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ken1007

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Posts posted by ken1007

  1. Completed frame off last week on 63 Avanti R2, new or rebuilt just about everything. Engine runs hot with new 3 core radiator and 180 degree thermostat. Operates at about 190 when moving but goes up to near 240 when at idle and discharges thru radiator cap. Have installed multiple 12 inch fans on other Studebakers but would like to install on large fan (20 inch that will move a lot of air) on the Avanti. Area is about 25 inch by 21 inch. Has anyone installed one large fan, if so which one? ken, Deltaville Va

  2. Studebaker International sells the alternator ID tags. You'll probably have to have the appropriate characters stamped on it as I think that part is left blank. As far as the pulley goes, I don't know a specific source though a well equipped rebuild shop may have one or you might call Jon Myer or Dan Booth and see if they can help you.

    Called SI this morning and they are "looking" but it will take them awhile to recover from the trip, which is probably the case for most vendors. Most likely Myer has, will try next week, but I could use it this week Ken.

  3. Thought I had all the parts for the 63 R2, but I have the wrong pulley (2 belt) on the alternator. Looking for a single belt pulley, 1558003. Also several years ago I found replacement Prestolite tag but can't remember where; who sells them? existing tag is scratched up, Ken Deltaville, Va

  4. Thought I had all the parts for the 63 R2, but I have the wrong pulley (2 belt) on the alternator. Looking for a single belt pulley, 1558003. Also several years ago I found replacement Prestolite tag but can't remember where; who sells them? existing tag is scratched up, Ken Deltaville, Va

  5. I have a 1988 Avanti Convert and would also like to hear what you found out about the window sweeps

    Thanks :-)

    Avanti Window Sweeps

    Replacement of the window sweeps in the 89 Avanti convertible started under the assumption that, like many other parts, they were GM based. After several months of exchanging window sweeps (by mail) and carefully measured pictures (email) to various vendors of older GM parts it was determined that no suitable GM based window sweep would work. In fact no GM window sweep could be “modified” to look like the original (this assumes the original was still on the car). One vendor even said he understood that Avanti had the window sweep made and there is only one US manufacturer of window sweeps in the U.S. and they do not make a suitable Avanti sweep. Each vendor suggested using the “universal” sweep. The problem with that is they are only straight (and almost impossible to bend without cutting) and the stainless reveal is slightly narrower than my original and the end will not be finished off, like the original, instead the end will be “squeezed“ down as opposed to “rounded off“. But only one end of the sweep is visible with the other end under the vent window rubber.

    The alternative is to buy remade sweeps from Nostalgic Motors at $100 each and you have to send the old sweeps to use as a pattern. In my case I did not want to remove both sweeps at the same time and it would have been about $250, instead I used a “light weight” universal window sweep at $35 from Convertible Top Specialists . They said it could be bent on a jig, which is true, but bending distorted the angle of the reveal, so, reluctantly, three cuts were made in the “base”, and the base of the sweep was secured to the door at each end of the sweep. Then the sweep was gently pushed down towards the center and secured to the door, this was repeated from each end until meeting in the center. I did not want to cut the sweep for fear of not having a “smooth” appearance at the bend points by seeing a slight bend in the stainless reveal at each of the three cuts, which is more likely to happen if a heavier gauge material is used. Because this is lighter weight sweep one can not tell where the cuts were made and the reveal is quite smooth in appearance. As to the visible end of the stainless reveal not being “rounded” off, I do not see this as a problem because when the end was cut to the proper length for the door, the rubber underneath is so thin that it almost looks like it belongs that way. Just one point of caution; the stainless reveal is slightly narrower than the original so if your car has been repainted with reveal in place, the new reveal might show a thin strip of a different color.

    Now maybe you see why I said in my post that I learned more about sweeps than I every wanted to know. Ken - Deltaville, VA

  6. This is for AOAI member "Michael" re window sweeps as posted Oct 3. After learning far more than I was intereested in knowing about Avanti window sweeps, I finally came up with a pair for my 89 convertible. Let me know if you are still looking. Ken, Deltaville, Va

  7. Ken...

    It's been a few years, so inventory could be depleted, but I got a new set of parking brake cables from Nostalgic Motors.

    Which hood release cable do you need? I have spare cables that actually release the hood latches...are you in need of them or the cable from under the dash to the pivot under the hood? I bought a new one of those from Nostalgic as well, but the handle is not a match for the original. Since my car is modified anyway, I didn't care. You should be able to find that from Nostalgic as well. For all I know they may make them up as needed...not difficult if you have the correct tool.

    For the jack handle...do you need the folding handle or the scissors jack itself? Again...depending on how correct you want to be, you can find a universal scissors jack inexpensively. My car came without the jack and I simply bought a Goodwrench scissors jack at Wal Mart for less then $15.00. You can always buy one of those for use and save an original jack for show...you should be able to come up with a handle...swap meets, etc. That jack and handle wasn't exclusive to Studebakers and Avanti's.

