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Posts posted by wdaly

  1. 4 hours ago, studegary said:

    I am ranked in the fourth category (out of 14), Explorer I believe, and I have over 2K posts. 

    I see you ALL the time (with good insight) - what do you have to do to get a higher rating - is there a secret handshake..........?

    Me:  Joined in 2004 "Newbie" (1/14).  I won't live long enough to get anywhere near the Top!  At least I've got a '0' Reputation - so I've got that going for me.

  2. Did you replace All of the (front & rear) park/tail/turn/brake (2 front - 2 rear) bulbs with LED or just one of the rear (left or right) bulbs with LED?

    Did you convert the turn signals to prevent hyperflashing with load resistors or LED capable flasher?

    1.  With all lights Off - does the brake light work?

    2.  With headlights On - does the brake light work?  Do you notice any difference in brightness between brake or turn signal and tail light function?



  3. 17 minutes ago, JensenHealey said:

    Is this a separate panel that can actually be removed without breaking or destroying anything?

    I think it's called a 'package shelf'.  I don't know about the convertible but the coupe is what I'm talking about.  This shelf would normally be detached from the inside of the trunk.  You may very well have to do some damage (can be fixed/covered-up).  The speakers are also attached from inside the trunk.  If you could manage to disassemble the speaker from inside the car you would get close to the spring mechanism.  You could cut a large hole saw towards the end of the rear window in the center if the drill would actually clear the window ( if you cut closer to the back of the back seat back you would be near the gas tank!).  There is the consideration of a metal cross section supporting the entire shelf (you'll need to see a picture of it's location before making any holes but I would guess it's safe in the same rear area the speakers are mounted).  Finally - you may see a large gap between the shelf and the window near the speakers - I think the springs are close to that area and as mentioned earlier managing to spray lubricant liberally might work.

  4. Studegary mentioned, "Going in the trunk from the inside".  This reminded me,  I totally forgot about the giant piece (what's it called?) that fills in the space between the back of the seat and the rear of the rear window and normally has 2 speakers built-in.  There may be a way to get IN this way.  It would certainly be less destructive than my previous two thoughts.

  5. God Bless You my friend.  I'm not as smart as Studegary, Avanti83, Silverstude and others and I no longer have my '88 coupe to use for research - but I do have my memories.  Memories aside, Avanti kept changing the 'rules' and that doesn't help.  So here's what I'm thinking..........  You've got the old Studebaker (what I call), "scissors springs", and the springs are sprung!  This is assuming you do not have the hydraulic lifters.  How to open and get in?  Remove the rear seat back and remove the gas tank and cut thru the wall OR cut thru the bottom of the spare tire space (under the car) to reach inside the trunk area and GO FROM THERE.  Good Luck and we're all rooting for you!!!!  On the other hand, if you just happen to have a minature camera (as seen on TV for sink drains)...............

  6. Or, maybe it does.  My suggestions come from 29 yrs personal experience with an '88 coupe (including removing the entire dash to replace a heater core, replacing a rusted A-pillar and putting in a new windshield).  My first experience (of many) with a non-functioning hood was in Winter or colder periods.  The hood would not open at first - maybe the spring had problems, BUT the cable never failed!

  7. At the risk of sounding, well, weird - as a last ditch effort (starting now) try this for the '88 hood.  Pull on the hood release while at the Same Time someone else attempts to pull-up on one of the corners of the hood (start with drivers side).  You may want to consider a plastic pry tool like for interior trim removal (may want to tape the tool so as not to scratch anything).  Couldn't hurt!

  8. My $0.02:  Using my former '88 coupe as reference -

    Hood - Try removing Drivers side inner fender liner to see if you can get close to the release mechanism.

    Door - Get inside the car and go to the rear seat / you should see a small cut-out where the latch-lock is located on the door.  Take a small screwdriver and try and push the lock lever up (or in).  I can't remember everything, but I think you need to pull the inside door release handle while doing this.  Your problem is probably with the locking.

    I just thought of this.........  Regarding the Hood.  Before doing anything else, try this.  On the left and right corners nearest the windshield hit each corner hard with your closed fist - I think starting with the right corner first!

  9. Hmmmm.  You're not talking about the FRP manufacturer.  Only FRP (generic) things I can think of is the different requirements necessary for the GM frame, maybe design reductions in number of parts needed, or ????

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