Hogtrough

Was hoping that was possible. Might be able to do a dash pad replacement if it can be done from above

How did you anchor to the upper roll bar? Drill and tap for a bolt (since the stamped steel is fairly thick?)

I've installed retractable shoulder belts on every Studebaker I've owned- but this is my first Avanti and the belts will obviously have to be bolted to the roll bar. Normally I drop a threaded plate made for the purpose down inside the door pillar. Anyone done this on an Avanti, and if so, how?

So if I'm correct, the clips pictured hold the foam dash to the fiberglas buck- but the buck has to be removed because the vinyl must wrap around next to the windshield. Correct? Other question is, how is the instrument cluster removed? Screws accessed from underneath? How many? Apparently there is a 2002 article in the Avanti magazine outlining this, but I will have to order the back issue to get it.

I ran across these while looking at merchandise on the SI site. Have not removed a dash yet but assumed the top of the dash was helf by screws and the bottom by rivets, based on various posts I've run across. Where are these clips used? Also, are the dash mounting screws accessed from top or bottom?

They were Masonite

Guess I will have to toss the old one. The large front half is very close to usable if dyed, only a small portion damaged. But based on what I paid to have the new one shipped, wouldn't be worth it to anyone to have it sent to them, even if I gave it away

So should the headliner be painted fawn? From the vendor, it's white. Padded vinyl piece at right is already done, from fabric roll I bought (supposedly Elk) .

I'm wondering if I have Fawn and Elk confused (I joined the Avanti world only a month ago). My dash pad is distinctly tan, all the vinyl is beige. I bought a can of "Fawn" paint that seems to be closer to dash pad color. Can you tell me what is Fawn and what is Elk in this photo? I'm seeing three or more colors here.

My '63 (produced around May of that year) has a black vinyl covered, padded roll bar cover. The dash padding is Fawn, the rest of the interior is beige (I assume that is Elk?). Was a vendor selling black padded covers at some point? Shouldn't the cover in this car be Elk padded vinyl? I already have a roll of it, just want to be sure it would be correct

Some fascinating reading here at https://studebaker-info.org/Avanti/Lamberti/lamberti18Feb1963.html . In house discussions about the car line, this link is just February, you can look at any month you want (thanks to Richard Quinn). I found it humorous that the powers that be thought Studebaker needed some teenage boys at the Chicago car show to answer questions, because the Plymouth guys did!

Probably somewhere between 1 and 2. My paint and body guy is capable of show level work at a down to earth price, as he showed me on my '54 Conestoga (see hood photo). So the car will be a very nice driver without imperfections noticeable to the average show goer (but with some interior items that won't necessarily pass muster with a national meet judge). Not bought as an investment, but at this point it's looking like a good buy.

I ended up ordering the Turner kit, which I believe uses GM calipers. Since I'm not going for 100% originality it seemed like a logical upgrade. After looking over the kit and its instructions and reading about some of the fine adjustments required for the the OEM brakes, glad I did. I just want something that is up to date and works well.

I like to put a little ink on the two mounting posts and touch it to the area so it tells me exactly where to drill

So far this one smells fine and the carpets will dry out quickly, only a small portion got damp. I found a couple of large rolls of stick on roof underlayment at Lowes for a giveaway price. It's exactly the same thing as Dynamat and works well.

Digging into my '63 Avanti project . The car has been in the weather for about 2 years and carpets are damp. Started pulling the carpets and spare tire to deal with typical rust and was surprised to learn the car is fiberglas in those areas too (my only prior experience with 'glas bodies was with a VW dune buggy which of course had a steel floor pan). So it looks like I will have less to deal with on the inside than I thought. I may still do the usual Dynamat treatment to quiet things down

I don't require that it be as flexible as the original, but if you believe Nostalgic, theirs is much easier to install than the competitors. Not sure if that alone is worth the premium price

That was the point of my question. Will stopping ability with no booster be greater with modern Turner brakes than with Dunlop? If not, no point in replacing them, as they were replaced during a restoration about 20 years ago and could be reconditioned. I seldom drive in steep downhill conditions where the more modern brakes would make a difference

I know many 60's cars had a build sheet left somewhere on the car at the factory in locations like under the rear seat springs. How about Avanti? Did Studebaker put a build sheet anywhere on the car?

I read somewhere that the stock disc brake setup with single master is impossible to stop if the booster goes out. If I install a Turner conversion with their dual master, will there be any hope of stopping the car with no booster? Also, is there a popular hot rodders booster/dual master that can be retrofit to the Avanti (like this one)?

I'm probably going to end up with a 3EE, since I can get one at Oreilly for $145. It's what came in the car, and will be a great conversation piece when you pop the hood a show! Only problem will be finding one with a current date code, so far I'm finding two year old ones at Tractor Supply, etc

Didn't find any rust out on the car. Did find some surface rust here and there (including windshield frame) which will be easy enough to fix.

So I went to GA, inspected the car and bought it. Here's a rundown of what I found: Pros: Car has a good body and solid frame. Garaged up until two years ago. Hog troughs are good, floor and trunk pans good. Seat covers and carpets have been replaced. Engine and transmission completely rebuilt in 2005, fully documented with receipts, all parts secured from Meyers Studebaker/Avanti. Only 7000 miles driven since. Brake and other work done at same time. Zero play in rear axle, u joints. Paint job probably 30 years old, can be buffed to look nice, no serious issues found in bodywork. Drivers door closes like new, passenger door doesn't but should be adjustable. Car came with the original owners manual and also the accessory book. Cons: All interior items except those replaced in '05 are suffering from heat and moisture damage from excessive GA humidity. Two years outside under a cover have taken their tole. Headliner, package shelf, dash cover and assorted vinyl pieces need replacing. Bezels of gauges slightly rusted. Door panels can be sorted out. A/C will need lots of attention. Tires are 15 years old. Even though engine had a full rebuild, the moisture caused an electrical glitch and no power was going anywhere from the fresh battery I put it. Turn key and no gauge movement, no ignition, no start. I was able to slowly turn the engine using a remote start switch. Will need a full brake job including booster, but due to the work done in 05 many parts will be reusable. I can go two directions on this car: I can get the car mechanically reliable and cosmetically acceptable for a few months labor and a few thousand dollars and drive as is with a total investment (including car) of about 15K I can have the car stripped and painted, replace the headliner, dash pad , gauges and package shelf, refurbish the steering wheel, fix the A/C and electrical issues, rebuild the brakes, replace air cleaner cover and valve covers, new tires, etc. and have a car that would present well at a national event with total investment (including car) of about 25K. This is only because I have a body/paint guy who does great work and is very reasonable (hard to find these days). I would do all mechanical and interior work. Which direction would you go? ( I posted the above on a FB group and got a lot of responses saying find another car. Maybe they think I paid more for the car than I did? Maybe they think humidity automatically means rust bucket? Anyway, I respectfully disagree)

Just curious if anyone here has bought and installed a Studebaker International dash pad, which is about half the price of the main competitor. I know the competitor has taken great pains to get a good fit, but how about the SI pad?

I was a bit concerned about soaked carpets/trapped water rust since the car has sat outside for two years- but looked on Google streetview and saw at that point the car had a cover. It was garaged and rarely driven before that , so is more likely suffering from the usual maladies of seized brake cylinders, stale gas, etc.