    Bruce, thanks, I'll check with Nostalgic. I have both cables but the brake cable has some broken strands and I could not find any reference to the jack handle

    or hood release cable in the books. The hood release cable broke loose from the point where it joins the handle, maybe Nostalgic can fix it. Want to stay as close to original as possible. Have no idea what jack handle should look like but woud like an original. l Found all three original parts from ebay seller but have not heard from him (or her) for several weeks and have given up. Ken

  8. Did anyone answer you on the boot cover?? I have an 89 convertible. If you send me a note I will send you pictures of my cover, and how it attaches.

    I too need the outer window seal and am going to buy the Restoration Specialties item YMR255X Their catalog Page 14, and see how that works.

    Michael

    michael, pardon the delay, just checked my post, had a boot made using photo sent by a couple of owners. As to window sweeps, Restoration Specialists sent sample of their sweeps, did not match that well. When I was looking for a ready made boot, I came across Convertible Top Specialists, in Lakeland Fl, 800 272 2394, who said they were familiar with avanti and if i sent the original piece they think they can match. They also sell window sweps. Did not want to do this in middle of car show season but plan on doing it this winter. Ken, Deltavile, Va

    avanti

  9. Pulled motor and transmission out of my 63 4 speed, found back light switch control, but can not find any sign of a neurtal safety start switch. I assume their is such a switch but can not find it or any indication of it in the car or in the manual. Did find two connectors in area of the transmisison, one is for the back up light and the other may be to a missing safety switch, but again can not find any reference to it in the manual. Car had not been run since 1977 and has had atleast two motor changes before that. Assume it is not supposed to start in gear, but how is that prevented?

  10. Ken, any updates on your search for an Avanti?

    Thanks, John

    John, sorry for delay in reply, but had not checked this post for some time----to answer your question, yes, I found a 63 R2, 4 seed, in Harisonburg Va, right now I'm only trying to get the "storage strink" out of it, restoration will start this winter. It had been in stroage since 1977 and a couple dozen mice mistakenly thought it belonged to them. Ken, Deltaville, Va

  11. The 63 R2 that will be resored this winter, has good hog throughs, as seen from under the car. There is probably unseen rust inside. Has anyone cut holes from the top side (throught the glass floor) and injected rust inhibitor down into the hog throughs or is that even worth the effort? Ken, Deltaville, Va

    Added 6-22: Thanks to all for your input I will, most likely, do the same thinkg avanti81 did, only I use a chemical called "OSPHO". It's a rust inhibitor chemical that is used by waterman in my area to protect their gear and boat. I have used it on all of my cars or the last 16 years with good results, in fact when a buy new steel for body work the first thing I do is coat it with ospho. It's a chemical and you have to be very carful when using it. I have not yet started on restoration except to "get the stink" out of the car, it was in storage for about 35 years and several mice thought is belonged to them. Ken, Deltaville Va

    Addd 6-23: Driled four 2" holes in floor above hog througs, got about 1 cubic foot of mouse house stuffing, also drllled same hole in front of through immediately in back of front wheel, and small 1" hole in back of through thru metal to clean out the last 6" of through. vacuumed it out, and pressure washed. The last of the decades of storage stink is gone. Inside of throughs was in remarkable condition, no serious rust, will treat with OSPHO in a day or two. Has anyone heard of the inside of the through being undercoated at the factory, it looks like that was done and the left side botton of the through had weep holes in the front and back. Right side did not, but both sides are quite solid. ken, Deltaville, Va

  12. According to the radiator shop that has recored about 7 radiators for me over the past several years, the density of the fins is more important than the number of cores. The theory is that one does not want to allow the coolant to move too quickly and it's the fins that maximise cooling. more fins means more money and recore is approaching $500 with more dense fins. I have a 289 in 63 that still runs hot and is a candidate for electric fans, this was done on one other car and it can be driven in parade with no problem. Ken, Deltaville, Va

    ADDED: HAS ANYONE USED ANY OF THE ADDATIVES THAT ARE DESIGNED TO REDUCE TEMPERATURE????

  13. Thanks to both of you. The number (1558178) is inside the piston and it may be a casting number, in any case it is dished and would reduce compression,but I do not know how much. The alternative, R2 heads 1557582, are hard to find and when found are quite expensive. Ken

  14. I have an R2 avanti with an R1 engine that I want to restore to R2. Part of that process may be to get R2 heads (difficult to find) or use dish pistons to reduce compression, in that regard I found a box of good 1558178 dish pistons but I'm not sure what they are used in and if they would reduce compression sufficiently. Would these work? Ken, Deltaville,Va

    6-11: Found out today that piston 1558178 is a cast number and it is used in "standard" 289's. That sounds like low compression (9.5 or less) but question remains as to these pistons working with standard R1 heads and a supercharger. Ken

  15. I recently bought a 63 R2, 4 speed, that has undergone several changes over the years, and no longer has a correct R2 engine and have traced the original sale in 1963 to he present; it was once an R4, and it spent most, if not all, of its life in or around Harrisonburg, Va. A frame off will start this winter and the plan is to return it to bonafide R2 status if the parts can be found. At this point I need a salvageable R2 engine and its associated supecharger parts. The original engine is RS-1519, but there is little hope of finding it. Please let me know if you can help, also posted in Studebaker forum. Ken, Deltaville, Va

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