Hogtrough

So I went to GA, inspected the car and bought it. Here's a rundown of what I found: Pros: Car has a good body and solid frame. Garaged up until two years ago. Hog troughs are good, floor and trunk pans good. Seat covers and carpets have been replaced. Engine and transmission completely rebuilt in 2005, fully documented with receipts, all parts secured from Meyers Studebaker/Avanti. Only 7000 miles driven since. Brake and other work done at same time. Zero play in rear axle, u joints. Paint job probably 30 years old, can be buffed to look nice, no serious issues found in bodywork. Drivers door closes like new, passenger door doesn't but should be adjustable. Car came with the original owners manual and also the accessory book. Cons: All interior items except those replaced in '05 are suffering from heat and moisture damage from excessive GA humidity. Two years outside under a cover have taken their tole. Headliner, package shelf, dash cover and assorted vinyl pieces need replacing. Bezels of gauges slightly rusted. Door panels can be sorted out. A/C will need lots of attention. Tires are 15 years old. Even though engine had a full rebuild, the moisture caused an electrical glitch and no power was going anywhere from the fresh battery I put it. Turn key and no gauge movement, no ignition, no start. I was able to slowly turn the engine using a remote start switch. Will need a full brake job including booster, but due to the work done in 05 many parts will be reusable. I can go two directions on this car: I can get the car mechanically reliable and cosmetically acceptable for a few months labor and a few thousand dollars and drive as is with a total investment (including car) of about 15K I can have the car stripped and painted, replace the headliner, dash pad , gauges and package shelf, refurbish the steering wheel, fix the A/C and electrical issues, rebuild the brakes, replace air cleaner cover and valve covers, new tires, etc. and have a car that would present well at a national event with total investment (including car) of about 25K. This is only because I have a body/paint guy who does great work and is very reasonable (hard to find these days). I would do all mechanical and interior work. Which direction would you go? ( I posted the above on a FB group and got a lot of responses saying find another car. Maybe they think I paid more for the car than I did? Maybe they think humidity automatically means rust bucket? Anyway, I respectfully disagree)

Just curious if anyone here has bought and installed a Studebaker International dash pad, which is about half the price of the main competitor. I know the competitor has taken great pains to get a good fit, but how about the SI pad?

I was a bit concerned about soaked carpets/trapped water rust since the car has sat outside for two years- but looked on Google streetview and saw at that point the car had a cover. It was garaged and rarely driven before that , so is more likely suffering from the usual maladies of seized brake cylinders, stale gas, etc.

I was a classic car appraiser for years but am new to Avanti (but not to Studebaker). I have a list of things I intend to look at while looking over a '63 R1 , estate situation, has been sitting for a couple of years (not sure I will be able to drive it, may be no brakes). . Let me know what you would add to the list. (Added are what I found when actually doing the check) Wiggle tire when jacked up to check A frame bushings, king pins, steering. Everything seems tight except steering center link may have play. Check for leaks at rear trans seal and front pinion seal Both appear dry Verify engine number Somehow forgot to do this Verify serial number same as on title (frame near trans dipstick) Correct serial number Cracking at front spring pocket starting at river going at backside of front crossmember No cracking noted Rusty tubular rear crossmember No rust here Door alignment/hinge issues. Window operation Windows operate well. Driver door shuts like new. Passenger door needs slight adjustment Hood hinge cracks None noted Inspect hog troughs No rust through, appear solid Check frame rails, especially just in front of rear axle Frame rails good Gas tank condition Not under car as usual, unable to check Start and run engine, check for unusual noises, smoke. Check trans goes into Drive and Reverse Unable to start engine. No power making it from battery to ignition switch

Old thread, I know...but just wondered how difficult it is to "gut" the battery? Any conventional Optima or other batteries that might fit inside it?