 speed will be more sought after thus more valuable.

    5. Compared to my newer Avanti, the handling of an R1 and R2 is equally poor

    6. With a few exceptions, Avanti parts for an R1 or 2 are about the same in terms of availability and cost; but are generally, more expensive than comparable Studebaker car parts.

    Having said all of this, I would go for the R2. Ken, Deltaville, Va

  17. I tend to watch this type show but filter out the scripted drama like i do for the endless, often insulting, ads. Recent Fantom shows point out:

    1. The danger of DIY restoration. (no surprise)

    2. There are those more interested in what they want than what they pay for it. (no surprise)

    3. I's good that the Avanti owner closed his "shop". (no surprise)

    4. Power steering choice (electric) is something to remember.

    5. Corvette rust can be worse than Avanti issue with hog troughs.

    6 Gun mounts on a cobra is questionable, in my view, but refer back to #2 above (no surprise)

    So learning two things in two hours may make it worth while. Ken, Deltaville Va

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